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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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On 9/2/2020 at 6:42 PM, EliTR6 said:

 

159906849298289.jpg

Congratulations to you and your wife! Smashing news! Actually, the baby has already been in the TR (see above).

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4 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks everyone! Tired but happy here

Thanks for showing your private happiness. Unspeakable things, but your expression says them all. Gorgeous! The other Eli when he is not covered in TR grease, wielding an AF spanner, under his 3! :)

Edited by DavidBee
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Thanks all. Will had his first night at home which means that Dad didn't get much sleep at all 

I took the Tr into work, overdrive seemed to be sticking on. It sometimes wouldn't engage and then wouldn't disengage. 

Ignition off, I can hear the solenoid click in sharply but it makes a bit of a clatter when I switch it off. 

I filled it with the correct amount of penrite 40 only 100mi ago. I've swapped the relay, issue is still there.

I don't think it's the (new) switch or the wiring on that side as I added a warning light that is powered by the output from the relay to the solenoid. Switch off, light off. 

Any ideas? Cheers 

 

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Its definitely the switch.

Are they easy to take apart? 

It was the last one in stock so there's not much points waiting months for a replacement. 

Lucky I fitted the warning light! 

Feels like the od works faster when I accelerate harder. Is it a case of more power builds up the pressure faster? 

Edited by EliTR6
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Not sure if you have the early pull switch, or the correct large toggle switch. the latter comes apart easily with a screwdriver, the pull switch needs the metal casing to be prised back from the plastic to get it open.

Bob.

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3 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Not sure if you have the early pull switch, or the correct large toggle switch. the latter comes apart easily with a screwdriver, the pull switch needs the metal casing to be prised back from the plastic to get it open.

Bob.

Hi. It's the toggle egg-shaped switch. Thanks Bob 

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2 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

Hi. It's the toggle egg-shaped switch. Thanks Bob 

They have two small screws on the side, to reveal the works. When engaging and disengaging overdrive always keep your foot down as that makes for seamless changes and is better for the drive train.

Stuart.

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55 minutes ago, stuart said:

They have two small screws on the side, to reveal the works. When engaging and disengaging overdrive always keep your foot down as that makes for seamless changes and is better for the drive train.

Stuart.

Thanks. I always lift off the throttle slightly when engaging (trailing throttle?) and accelerate harder when switching out of od so rpm and road speed match up. No harsh jolts so far 

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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks. I always lift off the throttle slightly when engaging (trailing throttle?) and accelerate harder when switching out of od so rpm and road speed match up. No harsh jolts so far 

Never throttle off going either way you need the extra for both up and down changes. Makes the O/drive last longer

Stuart.

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7 hours ago, Lebro said:

Looks like the moving arm is not moving quite far enough, have you fixed it ?

Bob.

Not yet. I guess I'll have to file a bit off to give it more travel. 

I'm going to call the supplier today to see what they can do. Shouldn't happen on a 60eur switch. 

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21 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Thanks Peter. I'll have a play with the switch this weekend. 

More worryingly, od on the new box isn't engaging 9 times out of 10 when warm. Discovered this on my first proper drive with it yesterday. A 60mi round trip.

Engine off, ignition on, the solenoid clicks in and out on all 3 gears, all A ok.

When driving od works for the first couple of miles then doesn't engage at all. There's no change in road speed or rpm at all. 

Just checked the oil (dynolite gear 40) and it was missing a few ml to get it to the level but it is leaking more than I would expect from a newly rebuilt unit. I've done 180mi since fitting it. I've just wiped it down underneath and 15min later there's a 2" puddle of oil underneath. 

When od does work, it's nice and smooth. This feels like a separate issue to the switch. 

Edited by EliTR6
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Forgot to add, twice when testing the solenoid engine off I've heard a noise like an electric pump and the car moved slightly 

I'll order the special spanner to remove the brass plug and check the filter.

Edited by EliTR6
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