Lebro Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 Heavy wire not needed for a voltmeter. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 3 hours ago, Lebro said: Heavy wire not needed for a voltmeter. Bob Thanks. The voltmeter works! I'll swap in a proper looking chrome one later on. Lights ! Camera! Zero wiper action Bob, you're leds are up and running and looking great. All 3 light up at the rear and front sidelights and indicators all work as they should. But the wiper motor (2 speed with Park) that worked fine before is now refusing to budge. Getting 12v into both live feeds and the earth is good. I even tried wiring the earth straight to the battery but still nothing happens. It worked fine before. Any ideas? The fuel gauge looks like its working again too. Tank is almost empty so we'll see after a full up but the needle moves and holds steady. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 Be careful with trying wiring changes on the wiper motor, it can get damaged. I don't have any knowledge about the 2 speed wiring, but several peep on here do, so wait for a reply before doing any more tests. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) Sounds like you have it wired wrongly. There is only one 12 v feed - the green wire - and this is a permanent feed, not switched. Red/green and brown/green are slow and fast speeds respectively and should be connected to earth by the switch BUT.... The switch operation is a bit unusual. Off is with neither wire connected to earth, which allows the motor to self-park. Fast is with only the brown/green earthed. Slow is with BOTH wires earthed. DO NOT just earth red/green alone as this may burn out the field resistor. AlanT is the expert on wiper motors and produced a screed on this I think, including details of connections to the switch. Edited May 22, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) 20 minutes ago, RobH said: Sounds like you have it wired wrongly. There is only one 12 v feed - the green wire - and this is a permanent feed, not switched. Red/green and brown/green are slow and fast speeds respectively and should be connected to earth by the switch BUT.... The switch operation is a bit unusual. Off is with neither wire connected to earth, which allows the motor to self-park. Fast is with only the brown/green earthed. Slow is with BOTH wires earthed. DO NOT just earth red/green alone as this may burn out the field resistor. AlanT is the expert on wiper motors and produced a screed on this I think, including details of connections to the switch. Thanks Rob. I wired it up identically to how it was before. I didn't have a working ammeter, fuel gauge or indicator warning light before starting the rewire. It's party time! Would running the horns off their own fuse from the fusebox be OK? That means they're taking power from the ignition switch, not straight from the control box / battery. It's neater this way. Thanks for the advice everyone! Edited May 22, 2020 by EliTR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 Thats not a 2 speed wiper motor its a single speed one. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 9 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: Thanks Rob. I wired it up identically to how it was before. I didn't have a working ammeter, fuel gauge or indicator warning light before starting the rewire. It's party time! Would running the horns off their own fuse from the fusebox be OK? That means they're taking power from the ignition switch, not straight from the control box / battery. It's neater this way. Thanks for the advice everyone! For my money that looks like a single speed self parking wiper motor as it has only two wire connections plus an earth. Meaning the wires at the motor are.... Single green is fused live, Single green/black goes to the dash switch which goes to earth when operated. Single black is earth only. Unless you have a loom for non parking CRT wiper motor then the fused power goes to the wiper switch, onto the wiper motor, and the second terminal at the motor goes to earth. Study these two diagrams:- TR2/3 has a CRT non self parking wiper motor. (two grub screw electrical connections only) TR3A/3B/TR4 has a single speed self parking wiper motor. ( two electrical connections eithe grub screw of Lucar plus an earth under one of the main body screws. TR4A has a two speed self parking wiper motor ( the motor will originally have 3 wires coming out of it plus an external earthing screw terminal. Cheers Peter W PS Where did your Lucar terminal crimpers come from? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 I would not run the horns from the fused ignition feed, they have their own fuse already in the original fuse box, & that comes direct from the battery (via the starter solenoid). Reason is they draw a lot of current, & could disrupt the ignition, also the gauge of wire may not be suitable. here are some wiring diagrams: Wiring TR 2-4a.pdf Your wiper wiring should be the same as is shown for the TR4. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 3 hours ago, Lebro said: I would not run the horns from the fused ignition feed, they have their own fuse already in the original fuse box, & that comes direct from the battery (via the starter solenoid). Reason is they draw a lot of current, & could disrupt the ignition, also the gauge of wire may not be suitable. here are some wiring diagrams: Wiring TR 2-4a.pdf 262.85 kB · 4 downloads Your wiper wiring should be the same as is shown for the TR4. Bob. Thanks Bob I'll add a wire from the 4 way connector that replaces the control box to the fusebox for the horns Plan for tomorrow is to rig up at least the relay for the fan, refit alternator and carbs and start the old girl. Horns, lights and wipers will wait! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 Good luck. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 1 hour ago, EliTR6 said: Plan for tomorrow is... Since you have the 4 into 1 extractor manifold, and your inlet manifold is off, wouldn't it be a good opportunity to seize for fitting an aluminium heat shield? Then cooler under bonnet air etc. etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 (edited) 8 hours ago, DavidBee said: Since you have the 4 into 1 extractor manifold, and your inlet manifold is off, wouldn't it be a good opportunity to seize for fitting an aluminium heat shield? Then cooler under bonnet air etc. etc. For the carbs you mean? Also on the wish list... 14 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: PS Where did your Lucar terminal crimpers come from? Peter, I bought it from a French website, classic auto elec. 50eur for a ratchet crimp tool (for non insulated terminals). I think the brand was silver line. I've been thinking about the wipers. The black and green wire I hooked up to terminal 1 supplies 12v from the switch which in turn gets it from the fuel gauge. But it should be a switched earth, not a live feed. Like so : I need to earth the other side of the switch and will find another use for the redunandant 12v wire from the +be of the gauge. Edited May 23, 2020 by EliTR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 (edited) Given all this upgrading, the other mod people used to do — me included — sensible, but not very popular, is replacing the ineffective wiper arms and blades with Mini Minor style spring-loaded blades and arms. I've done that. They work better and look nice. Edited May 23, 2020 by DavidBee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 1 hour ago, EliTR6 said: For the carbs you mean? Also on the wish list... Peter, I bought it from a French website, classic auto elec. 50eur for a ratchet crimp tool (for non insulated terminals). I think the brand was silver line. I've been thinking about the wipers. The black and green wire I hooked up to terminal 1 supplies 12v from the switch which in turn gets it from the fuel gauge. But it should be a switched earth, not a live feed. Like so : I need to earth the other side of the switch and will find another use for the redunandant 12v wire from the +be of the gauge. Yes that 2nd diagram is correct for the type of motor you are using. You need to switch to earth a continuously live fed wiper motor, not switch the power feed to the motor. The continuous power feed is also required to make the rotary wiper of the motor's integral park switch work. Which side of the car is your brake light switch fitted? That might be the next challenge. Thanks for the info on the crimping pliers. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 Wipers are working! Brake light switch was sorted yesterday. Spent ages straining to fit the connectors on from above and below before realising that access is quite easy from the side if you turn the wheel on full lock! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 Before And after! Could be neater but there really isn't much real estate to work with. I've got a couple of spare terminals I could run an accessory socket off too My manual override and relay for the fan. It's a temporary installation until I get a second fusebox to power the relays for the lights and fan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 Horns are back up! Going to tackle the alternator now. All being well carbs and linkage this afternoon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 Am I supposed to cut off the threaded ends of the rose joints? One of them is acting as a restrictor! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 28 minutes ago, EliTR6 said: Am I supposed to cut off the threaded ends of the rose joints? One of them is acting as a restrictor! I would cut off the restricting one, the others could do with a locknut on by the looks of it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 +1, or (thinking outside of box) put a plain nut on the offending part before threading it into the bellcrank, & lock it in position with the end of the stud flush with bell crank. ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 1 hour ago, stuart said: I would cut off the restricting one, the others could do with a locknut on by the looks of it. Stuart. 1 hour ago, Lebro said: +1, or (thinking outside of box) put a plain nut on the offending part before threading it into the bellcrank, & lock it in position with the end of the stud flush with bell crank. ? Bob. Thanks Stuart and Bob. I'll have a crack at it tomorrow. Time to clock off I got her started and then realised I had forgotten to connect the oil pressure gauge! Luckily she had only just started turning over. Car is running very fast even with throttle fully closed. Must be an air leak somewhere. I was freaked out by smoke billowing put from underneath but it's probably just bilt hamber wax that found it's way onto the exhaust Choke is very stiff, almost inoperable. I'm not going to be driving anywhere this weekend! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 The carbs will take a bit of setting up. First check the centering of the jets, then wind tje jets down to the nominal starting position (check manual) make sure the chokes are not pulling the jets down. Start with the throttle linkage loose. & use the throttle stop screws to get an even "suck" from both carbs consistent with the idle speed you want. Check ignition timing. Adjust jet heights to get even running, reset the throttle stops. When happy it's ticking over evenly with even "suck" from carbs, then tighten up the throttle linkage leaving a small amount of free play before the linkage starts to open the butterflies. Having done all that you can play with the choke linkage, getting an even pull down on both carbs, & a sensible choke knob position ( 1st click just raise the revs a bit, 2nd click drop the jets slightly etc. There two more adjusters to set the amount of throttle advance the choke gives. It's a circular process ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 Bob, you're a star! Thanks for all the advice A quick video before tidying up and moving her back into the garage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 @stuart I measured the top of the stanchions to the bottom edge of the boot lid. Pretty much identical. Thanks for the tip Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 Interesting that your choke cable goes to the front carb. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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