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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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To add to above, I did some tests on original TR3 springs (with the third exhaust spring removed), & new TR4A springs, & there was nothing to choose between them strength wise. So I used my originals without the third spring. The extra spring was only required because  the 2's & 3's started off with larger diameter stems on the exhaust valves, which made them heavier, & so need the stronger spring to avoid valve bounce. Later cars use the same size stems as for the inlet valve, so do not need the same strength.

Bob

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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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Thanks all for the replies 

Yes, mild piper cam according to the invoices that came with the car and no ticking until last year. The engine rebuild was before my ownership so I don't know much about it. 

I can't make out whether there's a 3rd spring fitted 

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Might be best to wait for new pushrods and see if this cures it but I'm concerned as to why it happened in the first place 

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13 minutes ago, Charlie D said:

Is it my imagination or are the outer spring coils much tighter at the bottom?

Is that normal?

Charlie.

I believe so and yes I’m pretty sure the tighter coils should be at the bottom. 

Rgds Ian

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Thanks for the replys Ian and Bob

Something else that I didn't do when I rebuilt my engine.

Still, not as bad as the mistake I made by putting half my piston rings in upside down !

Charlie.

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2 hours ago, stuart said:

Looks like 3 springs to me when blown up.

Stuart.

I can't see a 3rd spring, it's hard when you don't know exactly what you're looking for! 

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Time to call it a day, more head work to come and not just on the TR... 

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23 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

 I have a couple of spare push rods I could post if you are stuck.

Peter W

Thanks for the offer Peter but it's a nightmare posting parts between the UK and France. 

Are the new readily available pushrods of acceptable quality? 

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49 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks for the offer Peter but it's a nightmare posting parts between the UK and France. 

Are the new readily available pushrods of acceptable quality? 

Not that bad if the packet is small enough .

Stuart.

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@Lebrosaves the day again!

He sorted me out with an set of pushrods and I fitted them this afternoon, set them clearances to 0.015 on both inlet and exhaust and took the car for a short spin. It sounds quieter but I didn't have time to take the car for a proper run and get it fully warmed up. 

Thanks again @Lebro

 

Ps : here's how it sounded with the old pushrods (bonnet up though)

 

Edited by EliTR6
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1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said:

Eli,

You need to give the copper pipe across the back of the engine bay a bit more support. You run the risk of it fatigue cracking if you leave it like that.

Rgds Ian

Hi Ian

Thanks

It looks scary in the video but it's actually a brown electrical wire from the alternator to my 2nd fusebox ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I waved goodbye to the landy today, it had become too valuable to sit in a corner of the shed most of the year and too costly to use often. I'm sure I'll be back in a series one day but for now I'm happy to have a brace of vehicles with (slightly) higher mpg for regular use!

However I made the most of being at my folks place to take the TR out for a quick spin and the engine is definitely quieter thanks to Bob's pushrods.

 

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28 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

 

However I made the most of being at my folks place to take the TR out for a quick spin and the engine is definitely quieter thanks to Bob's pushrods.

 

 

 

That's interesting as i have been watching your progress with this. I have a 4 with the same issue and have not been able to quieten it down . Changed complete rocker shaft and tappets . Sure the noise is at the top end and not followers.

Roy

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Wow, almost two years since my last post... The TR has seen very little use the past couple of years apart from the odd local trip with young Will. Two young kids and a vintage Alvis all competing for attention have meant the TR bring sidelined too often. 

Nonetheless I thought I would spend a few evenings greasing the TR and giving the whole car a proper check over so she's ready for spring. 

I found a disintegrated gaiter on the front ball joint and more worryingly are leaking rear wheel cylinder. 

I repainted and waxed the underneath almost 4 years ago when I bought the car and it all looks good apart from where the floors flexing has broken away the paint and I can see some rust.

Overall it's very solid but the front suspension could your with an overhaul and the rear springs need oiling.

I can't access the grease nipple at the front of the prop and there's no hole in the tunnel. I was going to drill in the top center of the gearbox tunnel and use a rubber bung to seal the hole once I'm done. Where is it usually placed? Thanks 

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