Jump to content

Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


Recommended Posts

30 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said:

Stuart,

How do you attach the hoses if you have the heater mounted that close to the back of the battery box.  Do you route them through the box or do you have some very tight right angle connectors?

Rgds Ian

The shaped heater hoses that are correctly supplied for the standard heater have enough of a right angle to cope perfectly well, just fit them first before mounting the heater. Doing it that way you have a huge amount of room behind the dash for instrument wiring and the choke cable also doesnt have to bend round as it does with the original heater.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 1.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

Posted Images

On 3/3/2021 at 12:08 PM, stuart said:

It doesnt really have to be but obviously if youve no air coming in all your doing is recycling whats in the car, I realise thats academic with an open top car but Ive found that airflow through the matrix helps if you have hood and sidescreens in place for de-misting.

This picture of they way we fit them has been posted before Im sure.

Stuart.

1937339779_011(2).thumb.JPG.94ca365d70b2ae8e071e0e43905560ce.JPG

I'm going to be lazy and leave it as is for now. Spring is here and we're on lockdown on weekends anyway...

Question : do both wheels and drums have to be off to measure the rear end float? I tried with the dial gauge on both the hub and the backing plate but couldn't find any play moving it by hand. Use a lever next time? 

20210306-160008.jpg

 

20210306-151711.jpg

I used a rivet to secure the ignition key to a cheaper key fob. No more catching my knuckles when changing gear! 

 

Edited by EliTR6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes axle off the ground total reading is across the car.  Use a lever to fully push in either direction.

Push from left with dial on right.  
Set zero when fully pushed from left.  

Push from right and read the dial measurement 

Nice job with the key.

I fitted a shortened TR5 gearstick which moves the knob rearward about 2 inches, hence the keys are not so intrusive when gear changing.   Took me a while to work out what gear the car was in after 30 years with standard straight stick.

Cheers

Peter W

Link to post
Share on other sites

Peter Wigglesworth has given you the same clear explanation as he gave me when I went through this exercise a year ago. Use a pry bar (pied de biche) to force things a bit, you’re then imitating the movement of the rear axle on cornering hard.
To answer your question, with wheels and drums off you can get a good/better purchase on the hubs.

james

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yes axle off the ground total reading is across the car.  Use a lever to fully push in either direction.

Push from left with dial on right.  
Set zero when fully pushed from left.  

Push from right and read the dial measurement 

Nice job with the key.

I fitted a shortened TR5 gearstick which moves the knob rearward about 2 inches, hence the keys are not so intrusive when gear changing.   Took me a while to work out what gear the car was in after 30 years with standard straight stick.

Cheers

Peter W

 

1 hour ago, james christie said:

Peter Wigglesworth has given you the same clear explanation as he gave me when I went through this exercise a year ago. Use a pry bar (pied de biche) to force things a bit, you’re then imitating the movement of the rear axle on cornering hard.
To answer your question, with wheels and drums off you can get a good/better purchase on the hubs.

james

Thanks Peter and James

I'll have another go tomorrow

Cheers

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've not had much time for spannering recently. It's taken me a week to change the oil after I couldn't remove the old filter. I've moved from a long to a short filter type. Took a good 20 seconds or so of cranking with the plugs out for the pressure to build up again. Always a scary moment for me. 

Plugs were fairly black. Not really at surprise given lots of short trips with choke in the cold and I tend to set the cars up a bit rich anyway. Cleaned the plugs, set gaps for 0.025" (they were at 0.035-0.040, running petronix leccy ignition) and am now negotiating time to adjust the d/s sidescreen this afternoon. 

Also in the process of changing the front sprocket on the bike, learning a lot! 

PXL-20210314-074707977.jpg

 

Edited by EliTR6
Link to post
Share on other sites

If those plugs are in the same order they came out of the car, ie the browny coloured plug being No1 cylinder, then I suspect its just a little weak on the front carb. No2 plug not quite so white, but no 2 cylinder will tend to scavenge a bit from the back carb due to the balance pipe on the inlet manifold. If it were mine I would try just one flat richer on the front carby jet nut to even things out a bit.

Ralph 

Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

If those plugs are in the same order they came out of the car, ie the browny coloured plug being No1 cylinder, then I suspect its just a little weak on the front carb. No2 plug not quite so white, but no 2 cylinder will tend to scavenge a bit from the back carb due to the balance pipe on the inlet manifold. If it were mine I would try just one flat richer on the front carby jet nut to even things out a bit.

Ralph 

Hi Ralph 

Thanks. They're back to front of course (no 4 on left) 

Will give the rear carb an extra flat 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've just realised that I've driven 2k miles since buying my 3 a year ago

Not bad considering it's either been on axles stands or in lockdown most of the past 12 months 

Edited by EliTR6
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I've been busy with the bike the past few weeks. Took the gearbox apart and put it back a few times but I'm still having trouble selecting gears. It's been a great learning experience, albeit an often frustrating one 

Finally got around to replacing the starter solenoid 

The old one was falling apart and I could only start it from cold using the shunt button at the back. This little guy fell out as I removed the solenoid. 

PXL-20210410-113810808.jpg

I also decided to try to figure out what wasn't wrong with the fuel gauge sender. The gauge itself works fine, jumps straight to full when I remove the wire from the sender. But it never reads more than 1/4 full even though the tank is full to the brim. 

The PO had fitted a fancy aluminium tank and looking inside and checking for travel with a bent coat hanger I could make out that the baffle plates won't allow the float to rise up. Still, better to have a correct reading on the last 1/4 tank than the first. 

I then wasted forever making a gasket as there wasn't one on the car and I couldn't remember if I had ordered making new ones. It was a fun experience, only slightly dampened by finding two brand new gaskets whilst putting everything away! 

PXL-20210410-102846437.jpg

 

And because I never learn, this beauty is on its way to me. Been stored for a few years so needs a gentle recommissioning. 

NORTON-850-COMMANDO-300-870-POJECT-01.jp

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all 

Could poor fuel be causing this hesitation under acceleration? I've had this fuel in the tank for a couple of weeks but just noticed the issue yesterday. Haven't touched anything else. 

I'll check rotor, dizzy, plugs and coil as soon as I get a chance but all were in good order just a few weeks ago. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by EliTR6
Link to post
Share on other sites

On my 3A, I have noticed over the last year that if the fuel (98octane brew) is more than 2/3 weeks old it coughs, splutters and farts for about 10km before clearing.

Have the refineries changed the format of petrol?

With the very limited use of the car nowadays, I only half fill the tank in an effort to maintain the stuff as fresh as practical

james

Link to post
Share on other sites

i had that at my last competition and it cleared itself this was on fresh shell v power and new plugs

i suspect a but of muck in the fuel 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks chaps! 

Tuesdays I take care of the boy in the afternoons. Not easy juggling work calls and a baby but I'm enjoying every minute of it. 

Put him to bed and rushed down to the garage. 

The dash pot plunger had unscrewed itself! Topped both carbs up with 20w50 we'll see how she runs tomorrow 

PXL-20210427-180635851.jpg

 

Guess who regrets buying a cheap and cheerful clutch master cylinder... Already leaking :wacko:

PXL-20210427-181516642.jpg

 

I'll clean up the ones I took off the car and see if they're salvageable 

PXL-20210427-181839064.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Past Parts are the best and have sorted out my two master cylinders and one slave. If you have problems with EU regs. for posting etc. I am sure someone here will,be able to help.

The new ones are often made in China and they can not get it right. They also make my laptop which does work very well. It must be the volume of orders and quality control ??

Good luck

Richard & B

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, 2long said:

I have had that dash pot plunger unscrew itself as well.  Why the heck would it do that?

 

Dan

+1,   unless I forgot to tighten it. At least with the brass items you can spanner them on.

Ralph

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 Metro Turbo SU Carb had a groove around the dash pot exterior to allow a clamp to retain the dash-pot damper

The use of a spanner on the brass damper caps used to end up in tears as the thread would tear out the dash pot. 

Caused by the 'just a bit more should do it' brigade.

Peter W

 

image.png.fd3383c44302600c033cbc860d6634c6.png

image.png.da0bd9bed1f5788e1170f293153e0727.png

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.