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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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Temperatures are still below zero here. Thought I would be brave and take the TR into work this morning but the starter solenoid wouldn't click into action unless I used the button to shunt it directly. Tried again this afternoon and after a lumpy start and 5mins of rough running the fuel flow finally cleared up and I took the dog out for a spin.

I have never bothered wiring the heater up but I tested the motor this afternoon. It made one hell of a racket so Iit was just the excuse I was looking for to order one of the fancy new heaters from T7Designs Stuart and others have been enthusiastic about. The car is pretty much my daily driver so might as well not risk freezing to death everytime I take it out!

I've got lots of little jobs to fix now the big stuff is out of the way. I'm going to enjoy this!

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Just now, roy53 said:

You don't need a heater 

you go surfing .:blink:

Haven't been out for at least a couple of months. It's way too cold! Even my best mate who is surfing mad can't stand it out there for more than 20min right now. There are always thicker wetsuits but I just can't be arsed :)

Does anyone know the size of the gearbox filler plug please? I really should order an Allen key version 

Thanks 

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26 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Temperatures are still below zero here. Thought I would be brave and take the TR into work this morning but the starter solenoid wouldn't click into action unless I used the button to shunt it directly. Tried again this afternoon and after a lumpy start and 5mins of rough running the fuel flow finally cleared up and I took the dog out for a spin.

I have never bothered wiring the heater up but I tested the motor this afternoon. It made one hell of a racket so Iit was just the excuse I was looking for to order one of the fancy new heaters from T7Designs Stuart and others have been enthusiastic about. The car is pretty much my daily driver so might as well not risk freezing to death everytime I take it out!

I've got lots of little jobs to fix now the big stuff is out of the way. I'm going to enjoy this!

I look forward to the heater fitting updates :D

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10 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Is it that tricky? :wacko:

 

We will learn together - with you doing all the work of course. :D

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12 hours ago, Hamish said:

We will learn together - with you doing all the work of course. :D

Deal! 

Same problem as yesterday, won't turn over with the starter button but the solenoid shunt works. After a bit of cranking the switch works again. 

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This is probably too easy a solution, but it can often be the little things. When I had exactly this problem, it was a cable-connecting screw that had worked loose at the back of the starter button. So perhaps check some connections?

Also, could it be the ignition barrel? Having turned my key fully to the right, I have to turn it back slightly for it to 'engage' and for everything to power up (noise of the electric fuel pump is my clue).  Its now one of the idiosyncrasies of the car! If you had the same issue, the cranking might just be loosening the ignition key to where it engages.

Miles 

Edited by MilesA
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7 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

won't turn over with the starter button

+1

Sounds like an electrical problem with the solenoid coil circuit or a failing or sticky solenoid.   Manual operation might be cleaning the contacts or freeing the plunger so that a weedy connection then works. 

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24 minutes ago, RobH said:

+1

Sounds like an electrical problem with the solenoid coil circuit or a failing or sticky solenoid.   Manual operation might be cleaning the contacts or freeing the plunger so that a weedy connection then works. 

Also what I think. Solenoid earth is good and the loom is new. Got nothing when shorting the switch so everything points towards the solenoid. 

The landy started first time after a month in hibernation. No excuse for the TR which gets taken out several times a week! 

Edited by EliTR6
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On 2/12/2021 at 4:46 PM, EliTR6 said:

Is it that tricky? :wacko:

Hoping I can do it without having to remove the dash 

 

Drill 3 holes in the removable metal plate on the T7 heater and you can use the existing bracket.  Piece of cake.  and you don't have to remove the dash.  I did it so it really is that easy.

Edited by David Owen
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On 2/13/2021 at 9:05 PM, Lebro said:

Try connecting the solenoid activating connection direct to 12V

That will prove if it's the solenoid or the wiring to it or the push button switch

Bob

Thanks @Lebro. I ordered a new solenoid last night. Temperatures have jumped by about 10degC and of course the car started perfectly this morning. At least I'll have a spare for when it finally gives up the ghost. Until then, it's a wasted 50eur sitting on the shelf... :wacko:

On 2/13/2021 at 11:23 PM, David Owen said:

 

Drill 3 holes in the removable metal plate on the T7 heater and you can use the existing bracket.  Piece of cake.  and you don't have to remove the dash.  I did it so it really is that easy.

Thanks David. Pics or it didn't happen! 

Gonzo the jack Russell has been enjoying his new perch. 

20210215-143304.jpg

20210215-143337.jpg

 

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Eli this is thelink to the picture of the  T7 heater mounted on the original bracket (last post at the moment the one in the link below is Stuart's : 

 

I would mount it about .5 to .75" more toward the front of the car than I did.

 

In regard to removing the original heater while the dash is on, I did this for the same reason as you.  I had a noisy heater motor.  It was noisy as was the second one i had that came with the car which is why I went with the T7.  I removed the heater by removing the bracket with the heater still attached.  And reinstalled it in reverse fashion. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/18/2021 at 2:45 PM, David Owen said:

Eli this is thelink to the picture of the  T7 heater mounted on the original bracket (last post at the moment the one in the link below is Stuart's : 

 

I would mount it about .5 to .75" more toward the front of the car than I did.

 

In regard to removing the original heater while the dash is on, I did this for the same reason as you.  I had a noisy heater motor.  It was noisy as was the second one i had that came with the car which is why I went with the T7.  I removed the heater by removing the bracket with the heater still attached.  And reinstalled it in reverse fashion. 

 

Thanks David 

I've been abroad for a couple of weeks for work and have returned to a week of quarantine but I'm not expecting too much tinkering time between the baby and catching up with work. 

Do I have to drain the rad or can I get away with hose clamps? 

Edited by EliTR6
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28 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks David 

I've been abroad for a couple of weeks for work and have returned to a week of quarantine but I'm not expecting too much tinkering time between the baby and catching up with work. 

Do I have to drain the rad or can I get away with hose clamps? 

If you turn the heater feed off and clamp the hose from the water pump then you`ll only have whats in the heater now to deal with.

Stuart.

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3 hours ago, stuart said:

If you turn the heater feed off and clamp the hose from the water pump then you`ll only have whats in the heater now to deal with.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart

That's what I hoped to read 

E

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Didn't take too long to fit. I broke the new switch for the heater annoyingly but I tested it and it works! Silent but deadly B)

I still need to figure out where to pick up the live feed too. 

Happy with the job so far! 

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Only problem with fitting it like that Eli is you cant alter the adjustable flaps easily and I always fit them the other way up so air from the vent flap can be drawn through the matrix

Stuart.

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52 minutes ago, stuart said:

Only problem with fitting it like that Eli is you cant alter the adjustable flaps easily and I always fit them the other way up so air from the vent flap can be drawn through the matrix

Stuart.

 

Is the scuttle vent supposed to be open when using the heater?

Looks like I'm going to dive back in under dash...

Cheers

 

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31 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

 

Is the scuttle vent supposed to be open when using the heater?

Looks like I'm going to dive back in under dash...

Cheers

 

It doesnt really have to be but obviously if youve no air coming in all your doing is recycling whats in the car, I realise thats academic with an open top car but Ive found that airflow through the matrix helps if you have hood and sidescreens in place for de-misting.

This picture of they way we fit them has been posted before Im sure.

Stuart.

1937339779_011(2).thumb.JPG.94ca365d70b2ae8e071e0e43905560ce.JPG

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On 3/1/2021 at 12:16 PM, EliTR6 said:

Thanks David 

I've been abroad for a couple of weeks for work and have returned to a week of quarantine but I'm not expecting too much tinkering time between the baby and catching up with work. 

Do I have to drain the rad or can I get away with hose clamps? 

 

Hose clamps.

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11 hours ago, stuart said:

It doesnt really have to be but obviously if youve no air coming in all your doing is recycling whats in the car, I realise thats academic with an open top car but Ive found that airflow through the matrix helps if you have hood and sidescreens in place for de-misting.

This picture of they way we fit them has been posted before Im sure.

Stuart.

1937339779_011(2).thumb.JPG.94ca365d70b2ae8e071e0e43905560ce.JPG

 

That's going to give you way motre room than the way I did it.  I'm just not that clever.

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Stuart,

How do you attach the hoses if you have the heater mounted that close to the back of the battery box.  Do you route them through the box or do you have some very tight right angle connectors?

Rgds Ian

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