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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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Drivers seat back in, took the car for a 20min between rain showers. 

Box feels tight, have to really find each gear then push it in firmly (but no grinding noises). There's a whirring noise that I didn't have with the old box that goes as soon as I put the clutch in. 

It works. I really need to put some miles on it before jumping to any conclusions. The noise is faint but I can hear it at low speeds. Hopefully it will go away as everything beds in. 

No work tomorrow afternoon but awful weather predicted so will refit the passenger seat and tidy up the garage. 

159855654450372.jpg

 

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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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Whirring is probably the clutch release bearing.

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10 minutes ago, Tim D. said:

Whirring is probably the clutch release bearing.

Thanks Tim. It's a new bearing, has 20mi on it. I didn't pull it apart to add grease as it didn't feel dry and I was confident it was packed at the factory. Not so confident now.

I "pressed" it onto the carrier with a block of wood and a hammer.

Did I mess up? 

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The whirring noise is probably the layshaft bearings. I would not worry unduly !.

If it was the clutch release bearing it would only whirr when pedal was pressed.

Bob.

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On 8/27/2020 at 8:31 PM, EliTR6 said:

 

159855654450372.jpg

Eli, what an intriguing photograph! Barely enough light, but it works so well.

 

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TR ISOFIX system  

brilliant :D 

you may want this too ?

 

https://haynes.com/en-gb/baby-manual-3rd-edition?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI84SO0s_A6wIVmLPtCh0NPwIiEAQYAiABEgJF1fD_BwE

 

NB

but remember you can’t do the reverse to put it back where it came from. :ph34r:

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36 minutes ago, Hamish said:

TR ISOFIX system  

brilliant :D 

you may want this too ?

 

https://haynes.com/en-gb/baby-manual-3rd-edition?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI84SO0s_A6wIVmLPtCh0NPwIiEAQYAiABEgJF1fD_BwE

 

NB

but remember you can’t do the reverse to put it back where it came from. :ph34r:

This was my baby reveal photo! 

159871368023530.jpg 

Thought I should top up the diff and found a lovely surprise! Completed rounded off and mole grips didn't work. 

159871373937176.jpg

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That is the correct filler plug for a TR 2 axle.  I am not sure the thread of the later taper plug is the same.   So go carefully.

I'd be tempted to file flats on that one so you have a square to cop hold of.   The seal is done with a fibre washer.

Is the drain plug brass too?

Peter W

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12 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

"That is the correct filler plug for a TR 2 axle."

Would that mean it is a Lockheed axle and half shafts then?

 

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2 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Not for certain.

Someone may have fitted a Lockheed rear cover to a Girling axle.

Peter W

I see! +1 :rolleyes: I like your solution, resourceful.

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23 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks all 

I'll check the drain plug later on. 

I can check what type of axle it is by counting how many bolts go through the backplate, right? 

Cheers 

Eli 

Yes.   4 is Lockheed.  6 is Girling.   Bolts that hold the brake backplate to the axle tube end.

Alternatively with the brake drum removed look at the stud flange.   A square flange is Lockheed and a round is Girling.

Peter W

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11 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yes.   4 is Lockheed.  6 is Girling.   Bolts that hold the brake backplate to the axle tube end.

Alternatively with the brake drum removed look at the stud flange.   A square flange is Lockheed and a round is Girling.

Peter W

Thank you Peter. Look like it is indeed a Girling axle. Drain plug is steel 

159881152795472.jpg

Do you think a PO forced an earlier filler plug in? 

159881162838927.jpg

Nothing I've tried has worked so far. Mole grips, stillson, filing flats... 

It was in a sorry state before I started but now... 

159881169557182.jpg

15988117697133.jpg

Diff cover off time? 

Edited by EliTR6
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46 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Diff cover off time?

Eli,

Do that and you end up with another sealing problem.

Really is a last resort in my mind.

Try a cold chisel (sharpened up) and a big hammer to force it around.

 

Charlie.

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I don't know if you got a welder, but I would weld a big nut on top of the old one. The heat in it self might help to loosen the plug.

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But it's brass !

I would go with the hammer & chisel / punch idea.

or file / grind larger flats on it so an adjustable spanner cannot slip

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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I think I would apply some heat . Heat up and quench a couple of times  then chisel and hammer on the outer most flange to shock it loose. At least fitted on the axle it is held solid while you work on it. If that fails then remove the cover and take it to someone who can weld a nut on as Inge says.

Ralph

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12 minutes ago, Lebro said:

But it's brass !

I would go with the hammer & chisel / punch idea.

or file / grind larger flats on it so an adjustable spanner cannot slip

Bob.

Oops, didn't see that :unsure:, but Eli said earlier that it is of steel.

Edited by ijonsson
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