Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3

[RobH]

You can do that and for a 38A alternator you could use a 40A fuse - but there are some things to consider.

A fuse that can carry (say) 40 amps continuously needs a considerably higher current to actually blow. For example - at twice the rated current a typical automotive blade fuse could take up to 5 seconds to operate according to the specification, but unfortunately the rectifiers in the alternator may not wait that long so you could end up with the alternator rectifiers blowing to protect the fuse.  

 The protection the fuse would provide is against a short circuit in the battery itself or in the battery cable, or conversely a short in the alternator or its wiring which the battery could otherwise feed.  

If there was a short further down in the system which somehow blew that fuse, the battery would happily continue to feed current anyway so you wouldn't gain any protection there.

Edited August 10, 2020 by RobH

[Ralph Whitaker]

+1.   Put the fuse after the battery.  If it is before and it blows it will fry the alternator as Rob said.

Ralph

[EliTR6]

OK, thanks. I was looking at a battery post with integrated 50A fuse. 

The only unprotected circuits are the two alternator feeds, one to the main fusebox and one to the auxiliary fusebox and the ignition switch circuit (just switches and relays) and the starter motor. 

My main concern would be if something happened to one of the wires between the alternator and the fuseboxes but if the alternator will sacrifice itself to save the car, is the battery fuse really a helpful addition ? 

 

[Ralph Whitaker]

56 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

OK, thanks. I was looking at a battery post with integrated 50A fuse. 

The only unprotected circuits are the two alternator feeds, one to the main fusebox and one to the auxiliary fusebox and the ignition switch circuit (just switches and relays) and the starter motor. 

My main concern would be if something happened to one of the wires between the alternator and the fuseboxes but if the alternator will sacrifice itself to save the car, is the battery fuse really a helpful addition ? 

 

Presumably the battery post you were looking at incorporating a fuse must have had the 50 amp fuse to a separate supply for the auxiliary equipment otherwise it would blow as soon as you tried to start the car.

  This is not a bad idea, but means isolating the supply just to that fuse and removing the existing supply from the starter solenoid etc. Could get complicated.

If you must a 50 amp fuse could be fitted into the main line to the ammeter which I think would then protect the entire electrical circuit as everything else comes after the ammeter, but again, if it blew it would isolate the alternator and blow the diodes. The only way to avoid alternator damage would be to run your alternator output direct to the battery and have the ammeter just reading discharge only, or change it for a battery condition /voltmeter. 

It is a lot of messing about.

Ralph

Edited August 11, 2020 by Ralph Whitaker
Additional paragraph.

[RobH]

Exactly. You need the battery connection direct to the solenoid and starter and there is nothing sensible you can do to fuse that.  

I think the fused battery terminal you are describing has two outputs- one direct unfused for the starter and the fused one for everything else (?)

As standard, the supply to the rest of the car is taken from the connection at the battery side of the starter solenoid which goes to the ammeter. That connection could be extended instead to the separately-fused connection on the battery terminal and is pretty easy to do.  That would be a sensible change as it would provide some protection to the circuits which are unfused at present (like the horns and ignition) and for the wiring around the ammeter. 

 

Edited August 11, 2020 by RobH

[EliTR6]

https://www.classicautoelec.com/36365-large_warehouse_default/cosse-de-batterie-porte-fusible-m8-en-laiton-étamé.jpg

Looks like its one fuse for everything so not right for this application. 

The horns are fused on my setup and I don't have an ammeter (voltmeter instead) so it's really just the switches and the wires from the alternator to the fusebox. 

I try to find a discreet way to add a fuse for the ignition so everything behind the dash is protected. 

An alternator is easier to replace than a melted loom in a burnt out car! 

Thanks everyone, it's already a lot clearer in my mind 

 

Edited August 11, 2020 by EliTR6

[EliTR6]

Got the drivers seat bolted in again but my brakes suddenly need bleeding and I used my spare brake fluid to help a friend stranded in his e type after he let the clutch reservoir run dry.

Looks like there's a new oil leak from the engine towards the front of the car. Not pouring out but enough to leave a small wet patch overnight. I imagine that the sump wasn't too pleased at carrying the weight of the engine for a couple of weeks and the jack was placed too far back.

Anyone had this before? Tighten the bolts and pray for the leak to lessen?

[foster461]

The most common leaks from the front are the timing chain cover and seal, the oil pan gasket and the block that spans the crankshaft with the often wood wedges at the sides. Clean everything up and see where the leak is, not forgetting that a leak in one place can lead to a puddle somewhere else.

Stan

[EliTR6]

9 hours ago, foster461 said:

The most common leaks from the front are the timing chain cover and seal, the oil pan gasket and the block that spans the crankshaft with the often wood wedges at the sides. Clean everything up and see where the leak is, not forgetting that a leak in one place can lead to a puddle somewhere else.

Stan

Thanks Stan 

I loosened the wrong bolt when I was adjusting the fan belt. I was looking for the alternator bracket and blindly set the spanner on the next one along. 

Either way, if its the sump or timing cover I'm in for another big job 

At this rate, I might as well start a full restoration 

Fingers crossed its nothing major this time 

Edited August 13, 2020 by EliTR6

[Ralph Whitaker]

Couldn`t be brake fluid could it. Just seemed coincidental that your brakes now need bleeding?

Ralph.

[james christie]

It’s a good idea to drill and wire up those bolts on the alternator brackets as, since you have found out, they go through the block and losing one on the road could be ´eventful’

james

[EliTR6]

45 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Couldn`t be brake fluid could it. Just seemed coincidental that your brakes now need bleeding?

Ralph.

Thats what I thought but the puddle is far from the brake lines, cylinder, etc 

I put some cardboard down overnight so I'll check what we have when I get home 

40 minutes ago, james christie said:

It’s a good idea to drill and wire up those bolts on the alternator brackets as, since you have found out, they go through the block and losing one on the road could be ´eventful’

james

Thanks for the tip! It's a good idea 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

1 hour ago, james christie said:

It’s a good idea to drill and wire up those bolts on the alternator brackets as, since you have found out, they go through the block and losing one on the road could be ´eventful’

james

Here's one I did earlier...

Peter W

[EliTR6]

10 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Here's one I did earlier...

Peter W

Thanks Peter, very neat! The bolt I loosened was one for the water pump housing. I've checked and there are no visible leaks. The cardboard isn't showing any puddles either but the car hasn't been started since Sunday. 

Bought 1.5 litres of dot 4 and bled the brakes and clutch with my heavily pregnant wife on pedal duty. Now the brake pedal is rock solid with very almost zero travel and the clutch feels too light but maybe it just pales by comparison with the brakes. 

Huge thunderstorm is overhead right now. The dog is cowering under the couch. I'll have another go tomorrow. 

Ps: brakes and clutch were working fine before the gearbox incident 

This is the old fluid

Edited August 13, 2020 by EliTR6

[Lebro]

Must be very thick to stay in the pot  

Bob

[EliTR6]

11 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Must be very thick to stay in the pot  

Bob

Throw enough brake fluid at the wall... 

[EliTR6]

I had left the handbrake on 

Pedal feels fine

Test drive this afternoon after work 

Holding thumbs! 

Edited August 14, 2020 by EliTR6

[EliTR6]

First drive around the block. Brakes work well, clutch feels lighter than before but seems to be fine. Overdrive switches on and off nicely. 

I'll have a read up later but it feels like the new (4 synchro) box doesn't have a reverse lock out. I could slide it into reverse from a forward driving gear whilst on the move (without releasing the clutch of course). 

Worrying 

[Lebro]

The 4 synchro box certainly should have a reverse gear lockout. you have to lift the gear stick against a spring to move it over to the reverse position.

Is the cone shaped spring fitted under the metal cap ?   https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200090

Bob

[EliTR6]

3 minutes ago, Lebro said:

The 4 synchro box certainly should have a reverse gear lockout. you have to lift the gear stick against a spring to move it over to the reverse position.

Is the cone shaped spring fitted under the metal cap ?   https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200090

Bob

That was a quick reply! 

Cone and spring are present 

Engine off or on, it slips into reverse a lot easier than the other gears. 

3rd is particularly tough 

[Lebro]

B

Maybe the gear stick does not match the box.

If you remove the gear stick (watch out for the antirattle spring flying out) you should be able to see the reverse selector shaft end being higher up than the other two.

Bob

[EliTR6]

21 minutes ago, Lebro said:

B

Maybe the gear stick does not match the box.

If you remove the gear stick (watch out for the antirattle spring flying out) you should be able to see the reverse selector shaft end being higher up than the other two.

Bob

 

Thanks Bob. Doesn't sound anything like what I have 

[EliTR6]

Is this what I need? Cheers 

Hang on, are you talking to about the selector rods inside the top cover? 

Edited August 14, 2020 by EliTR6

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

31 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Is this what I need? Cheers 

Hang on, are you talking to about the selector rods inside the top cover? 

No that stick will not work without shortening, a different spring and a method of locating it in place as the long bolt you have will not go through it.

where the long bolt goes through are there threads in the aluminium ?  If so  you will need to use that later stick with spigotted 5/16” unf studs.  You will also need to drill out the holes in the cap to accept the bigger bolts.

pm me for more info before you attack anything.

The  spring marked with a Red Cross is the one to be used with that later gear stick.
 

Cheers 

Peter W

PS other pictures.  Looking into the hiole the gearstick came out of.  The reverse 'detent' or ramp is the LH selector in the hole.  The thing should be taller than the other two.  The 1/4" diameter long bolt should be a good fit in the aluminium housing.  Not sloppy.

 

 

 

Edited August 14, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Ralph Whitaker]

7 hours ago, Lebro said:

The 4 synchro box certainly should have a reverse gear lockout. you have to lift the gear stick against a spring to move it over to the reverse position.

Is the cone shaped spring fitted under the metal cap ?   https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200090

Bob

Mine is an ex saloon 4 synchro box and it appears they use more of a ramp, where the 3 synchro boxes had a step that had to be lifted over. Mine too is too easy to pass 3rd and get reverse, but I am using the saloon gearbox top and was wondering whether it would be better with the top off my spare 3 synchro box and if it would fit. Otherwise a stronger spring under the metal cap might make it less inclined to mount the ramp into reverse.

Ralph