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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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3 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

 

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/all-hand-tools/laser-impact-stud-extractor-1%2F2in-drive-121932.html

I'm having this bad boy delivered tomorrow. Hopefully it will do the trick! 

And I'll order a unf/unc tap and die set to clean up the threads 

Either that or break the stud off in the block.....

 

If I were using an air hammer driver with that I would fit an universal joint between the two to ensure the drive was as far as possible along the same axis.  This was from experience of removing freight bay floor board screws in aeroplanes when the screw drive slot was ruined and the screws had to be drilled out.  Never broke a stud extractor after I used an universal joint in the drive line from 'T' bar, through extension and socket and into Snap-On stud extractor.  Without, it was a 50/50 chance of extractor breakage because you leant the socket over.

In truth I would not use an air tool - do it manually if you can so you can feel the proceedings..  and consider using a UJ. in the drive line so if you lean to one side while turning the tool it will not bend/break the stud.

 

Peter W

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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Either that or break the stud off in the block.....

 

If I were using an air hammer driver with that I would fit an universal joint between the two to ensure the drive was as far as possible along the same axis.  This was from experience of removing freight bay floor board screws in aeroplanes when the screw drive slot was ruined and the screws had to be drilled out.  Never broke a stud extractor after I used an universal joint in the drive line from 'T' bar, through extension and socket and into Snap-On stud extractor.  Without, it was a 50/50 chance of extractor breakage because you leant the socket over.

In truth I would not use an air tool - do it manually if you can so you can feel the proceedings..  and consider using a UJ. in the drive line so if you lean to one side while turning the tool it will not bend/break the stud.

 

Peter W

Thanks Peter. I don't have air tools but I do have an electric impact wrench but I was hoping to resist the urge to use it here. 

I'll go with your advice and use a breaker bar or ratchet with a UJ. 

Thought I would use the new tool to wriggle it back and forth whilst applying heat then freeze and release. 

 

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Eli,

do you Mig Weld?

Because if you do, simplew ay to get that stud free is to weld a length of scrap bar to the stud,

nice chunk of weld - the heat helps,

and then just tap the end of the bar around,

never failed me yet, evem on broken manifold studs, broken below the level of the head.

john.

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7 hours ago, John Morrison said:

Eli,

do you Mig Weld?

Because if you do, simplew ay to get that stud free is to weld a length of scrap bar to the stud,

nice chunk of weld - the heat helps,

and then just tap the end of the bar around,

never failed me yet, evem on broken manifold studs, broken below the level of the head.

john.

It's been years since I used a mig and years since our gasless mig was active. 

I almost bought some new wire for it the other day but chickened out. 

 

 

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The extractor worked a treat! Took a couple of minutes to remove all 3 studs 

They were hardly rusted in, just stuck enough to strip the nuts when I double nutted them. Even the broken off one came out without a fuss 

On anothe positive note, passed my motorbike bike licence! I hope to buy a royal enfield interceptor next year 

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Well done Eli, nothing worse than a bodge of nuts and bolts holding stuff on!

Stuart.

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Close but no cigar 

Second attempt tomorrow 

I've got the 3 studs lined up but it won't go in further. Another 1.5" to go. 

Rotating the output in gear hasn't helped 

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Edited by EliTR6
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After you've lined up the clutch plate with a spare first motion shaft,  I normally sit on the passenger floor with my right foot on the gearbox housing where it swells out carrying the crosshaft pushing the box forward, and wiggle the overdrive housing from the rear left and right and twist the output flange forward and backwards at the same time. If you have the gearbox to engine alignment correct up and down it then just slides in...sometimes

Mick Richards.   

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Thanks for the tips 

I think a trolley jack underneath the middle of the box will help too

I'm stuck at the market most of the day then I'm off to pick up my new toy (a place holder for the Royal enfield or a bonneville)

I'll crawl back into the tr3 late afternoon! 

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Exciting day! After a 7 hour stint at the market got home and a friend came round with his new old lancia that he drove back from Italy with last week (750mi). 

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Picked up the new bike! 

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Then a collective effort managed to pretty much get the box on. 

It's only got a few more mm to go. Had to clock off, off to the in-laws for dinner to try to win back some brownie points! 

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What is that bike?  Cannot make out the capacity or the name, but it looks like a copy of a Honda twin of some sort.  Got rid of all my newer bikes, just kept one of each BSA Bantams, and a 250 BSA C11G, not that I have been out much on any of them this year, spending all my free time on the TR.

Ralph.

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A mash 500

Chinese made French bikes. Their 125cc bikes are very popular here. 

The engine is actually a 400cc mono, a copy of an old Honda unit. 

Cheap and cheerful, 5 years old and only 1000mi on the clock! Just had a full service and a new battery and the garage will sell it for me when I'm ready to move up to the 650 twin Royal enfield. Happy days! 

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Edited by EliTR6
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Bit of a risk, that’s how flanges get broken off. As long as you only apply medium force evenly around the bell housing and if the gap doesn’t close easily stop and see why.

Mick Richards

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Eli,

Interesting that you have that problem.

Over the years I’ve mated up various engines and gearboxes of various makes and always once the gearbox has started to move into the plate it goes all of the way with little effort.

On my TR it’s always been a struggle. (I've done it 3 times.)

It takes ages to get lined up initially, and then takes a lot of effort to get it all the way in.

I end up slowly tightening the nuts around the bell housing in a pattern to make sure it goes in straight (12 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock, 3 o’clock.  Well, not exactly, obviously but you get the idea.),   just ¼ turn at each point.

It always gets there in the end and does not seem to have caused any obvious internal damage.

It just seems “Wrong” though.

 

Charlie.

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I did it on OGB 800 when I had to get the overdrive box up to Sheffield Overdrive Services to rebuild it. No problem. Put in non overdrive, no problem. Replaced with overdrive, also straightforward. So if it came out Eli it has to go back in. Mind you, we did it in two people.

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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

Any tips for the last few mm? Thanks 

Is it safe to wind it on for the bit using the studs and bolts? 

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Does the clutch operating lever move forwards and backwards OK?

I would fit a couple of bolts loosely so the thing cannot migrate out again and then I'd be 'waggling' the tail up/down/left/right.  It should go into place.  Do you have a big tyre lever you can apply to the back end to push it into place? - block of wood across the bodywork tunnel if you choose to push against that.

Like Mick I am fearful of puling it into place with bolts incase you get over excited and break the bell housing flange.

Cheers

Peter W

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