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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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9 minutes ago, 2long said:

Maybe you should get back in the waves for some inspiration!  Good luck!

Here’s me at my favorite spot called “Sandys”

Cheers

Dan

1FBFE40D-0D75-41A7-8C6C-471234284EC1.jpeg

Wow 

Is that Hawaï ? Looks dreamy 

We had 1-2 ft here yesterday, glassy. Happens once in a blue moon! Usually messy as hell 

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13 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks Bob. You and me both 

The piston clunks perfectly with a 0.25mm (0.01") spacer slid under one side of the dashpot so I know it can line up 

15906911768865.jpg 

Would adding a filed down washer cause any issues? 

 

11 hours ago, 2long said:

Yes Hawaii it is. Pretty good TR community here, and when I get stuck on a car project I head to the sea!

Very jealous! Crappy waves and I'm on my own here :huh:

Have you read barbarian days? 

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Removed both pistons, cleaned everything up and did the drop test with the piston holes blanked off. About 3sec difference. 

Swapped dashpots and its down to around one second. 

Tightening thé dashpot screws in a specific order has got me to a point that seems ok

Edited by EliTR6
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1 hour ago, Lebro said:

Sounds like progress

Bob.

Cheers 

I set the jets using my colour tune but then idle was very high even with the throttle stops all the way out. 

Checked for leaks with carb cleaner and didn't find any. 

With the carbs synced I couldn't get it to idle under 2000rpm 

I've leaned the mixture out 2 flats and it's idling at 1200rpm but not very smoothly. 

Took it for a spin round the block. Revs take forever to drop on lift-off. I'm using 20w50 for the damper oil. Too heavy? 

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Clunk is good.  Glad you checked the piston in chamber drop speed, I had a pair of carbs that had differing drop rates on the pistons and swapping them solved it.

As Bob noted are the butterfly spindles correctly centred now the butterfly discs are seating?  Are both the link rods between each carb butterfly/choke sloppy side to side and not binding?  You can have a bit of rattle if that allows the chokes and throttles of each carb to move independently and not bind.

Cheers

Peter W

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25 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Clunk is good.  Glad you checked the piston in chamber drop speed, I had a pair of carbs that had differing drop rates on the pistons and swapping them solved it.

As Bob noted are the butterfly spindles correctly centred now the butterfly discs are seating?  Are both the link rods between each carb butterfly/choke sloppy side to side and not binding?  You can have a bit of rattle if that allows the chokes and throttles of each carb to move independently and not bind.

Cheers

Peter W

I suspect Bob is right to suspect the spindle. I think I'm going to have to take the carbs off again. I'm fed up and my wife is even more cheesed off with me :wacko:

Apologies for the neck craning angle 

Just been for another drive, still revving after I take my foot off the throttle 

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You should not only have some side to side movement, but also some rotational free play as well before the butterflies actually move.

Bob.

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Have you seen pages 4 and 5 of this pdf?  They give the instruction for rod end float to be 1/32" and rotational of 1/16"  Mine are a lot more but still function correctly.

http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/type_hs_tuning__tervicing.pdf

 

 

Cheers

Peter W

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7 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Have you seen pages 4 and 5 of this pdf?  They give the instruction for rod end float to be 1/32" and rotational of 1/16"  Mine are a lot more but still function correctly.

http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/type_hs_tuning__tervicing.pdf

 

 

Cheers

Peter W

Hadn't seen this pdf before, muchos gracias.

Just finished a 10 hour work day and I've taken the carbs off. 

With linkage removed and my spare hand holding the throttle fully closed, here's what I have at the front 

159085174430962.jpg

And the rear carb 

159085187798651.jpg

The piston can't have been falling all their way down as the car was running with the jets pretty much level with the bridge 

159085198748069.jpg

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Its no wonder you have a high tickover with that much air gap round the butterflies, hence also why your jets didnt need to be that far down as theres so much suck going on.

Stuart.

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More like it but you still need that second one to be the same as the first.

Stuart.

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56 minutes ago, Lebro said:

1st one looks good, 2nd one not so

Bob.

 

1 hour ago, stuart said:

More like it but you still need that second one to be the same as the first.

Stuart.

Thanks guys 

Already back together annoyingly. 

But the good news is that I've got my car back! 

It's not perfect but it's a damn sight better than its been at any point in the past 3 weeks! 

Took it for a quick spin and the revs drop normally and power was fine. Idling at 1200rpm but throttle stops are engaged slightly. 

I spent a lot of time getting the linkage loose enough to start tuning it properly tomorrow. 

Bob, Peter and Stuart, you are lifesavers! 

The carbs have been a crappy experience but I've learnt a lot. Hopefully this will help others too. 

Check your throttle discs before fitting new carbs! (even though you shouldn't have to) 

Question : both carbs are now registering pretty much zero suck at idle. Does this mean I'm running too rich? 

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9 hours ago, Lebro said:

No, just the way your "suck meter" is set up. 

Bob.

I was doing it wrong :huh:

"But you don't actually care about the absolute air flow rate, only that you want to make it equal for all carburetors. After getting the tool set up to read dead center on the indicator for the first carburetor, you place the tool in front of the second carb. "

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb135.htm

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41 minutes ago, Lebro said:

No, not at all, but sometimes these meters are fairly insensitive.

Keep up the good work :)

Bob.

Cheers 

For other kooks like myself, you screw in the unisyn centre to adjust the airflow and bubble height. 

I've just driven to work to do some fine tuning without any angry neighbours screaming at me. 

Put 20 litres unleaded 98 in the tank and fuel gauge was a showing empty. My heart sank then I gave the gauge a tap and voilà! 

Added bonus. The rad hoses I changed are all sealing fine. Under pressure... B)

159091816566107.jpg

Engine sounds much improved at idle now 

Edited by EliTR6
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