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Gear lever and clutch bearing advice


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Some time ago I obtained a new gear lever, specified for a TR5. Now I have compared the new, (bottom one in photo) to the original one (top) there is a significant difference.

I cannot reconcile these with the dimensions on the Revington site, which identifies the variations. the length of the shorter one is 260mm overall and the longer one 300mm overall.

can someone advise which is correct for a TR5?

Secondly. I have the engine /box out at the moment and checking the  clutch bearing carrier there is wear in the carrier from the fork pins and wear in the pins themselves,. This is after approx. 4k miles

When "tested" with a file the carrier and pins are both  very soft which would explain the wear. I have obtained a bronze carrier replacement and new fork (the original one was a very flimsy casting)

Question- Do I let the new carrier spin and modify the slave cylinder and pushrod to the TR4 arrangement? or replace the pin ?

As usual any advice gratefully received

DSCN5287.JPG

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Hi Paul,

your soft carrier was a naff brass item.  How far can you throw it

The early TRs were Phosphour bronze and the later 4a onwards were steel

The bronze will work well but will eventually wear a little if you leave the anti-rotation pin in.

I use a steel carrier on my 4A with no pin. 

I use no pin in order  to allow the bearing to spin up quicker than just relying on the bearing race to spin up - these can be quite stiff.

I also use the TR4 arrangement with the return spring on the cross shaft arm.

When you fit the fork do NOT forget to fit an extra pin at 90 degrees to the taper pin.

 

Roger

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Probably teaching grandma etc....but it’s important that there is no play in the pin (or pins) before it starts to help take up the load, otherwise the taper pin will shear first. 

Rgds Ian

PS if you have wear in the fork pins where they engage with the release bearing, you can rotate them half a turn. 

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