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Which Spin on Oil Filter


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I changed the oil on my 6 just before putting it away for the winter although I did have a few short drives before this. I used a Unipart GEF 443 filter which is a short stubby one to gain clearance as i have an oil cooler.

So since its been away it has been dry until last week when I had to move the 6 out of the garage and now its leaking oil from the filter seal and has continued to do so for the last few days, about half an egg cup. Its a mystery why it should do this now but perhaps the cold oil increased pressure. I checked the OPV and that seems fine.

I am going to put a new filter on so question is have I fitted the correct one or can some one suggest a better or right one to fit.

 

cheers

 

 

Edited by Paul Herts
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Hi Paul,

GFE 166 is the code for the Unipart short filter, GFE 227 is the code for the long version. If you search on here, there are various threads with oil filter codes listed. For short filters, I've also used B & B BFO4077, Mann W712/43, Wix WL7098 and Fram PH2966 quite a few times. If you visit your local factor and cross-ref the Unipart code, you should be able to get something suitable.

Cheers,
Matt

 

OIL FILTER CROSS REF:PART NO.docx

Edited by matt george
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59 minutes ago, John L said:

I use a long one from Moss, its a K&N  HP2009,  moss # 235-830.

John

My recommendation is the Mann 719/5 with integrated anti-return valve. Oil is kept in the filter after engine shut off and this results in faster oil pressure build up from cold starts.

Harald

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Check where exactly your filter is leaking, there are 3 seals to the outside where it can leak from (including the copper washer under the bolt head). New seal set can be obtained from Moss if needed.

Pressure build-up is not possible, it can relieve via the galery.

Mine leaked too, I had to tighten the bolt.

I use the K&N HP2009 as well, this also has a not return valve. It has to be mounted at an angle. 

Waldi

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1 hour ago, Mike C said:

Does the filter have adequate thread engagement? I had to extend the centre nozzle on my Mocal adapter because it only engaged the cartridge by a thread or so.  On a cold start one morning the cartridge blew off.

+1

I was able to remove the threaded portion using a threaded filter connection cut from the filter base and welded to a piece of flat steel to make a spanner with something else (can't remember what) to lock the thread.  I then cleaned everything and reinstalled it using heavy duty thread locker with an extra 10 mm of thread protruding.  It was quite long so plenty of thread to work with.

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3 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said:

+1

I was able to remove the threaded portion using a threaded filter connection cut from the filter base and welded to a piece of flat steel to make a spanner with something else (can't remember what) to lock the thread.  I then cleaned everything and reinstalled it using heavy duty thread locker with an extra 10 mm of thread protruding.  It was quite long so plenty of thread to work with.

I had to use a large LPG turbo torch and bolt remover to get my nozzle  out. It was damaged so a new one had to be machined up out of pipe.

20161212_125723.jpg

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1 minute ago, Mike C said:

I had to use a large LPG turbo torch and bolt remover to get my nozzle  out. It was damaged so a new one had to be machined up out of pipe.

20161212_125723.jpg

I think it was a bit of a fluke I managed to get mine out as I'm sure they are cast in place.  Lots of heat input also as you say Mike.

Hot over there today?  We're been sweltering here all week at 24-26 degrees :):):)

 

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I suspect the nozzle  may of been cast in - it took a lot of heat and brute force to get it out. 

We're down to around   30 degrees each day  at the moment. I was very impressed at how the TR handled recent days in the 40's - driving around town and racing up to the close by Strathbogie tablelands  the temperature gauge never rose above the half way mark.

 

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  • 2 months later...
11 minutes ago, Carey said:

I want to ditch my oil cooler so I have removed the pipes is it OK to use the same spin on filter unit and just blank off the pipe holes

The short answer is "No"!

The pipe/hoses will have to be joined together to complete the circuit of oil flow. Refit the hoses and source a male-male nipple and join the free end of the hoses with it. I think they're 1/2" BSP, someone else will confirm.

Richard.

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