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6 x 2 or low Jack.


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Rather than driving up on a series of 6 x 2s. I’m looking to purchase a low access trolly Jack, not sure if I need a long reach one to position under the appropriate central points in order to put the car on 4 axle stands. A foot operated one would be ideal. Has anyone purchased such an animal.

Regards

Phil

 

 

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We have a couple of trolley jacks but the low access, long reach, high lift is the one for TRs. Even then the handle is a bit restricted by the bumper when lifting on the chassis’s front crossmember. 

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D7D41C96-0144-40D9-AB27-DBA18D790E97.jpeg

Edited by Drewmotty
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I use a Clarke CTJ2QLP 2 Tonne Quick Lift Low Profile Trolley Jack. Only foot operated until real weight on the jack then handle. 

Never had a problem with handle contacting body when right under car, handle can pump when only a few inches off the floor.

- I can no longer see the foot pedal in the photo on Machine mart - but mine has one!

Alan

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Thank you chaps.

While on the subject is there a preferred sequence for lifting giving consideration to access for the Jack . Front first of Rear first in order to raise the car onto stands to overhaul the braking system, and any other consideration.

Thanks

Phil

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Hi Phil,

I jack up the front first and place the axle stands at their lowest, then the same at the back. I do this 3 or 4 times raising the stands each time.

Cheers.

Mark.

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Hi All

Must say i'm slightly puzzled by this?

On the basis its in the TR6 forum i assume we are talking about lifting a 6.

But i've never had an issue lifting my 6 on a standard home trolly jack with the simple bar handle. And although i've reached the top of the lift i can easily get underneath full length on my crawler board.

To do that i lift either end half way then use axle stands and lift the other end then raisde the other end to max height my trolly jack will go to.

So i've never needed a low jack of any kind, maybe if the tyres are dead flat but not as normal.

By 6x2's i assume you mean those really low ramps.

I do have some of those but only bought them so i could use them to lift the pass side of the car a couple of inches so at least i can open the door with enough clearance to stop it smacking into the low wall between my drive and next door. But no need to use them to get my big jack underneath.

Cheers  Keith

 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Keith66 said:

Hi All

Must say i'm slightly puzzled by this?

On the basis its in the TR6 forum i assume we are talking about lifting a 6.

But i've never had an issue lifting my 6 on a standard home trolly jack with the simple bar handle. And although i've reached the top of the lift i can easily get underneath full length on my crawler board.

To do that i lift either end half way then use axle stands and lift the other end then raisde the other end to max height my trolly jack will go to.

So i've never needed a low jack of any kind, maybe if the tyres are dead flat but not as normal.

By 6x2's i assume you mean those really low ramps.

I do have some of those but only bought them so i could use them to lift the pass side of the car a couple of inches so at least i can open the door with enough clearance to stop it smacking into the low wall between my drive and next door. But no need to use them to get my big jack underneath.

Cheers  Keith

Keith,

6 x 2" planks of wood I assume - there are a number of reason why a low profile racing jack is needed e.g. low profile tyres, lowered suspension (normally by 20mm).

Cheers, Andrew

 

Edited by Andrew Smith
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Andrews spot on 6" x 2" plank of wood to raise the car, but as George says they do tend to move and drilling into the floor seems a lot of work.

A standard Jack or at least the one I have doesn't clear the front Anti-roll bar with this set up:

Vredestein 195 65 15

Springs Front Red/Blue Revington 400lb/in 9-3/8” free length  RTR3192

Springs Rear Red/ Yellow Revington 450lb ¾” lower 10-½ free length   RTR3101R

 

So I think its a Low Profile, Long Reach for me.

 

Thanks all,

Phil

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Hi All

Hadn't thought of a plank (except me!!!:D) even though thats what i used to raise the pass side of my car to stop the door hitting the low wall. But as you say it was a pain moving and falling aprt (old like the car )

So i got some of these, cheap as chips (like 20 quid) and of course being ramped easier to get a couple of wheels on than a plank.

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But i simply hadn't though a TR6 would be low enough to need a low rise jack so that was the suprise for me.

But you mention low profiles and i'm on 165/80's, but surely if it makes that much diff the speedo must also be out? Of course people could eb running uprated suspension and shorter springs buty i was just relating it to my car.

Cheers  Keith

low rise ramps.jpg

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Two of these inclined planes will easily get any vehicle high enough to slide under.

I support the 2x6 plank of wood with a wood block about half way up, so the vehicle doesn't crack the wood.

To raise the rear it is safe to raise from the differential, in fact Triumph recommended that.

An hydraulic trolley jack is an essential purchase  to raise the diff or to go even higher.  4 jack-stands needed to be safe underneath.

 

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Edited by Sapphire72
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