Phil H 4 Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 Rather than driving up on a series of 6 x 2s. I’m looking to purchase a low access trolly Jack, not sure if I need a long reach one to position under the appropriate central points in order to put the car on 4 axle stands. A foot operated one would be ideal. Has anyone purchased such an animal. Regards Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 (edited) We have a couple of trolley jacks but the low access, long reach, high lift is the one for TRs. Even then the handle is a bit restricted by the bumper when lifting on the chassis’s front crossmember. Edited February 6, 2020 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 I use a Clarke CTJ2QLP 2 Tonne Quick Lift Low Profile Trolley Jack. Only foot operated until real weight on the jack then handle. Never had a problem with handle contacting body when right under car, handle can pump when only a few inches off the floor. - I can no longer see the foot pedal in the photo on Machine mart - but mine has one! Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 I found that blocks tend to be pushed along the floor when I attempted to drive onto them. The only real answer is a low access Jack this is what I use it fits under the TR3 with about half an inch to spare George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 Thank you chaps. While on the subject is there a preferred sequence for lifting giving consideration to access for the Jack . Front first of Rear first in order to raise the car onto stands to overhaul the braking system, and any other consideration. Thanks Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Ogram Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 Hi Phil, I jack up the front first and place the axle stands at their lowest, then the same at the back. I do this 3 or 4 times raising the stands each time. Cheers. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 Hi All Must say i'm slightly puzzled by this? On the basis its in the TR6 forum i assume we are talking about lifting a 6. But i've never had an issue lifting my 6 on a standard home trolly jack with the simple bar handle. And although i've reached the top of the lift i can easily get underneath full length on my crawler board. To do that i lift either end half way then use axle stands and lift the other end then raisde the other end to max height my trolly jack will go to. So i've never needed a low jack of any kind, maybe if the tyres are dead flat but not as normal. By 6x2's i assume you mean those really low ramps. I do have some of those but only bought them so i could use them to lift the pass side of the car a couple of inches so at least i can open the door with enough clearance to stop it smacking into the low wall between my drive and next door. But no need to use them to get my big jack underneath. Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Keith66 said: Hi All Must say i'm slightly puzzled by this? On the basis its in the TR6 forum i assume we are talking about lifting a 6. But i've never had an issue lifting my 6 on a standard home trolly jack with the simple bar handle. And although i've reached the top of the lift i can easily get underneath full length on my crawler board. To do that i lift either end half way then use axle stands and lift the other end then raisde the other end to max height my trolly jack will go to. So i've never needed a low jack of any kind, maybe if the tyres are dead flat but not as normal. By 6x2's i assume you mean those really low ramps. I do have some of those but only bought them so i could use them to lift the pass side of the car a couple of inches so at least i can open the door with enough clearance to stop it smacking into the low wall between my drive and next door. But no need to use them to get my big jack underneath. Cheers Keith Keith, 6 x 2" planks of wood I assume - there are a number of reason why a low profile racing jack is needed e.g. low profile tyres, lowered suspension (normally by 20mm). Cheers, Andrew Edited February 7, 2020 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2020 Andrews spot on 6" x 2" plank of wood to raise the car, but as George says they do tend to move and drilling into the floor seems a lot of work. A standard Jack or at least the one I have doesn't clear the front Anti-roll bar with this set up: Vredestein 195 65 15 Springs Front Red/Blue Revington 400lb/in 9-3/8” free length RTR3192 Springs Rear Red/ Yellow Revington 450lb ¾” lower 10-½ free length RTR3101R So I think its a Low Profile, Long Reach for me. Thanks all, Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted February 9, 2020 Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 Hi All Hadn't thought of a plank (except me!!!) even though thats what i used to raise the pass side of my car to stop the door hitting the low wall. But as you say it was a pain moving and falling aprt (old like the car ) So i got some of these, cheap as chips (like 20 quid) and of course being ramped easier to get a couple of wheels on than a plank. But i simply hadn't though a TR6 would be low enough to need a low rise jack so that was the suprise for me. But you mention low profiles and i'm on 165/80's, but surely if it makes that much diff the speedo must also be out? Of course people could eb running uprated suspension and shorter springs buty i was just relating it to my car. Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 Hi Keith, Have yet to order the Jack so may get some ramps as you show and see what the clearance is. Flee bay I guess. Thanks for the post. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 (edited) Two of these inclined planes will easily get any vehicle high enough to slide under. I support the 2x6 plank of wood with a wood block about half way up, so the vehicle doesn't crack the wood. To raise the rear it is safe to raise from the differential, in fact Triumph recommended that. An hydraulic trolley jack is an essential purchase to raise the diff or to go even higher. 4 jack-stands needed to be safe underneath. Edited February 12, 2020 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 Demon tweeks currently have these offerings on the bay. A bit more expensive, at £41.99 each. Height 140mm, width 205mm, length 610mm, load capacity 7000kg. eBay link : Demon tweeks Racing Tyre Changing Ramp Cheers, Deggers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 Purchased a low entry jack but also made some ramps to aid access. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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