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CV Driveshafts - disappointment


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That’s not what I was suggesting. You won’t feel or see movement between the wheel taper and the hub adaptor taper if you’re just using hand power. Under drive and braking the forces are much greater and clonks can appear even if the spinners seem to be tight. There’s always some play between the hub adaptor and wheel splines. This is what Z320 was describing further up the thread. 

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Supple is a good word for it.

sort of feels like I need to add a few clicks to my rear shocks 

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Hi Ian,

for you I have been under my TR last night to check.

My classic drive shafts are about 40.000 miles old (how time runs!) and I feel and hear a noticeable play.

But less than your CV shafts and very much less than my old ones.

But I have no clonks, as told, caps locked with 300 Nm (and no grease on the tappered surfaces).

Sone kind of dangerous for me to claim this is the reason - but it could be (part of the problem).

Perhaps another member of this forum would be so kind to check also on his car.

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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1 hour ago, Z320 said:

Hi Ian,

for you I have been under my TR last night to check.

My classic drive shafts are about 40.000 miles old (how time runs!) and I feel and hear a noticeable play.

But less than your CV shafts and very much less than my old ones.

But I have no clonks, as told, caps locked with 300 Nm (and no grease on the tappered surfaces).

Sone kind of dangerous for me to claim this is the reason - but it could be (part of the problem).

Perhaps another member of this forum would be so kind to check also on his car.

Ciao, Marco

Thanks Marco, a new pair of shafts are being delivered tomorrow, excellent customer service from the manufacturer. The same cannot be said of the supplier, yet again Rimmer’s terrible service, over the last 30 years I have told myself many times to stop using them, perhaps this time I will finally stick to it.

Ian

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1 hour ago, iani said:

Thanks Marco, a new pair of shafts are being delivered tomorrow, excellent customer service from the manufacturer. The same cannot be said of the supplier, yet again Rimmer’s terrible service, over the last 30 years I have told myself many times to stop using them, perhaps this time I will finally stick to it.

Ian

You need to take this problem up with Roger of the TR Register QA team. I have had similar problems with Moss over many years but in the end have always got them sorted.

Bruce.

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2 hours ago, iani said:

Thanks Marco, a new pair of shafts are being delivered tomorrow, excellent customer service from the manufacturer. The same cannot be said of the supplier, yet again Rimmer’s terrible service, over the last 30 years I have told myself many times to stop using them, perhaps this time I will finally stick to it.

Ian

 

56 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

You need to take this problem up with Roger of the TR Register QA team. I have had similar problems with Moss over many years but in the end have always got them sorted.

Bruce.

It would look like that Ian has a replacement. It will be interesting the see if the problem is solved with this or if it still exists.

Clearly the product should not be dicky but if it is then the supplier NOT the manufacturer is responsible.

I don;t know why Rimmer's are not being helpful but if the manufacturer did not come to the rescue then the PQI would try to help.

It is not always the fault of the supplier when selling boxed goods but their recovery process is always an indicator of whether to trade with them or not.

In the end had Rimmer's received Ian's dodgy CV they would have returned it to the manufacturer for a credit.

Keep us up dated.

 

Roger

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Z320 said:

Ian, you have spinners, not octagonal caps?

Yes, two eared spinners.

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22 hours ago, RogerH said:

 

It would look like that Ian has a replacement. It will be interesting the see if the problem is solved with this or if it still exists.

Clearly the product should not be dicky but if it is then the supplier NOT the manufacturer is responsible.

I don;t know why Rimmer's are not being helpful but if the manufacturer did not come to the rescue then the PQI would try to help.

It is not always the fault of the supplier when selling boxed goods but their recovery process is always an indicator of whether to trade with them or not.

In the end had Rimmer's received Ian's dodgy CV they would have returned it to the manufacturer for a credit.

Keep us up dated.

 

Roger

 

 

 

Hi Roger !

I take your point as you know, I had a problem with my Wasp starter motor. I took it back to them and they tested it but were no happy with the performance and they gave me a new one even though it was 3 1/2 years old ? Now that's what I call service! So I went away a happy camper apart from the fact that it has to be wired through a relay, which is not stated in their instructions! which I pointed out to them.

Bruce.

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I received a replacement set of driveshafts from Alasdair on Thursday, my mechanic friend & I decided to refit a sound pair of standard shafts to prove the diff wasn't the cause of the noise, it wasn't as they are silent. One of the new pair of shafts seems to have even more play in it than the noisy one so I'm not sure I want to fit them, I will take it up with Alasdair directly, hopefully on Sunday. 

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On 2/7/2020 at 11:47 PM, iani said:

 

I received a replacement set of driveshafts from Alasdair on Thursday, my mechanic friend & I decided to refit a sound pair of standard shafts to prove the diff wasn't the cause of the noise, it wasn't as they are silent. One of the new pair of shafts seems to have even more play in it than the noisy one so I'm not sure I want to fit them, I will take it up with Alasdair directly, hopefully on Sunday. 

 

Ian, what was your motivation for the cv shafts? Still cannot convince myself getting them. 

Jochem

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5 minutes ago, JochemsTR said:

Ian, what was your motivation for the cv shafts? Still cannot convince myself getting them. 

Jochem

Hi Jochem!

I went to CV's because of the amount of greasing required as it was an annual event and how difficult it was to grease the outer U/Js. Then there was the risk of the stub axle breaking on 40+ year old drive shafts as what happen to a friend of mine, with me in the passenger seat. It does not give you a lot of confidence when you see a rear wheel pass you by when you are turning into my drive and the car becomes a 3 wheeler.  I went for the Lamora type which are made by a very large EU company making these types of products, so far no trouble. I think that they are based upon VW components. The only gripe that I have is that the splines need to be hand fitted and that would be beyond most people unless you have a toolmaking back ground like me. When I drove my car after fitting them, rear spring whine up was gone from the rear and lock up of splines.

Bruce.

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Hi,

I bought uprated classic driveshafts years ago

because my TR 4A is a classic car.

Rear hubs are new from Goodparts, U-joints are the uprated ones.

To grease the outer U-jointa I used a special tool. Easy job with it.

Ciao, Marco

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6 hours ago, JochemsTR said:

Ian, what was your motivation for the cv shafts? Still cannot convince myself getting them. 

Jochem

The warnings about the age of the original stub axles and the possibility of failure, I assumed that fitting an all new assembly would remove the risk of failure. I have fitted the best pair of the four original shafts/hubs that I have and I have no clonks at all. I wish I'd spent a little more and gone for uprated original style shafts, as it is I'm left holding a pair of new, unfitted shafts and a pair of hubs that have done less than 30 miles. I haven't heard anything from Rimmers yet, I spoke with them at Stoneleigh today however so perhaps tomorrow will bring some contact.

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7 minutes ago, jpmf said:

Or drill a 20mm hole in the underside of the trailing arm in line with the centre of the UJ

Hi jpmf,

that's lovely :lol:, to post THIS I've been really badly abused at a german TR-forum,

this is why I do not mention this anymore (btw a drill 15 mm also works).

Who want's to do this - only use a push grease gun.

One with a locking mouth you don't get off anymore.

Ciao, Marco

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3 minutes ago, Z320 said:

 

Who want's to do this - only use a push grease gun.

One with a locking mouth you don't get off anymore.

Ciao, Marco

Hi Marco,

could you rotate the drive shaft to remove the grease gun nozzle off the shaft nipple.?

 

Roger

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