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CV Driveshafts - disappointment


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After fitting CV driveshafts I was disappointed to still have a clunk from the rear, albeit a new one. My mechanic friend came round today and on investigating there appears to be too much play in the CV's, the video shows the N/S, the O/S isn't as bad but still has too much play. I shall be taking this up with the supplier tomorrow. 

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Hi Ian,

He will be in Stoneliegh  next week end at least I think he is. Dan had a problem and Alisdair soon sorted it. Perhaps pull them off and take them with you if you are going.

Of course they will be heavy and if a mate is going with you may I suggest one each?

Regards Harry.

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2 minutes ago, harrytr5 said:

Hi Ian,

He will be in Stoneliegh  next week end at least I think he is. Dan had a problem and Alisdair soon sorted it. Perhaps pull them off and take them with you if you are going.

Of course they will be heavy and if a mate is going with you may I suggest one each?

Regards Harry.

I bought these from a large supplier Harry so I have emailed them, I suspect I know who made them though so I have also emailed him. I will be taking them off on Saturday and intend taking them along next Sunday as you suggest.

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1 hour ago, Z320 said:

Your clunks could be from your whire wheels,

have you locked the caps tight?

Ciao Marco

 

The adaptors were torqued up and the spinners are on tightly

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Are you shure they are really tight?

I have reason to doubt this, because most are not tight enought and the toothed whire wheels move on the toothed adaptors.

Clonk-clonk-clonk every bend you drive, braking, eccelerating?

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1 hour ago, johnw said:

Just a thought, could it be a bit of play in the diff?

I think the movement is to easy to be the wheel splines.

I'm in the process of fitting CV shafts to my TR6, so fingers crossed.

John

The diff seemed fine before we fitted in John, the stub axles had their bearings/seals replaced and the input pinion seal was changed, there appeared to be very little backlash. 

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Indeed, some of the axles have it, some very less.

It is not in the joint itself but inside the joint, where the axle plugs in.

Seems to be a little bit difficult to get that job done without play or sticking.

 

That is why I welded mit axles together from two stock pieces with works toothed gears on ist.

 

Anyway that will not cause a clong, I would recommend to make a testdrive on steel wheels.

When braking the wheels turn backward and under accelerating in first they turn and give that noise.

Einzelteile neue Welle.jpg

Edited by TriumphV8
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On 2/2/2020 at 7:16 PM, Z320 said:

Are you shure they are really tight?

I have reason to doubt this, because most are not tight enought and the toothed whire wheels move on the toothed adaptors.

Clonk-clonk-clonk every bend you drive, braking, eccelerating?

checked the spinners tonight, they were tight. The noise is on taking up or letting drive go, not very loud but certainly noticeable.

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2 hours ago, Tom Fremont said:

No clunk with these:

https://www.goodparts.com/product-category/drive-train/upgraded-axle-hub-kits/

Took 5 hours to swap and what little clunk there was is gone. There is still a mild hum at 65-75 MPH which I hoped to retire :(. They are not dead silent either.

 

Tom

Goodparts certainly seem to be a sound supplier, the import cost will be huge however until we get a trade deal...err...bigly 

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2 hours ago, foster461 said:

Did you put them on your TR250 Tom ?.

On the driver CD6170L. The concourse one has originals, or at lease Taiwanese copies. 

If I were to do it over I'd go with his heavy duty U-joint kit which is easier to install, looks the biz and I'm betting every bit as smooth.

I'll see if the CVs pick up an MPG or two and report. He claims they're much more efficient.

 

Tom

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33 minutes ago, iani said:

Goodparts certainly seem to be a sound supplier, the import cost will be huge however until we get a trade deal...err...bigly 

The spitting image appears in TRAction ads regularly - I reckon they're already over on your side of the pond.

 

Tom

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I've fitted Classic Driving Development drive shafts to my TR6 about 5 years ago, and more recently to my GT6. Both sets appeared very well engineered and work perfectly. Both sets were bought directly from Alisdair.

If you have a problem, best to contact the supplier from whom you purchased.

Nigel

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2 minutes ago, Nigel Triumph said:

I've fitted Classic Driving Development drive shafts to my TR6 about 5 years ago, and more recently to my GT6. Both sets appeared very well engineered and work perfectly. Both sets were bought directly from Alisdair.

If you have a problem, best to contact the supplier from whom you purchased.

Nigel

I contacted both the supplier and Alasdair, to no surprise whatsoever I've heard nothing from the supplier yet.

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I put the goodparts CV drive shaft and hubs on my TR6 probably a decade or more ago and when my diff broke I added the LSD R200 differential also from Richard. All really well made. I did not do this on a whim but based on repeated rebuilt hub and diff failures.

Stan

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Just now, Z320 said:

You had clonks with the old classic drive shafts and still have the (same?) clonks with the new CV driveshafts?

No, different noises, my previous clonk was down to the O/S driveshaft bolts being loose, it's now the N/S that's the main noise as per the video.

 

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Even if you have the spinners tight the slightest amount of grease on the tapers can allow a clonk. Degreasing the adaptor taper and the matching one on the wheel might be worth a try. 

Edited by peejay4A
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11 hours ago, Z320 said:

With the play in my old driveshafts the car hopped like a rabbit driving it slowly in town at 3rd speed.

+1, same with my TR6. The new drive shafts made the rear suspension feel much more supple, presumably due to the lack of spline friction/locking with the new shafts. The difference was immediately noticeable even though the splines on the old shafts were still coated with grease.

Nigel

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12 hours ago, peejay4A said:

Even if you have the spinners tight the slightest amount of grease on the tapers can allow a clonk. Degreasing the adaptor taper and the matching one on the wheel might be worth a try. 

The outer driveshaft that goes into the hub doesn’t move when I move the CV end, therefore there is no movement at the adaptor.

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