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triumph Stag electrical problem any help much appreciated


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Just got back from Manchester Airport collecting my Missus, at the lights (huge M56/Bipass junction...of course!) and everything cuts out without warning (this is a Mk2 Auto) I still have lights and Starter motor but no ignition or warning lights indicator lights etc, all interior lights still work, Push car across junction then warning lights are back on, car starts, but only runs for 1/2 mile before fault repeats itself. Wait it starts again etc etc. Get home all fuses are intact of course...could this be the inhibitor switch? why would it be so intermittent,is it heat related. Its my Daily driver so if anybody has an idea please advise! have replaced the alternator, tried a different ignition switch and checked all fuses..its almost like there is an immobiliser at work
Many thanks
brian

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Hi Brian,

Sounds like a limited amount of fuel goes through and then cuts off, check the fuel pump cut off inertia switch passenger side (Right hand drive) engine bulkhead inside, Grey vertical cylinder about 5" long and 1 1/4 " dia (byepass it with jumper wires)  and see if that sorts out. Check to see if there's an additional wire or something spliced in line near it ...maybe an immobiliser from a previous owner ? You should hear the pump ticking if it's a Lucas model and working, it's positioned in the boot underneath and behind the fuel pipe filler.

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Having owned 2 Stags in the past, one recurant problem was the fuses not making good contact in the holder. and / or the clips which hold the fuses not making good contact (via a rivet) with the wires behind the fuse box.

Bob.

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On A TR6 the inhibitor switch only cuts out the pump, not the warning lights and ignition. Is this different on a MK 2?

If you do not trust the inhibitor switch,  you can by pass is.

Waldi

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24 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Having owned 2 Stags in the past, one recurant problem was the fuses not making good contact in the holder. and / or the clips which hold the fuses not making good contact (via a rivet) with the wires behind the fuse box.

Bob.

I had the same problem with a Mini 1275.

dodgy fuse box

 

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The fuses themselves can go dicky.  Test OK but in service the stop working. The fuse wire may not be making cntact with the solder joint.

Replace the fuses do no test them.

I would have thought the inhibit switch only looked at the pump.

It sounds heat related.   When it happens next get into the engine bay and feel as much of the loom connectors as you can get at.

Roger

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Given the fact that some of the dash lights and functions stop working it appears that part of your electrical system is losing power .  Two possible reasons...ignition switch or fuse box... The 2.5th reason seems very unlikely - broken wire on the loom

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Nothing soi far has had any effect as I say very much like an immobiliser....but...Right then...been outside had yet another check all to no avail, however in my changing the fuses...again...I accidentally bridged Battery control to Ignition control...everything came on...please explain, and is there a fix that might get me mobile given these circumstances?

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19 hours ago, bonnietiler said:

Nothing soi far has had any effect as I say very much like an immobiliser....but...Right then...been outside had yet another check all to no avail, however in my changing the fuses...again...I accidentally bridged Battery control to Ignition control...everything came on...please explain, and is there a fix that might get me mobile given these circumstances?

If you by-pass the ignition switch and fuses and make a direct feed from battery to pump and ignition you may have a temporary fix.

Use an inline fuse, like 20A to protect the wiring. 
Switch on only a moment before starting and switch off once “arrived” to avoid draining the battery and cooking the coil.

But make it a neat installation, as temporary wirings can cause failure like short-circuits and fire.

Waldi

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23 minutes ago, bonnietiler said:

Yes my thoughts too, I replaced the switch with a new one...no difference

Then it's gotta be 2.5... because you say that you can power up the circuit by shorting to permanent live...there's no power coming out of the switched live wire

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Surely it's better to find the fault and fix it rather than cobble together some temporary arrangement which has the potential to cause a larger calamity if not done properly? 

With respect, it sounds as though you are employing poke-and-hope methods rather than doing proper diagnostic checks. Simple circuit tracing using a bulb with wire tails will tell you where the break in supply is. Do you have a circuit schematic for the car?  If not there is one of sorts that can be downloaded here (service operations manual)

http://www.stagowners.website/features/downloads

If you can't do that yourself why not employ an auto-electrician who will probably find and cure it quite quickly. 

Edited by RobH
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I agree with RobH comments.

If the warning lights are not working then it's an electrical fault i.e. The ignition circuit. Start with checking the components, and wiring between the battery and the ignition switch. Check the ignition switch itself, and then the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil.

Dave

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Switch was live and clearly the fuse-box was live when given 12v, the fault was within the loom twixt ignition socket and fuse-box , I connected a separate wire to the Ignition wire pre junction box and routed it to the rear of the appropriate fuse using spade connector as original and all works perfectly.

In the summer maybe a sub-loom swap?

Cheers

brian

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  • 7 months later...

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