DenisMc Posted January 30, 2020 Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 Hi Guys, the passenger door window of my TR5 is initially very stiff to wind down. If I continue to wind it up and down it does free off somewhat. Before I break into the door to investigate do you have any idea of what the cause might be and any potential remedies? Regards, Denis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 30, 2020 Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 Hi Denis, is the window stiff with the door open? - the glass can grab on the various rubber seals. The vertical channels can become stiff if the felt deteriorates The vertical alignment of the vertical channels need also to be in-line together. On the regulator there is a big spring. This is to counter the weight of the glass so assists in the upward winding of the glass. If the spring breaks or becomes detached it could be quite heavy to turn in the upward direction. I think you need to get inside the door to see what is going on. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DenisMc Posted January 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 Thanks Roger, as always! It makes no difference whether the door is open or closed. The fact that it frees up after a few attempts perhaps suggests that the spring is present. There is a bit of a creaking sound as the window is wound down, which does suggest that the channels are stiff. You are correct, I need to get in there.... Regards, Denis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 30, 2020 Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 Hi Denis, the creaking sound may be the regulator spring tightening up. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 30, 2020 Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 Hi Dennis, I was refurbing my glass guides today, and was surpriced how much clearance the glass has in the guides. So I cannot imagine how these would give any resistance, unless maybe something broke or worked loose. Do as Roger says, open her. As a side note: I bought some Velcro with a sticky back and put that in the original guides after cleaning and painting them, but am not satisfied: too much play, so I will remove the Velcro and look for a heavier (thicker) quality. Had to replace a couple of rivets too, so my guides where not secure held in place. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 During the strip for my current TR5 restoration I found that the assembly of vertical guides had corroded and become partially detached from the bottom locating bracket and were offering very little control in glass position during raising and lowering. This could only be seen with the door cards removed. BTW, I'll be looking for replacement metal guides at Stoneleigh if anyone can help? With regard to the rubber/furflex replaceable guide in the metal vertical guide try this Woolies product. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1649/small-window-channel Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 As a follow-up on my earlier post above: I measured the thickness of the “standard” Velcro, it was approx. 1 mm (much depending on how much you press the vernier calliper). Then I bought some “heavy duty”, from Tesa (but other makes probably have similar thicknesses), and with this thicker grade, the clearance between the steel U-channel and the window glas is “zero”. The guides still move over the glass with very gentle force, which will probably get even better in use. I had to cut 50 mm wide Velcro in 10 mm wide strands, 3 strands needed per channel, little under 50 cm each. My channels has some rust to, but grit-blasting and painting gave a good result. Happy with the end result. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 14 hours ago, Dave McDonald said: BTW, I'll be looking for replacement metal guides at Stoneleigh if anyone can help? With regard to the rubber/furflex replaceable guide in the metal vertical guide try this Woolies product. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1649/small-window-channel Dave McD Good luck with finding guides as the new ones are now NLS so good s/hand ones are very quickly snapped up. That Woolies channel is too thick in the side walls to work. Best replacement is either wider velcro strip that fits right in the channel to replace all 3 sides in one go or go to Land Rover spares stockists and buy the complete window channel that they sell in 2 mtr lengths for early Series Land Rovers and then fit the original brackets and nylon top guides to them. Pete Fenlon used to do this for members but gave up doing it a few years ago. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 Had this on my Tr4, it was that the two glass channels were not in exactly the same plane, so the glass was effectivly 'Twisted' between the channels causing tightness. Suggest you undo one channel, so it can move, see the difference in raising/lowering the glass then adjust properly to suit the car. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnwill Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 Similar problem for me at the moment, the window wasn't going down evenly. Took the door panel off, and the glass is coming out of the rear of the horizontal channel. While winding it up and down, holding the glass in place, it still seemed a little stiff in the rear vertical channel, and when not holding the glass, it definitely "sticks" in the rear channel. They are the original channels, so suspect the felt is not in great shape, but intend to remove to check everything anyway. Wondering if the vertical channel is fixed, maybe the glass would remain in the horizontal channel, although the rubber in that doesn't look good either.. Can the glass be removed with the bottom channel in place? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 You would need to remove one or both of the weather strips to get the glass out and back in with the lower channel still attached to the glass. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 Hi John, Normally the glass is very very well stuck into the horizontal regulator channel. You can only (usually) knock the glass out with it laying flat on a bench and then it is still a battle. So, are you saying the glass is popping out of the channel? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnwill Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 1 minute ago, RogerH said: Hi John, Normally the glass is very very well stuck into the horizontal regulator channel. You can only (usually) knock the glass out with it laying flat on a bench and then it is still a battle. So, are you saying the glass is popping out of the channel? Roger Hi Roger Yes, when lowering, the glass comes out at the rear of the horizontal channel. If I apply a bit of pressure to the top of the glass, it goes down ok, although feels a little stiff in that rear upright channel. I read other threads about having to drift the bottom channel off the glass. Seems mine has done it for me at one end.... I tried packing out the rear of the channel but couldn't press the glass into the lower channel fully afterwards. It worked for a bit, then came out again. Window out job even to do that then... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 Hi John, window out. Door card off, weather strips off top of door at glass cut-out, unhook the two special clips that hold the horizontal rail to the regulator and then lift the glass up and out of the door. Remove glass from the rail. Remove the rubber. You may well find that the rail is quite rusty and it is that that has caused the rail to open out. Consider gluing the rubber to the glass (desperation). The fun bit is refitting the weather strip clips Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 26 minutes ago, johnwill said: Hi Roger Yes, when lowering, the glass comes out at the rear of the horizontal channel. If I apply a bit of pressure to the top of the glass, it goes down ok, although feels a little stiff in that rear upright channel. I read other threads about having to drift the bottom channel off the glass. Seems mine has done it for me at one end.... I tried packing out the rear of the channel but couldn't press the glass into the lower channel fully afterwards. It worked for a bit, then came out again. Window out job even to do that then... When refitting the bottom channel you need to nip it up a bit or the glass will pop out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 Hi John, I have just realised that you have a TR5/250 which is significantly different to a TR4/4A that I described above. However you will still need to get the glass out to see what is happening Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 You also need to wind the window down and spray some silicon lube down the front and back channels I do this every year Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DenisMc Posted February 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 Thank you all for your many helpful suggestions! I have now got into the door but so far can't find the cause of the stiffness. The assistance spring is fine and the raising and lowering mechanism is well greased. I have noticed that the Tie Rod 750165 (LH) is missing. This is item 130 in the Moss Europe illustration. Does anyone know what this does? It appears to be no longer available. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 (edited) 8 minutes ago, DenisMc said: Thank you all for your many helpful suggestions! I have now got into the door but so far can't find the cause of the stiffness. The assistance spring is fine and the raising and lowering mechanism is well greased. I have noticed that the Tie Rod 750165 (LH) is missing. This is item 130 in the Moss Europe illustration. Does anyone know what this does? It appears to be no longer available. Its supposed to stop the slides from spreading apart when the glass is lowered/raised, easy to make from some stiff fencing wire. That maybe contributing to the stiffness as the channels are spreading along with the glass coming out of the horizontal channel. Stuart. Edited February 6, 2020 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 Hi Denis, if you get stuck for a tie rod I believe I have one in the garage from a TR4/4A (they are the same as 5 & 6). It appears they are handed and not sure what mine are. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 4 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Denis, if you get stuck for a tie rod I believe I have one in the garage from a TR4/4A (they are the same as 5 & 6). It appears they are handed and not sure what mine are. Roger Its only the way they are bent that makes them handed. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Kirk Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 On 2/5/2020 at 3:24 PM, ntc said: You also need to wind the window down and spray some silicon lube down the front and back channels I do this every year Hi, Neil Thank you for the tip I did the above this afternoon and the windows are so much easier to operate now Cheers Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DenisMc Posted February 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2020 Hi All. Thank you for your very helpful replies. I managed to buy a tie rod from Revington TR, which arrived this morning. I have managed to fit it to engage with the front and rear glass run channels following the picture in the blue Triumph TR5-PI Workshop Manual Supplement but as I wind the window down it fouls with the rod. Is the rod supposed to be clamped between the glass stop bracket and the inner door frame perhaps? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 10, 2020 Report Share Posted February 10, 2020 Fitted like this with the hooked ends on the outer side of the slide. This is a 4a door but they’re the same Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DenisMc Posted February 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2020 Stuart, thanks for your very fast response. I think i have sorted it out with the help of a mirror! On my TR5 the glass stop bracket has a small tab, facing into the door. I hooked the tie rod behind it then bent it down and how the rod is clear of the window regulator mechanism. Looking at rod in your photo, the diameter of the rod that Revington TR has used would appear to be smaller in diameter. I have measured it at about 2.6mm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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