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LHD to RHD Pedal Box Query

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October 1973 RHD TR6 CF chassis.

I’ve read up on what is required and ignoring throttle pedal it seems quite complex especially in the ‘How to Restore a TR6’ book. Here they use the LHD brake pedal as a RHD clutch pedal then modifying it substantially plus welding on a new top extension to activate the master cylinder as well as adding a side extension. Then one buys a new RHD brake pedal or cuts and modifies again substantially the LHD clutch pedal into a RHD brake pedal.

Is there not a much simpler way?

Photo below of my current LHD pedal box.


For clutch can I not simply cut the tube to the left of the clutch pedal shaft and move it to the far left. Then swap the M/c activation arm to right of it, rotate 180 degrees and align the M/c arm with the slot above. Will need to chop existing tube into spacers for all alignment and then just weld all together.

For the brake, I could possibly just leave it all alone although for foot pedal alignment I may need to chop tube to left of pedal shaft and shift left. Then make up simple parallel shaft to align and operate servo (+ brake light switch) and add (really move) spacer to far right. For extra foot pedal alignment, I may need to put a dog leg in the pedal shaft.

To me, this seems lot easier. How have others done this modification?

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Just done it are you going to stoneleigh? If so I will have one there for people to look at / buy. Just a bit of patience required really and one or two bits to fabricate. The accelerator pedal  is a little more difficult and the new ones you buy from moss are not correct in as much as the bracket that holds the accelerator cable isn’t welded in the correct place so needs to be adjusted. Regards clem

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Thanks Clem. So did you follow more or less my method or did you follow the 'How to restore a TR6' book method? I still think my method is much simpler as welding is straightforward.

Can you post a picture, please? No, not plannig to go to Stoneleigh.

Haven't looked at throttle pedal in detail but do not see too much of a problem modifying the LHD one. I may end up with a cable operated mechanism rather than the rod mechanism.

Cutting and welding is not an issue for me.

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Yes but that’s a lot of photos!

basically I 

1. Removed the pedals from the tubes 

2.welded the clutch pedal at the end of one tube and as you suggest manufactured a piece to operate the master clutch cylinder and align with the slot. 

3. Rewelded the brake pedal to the tube and using the piece of metal taken from the clutch tube welded this to operate the master brake cylinder and strengthened with a piece of steel to the pedal.

i also cut the pedal stalks and realigned them to suit the foot operation.

i did have a Rhd pedal box to copy though.takes about an hour. 

This is why it’s easier to show people how I do it maybe I need to do a u tube film?  Cheers Clem 


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Thanks Clem. Seems exactly as I plan to do it. Just one photo of the finished pedal box as per my photo would be fine but if difficult, I have enough confirmation.

I'm now thinking about the throttle pedal and am just windering if I can add that to the clutch & brake support shaft on the far right. Still pondering this.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I proceeded to follow my method of converting my pedal box from LHD to RHD and to be honest, it seems a lot simpler than the ‘How to restore a TR6’ book describes. My steps to get to the following result were this:

Use LHD clutch pedal and cut off the support shaft tube to move the pedal to the far left. Cut the tube with the LHD clutch lever arm and turn 180 degrees and align with the (new) clutch slot. Use these two pieces and weld up all three pieces using the cut off remainder as a far right spacer.

Note that there are four thin bushes (two clutch, two brake) on the shaft so punch these out before cutting. These can also be used for centering the tube pieces when welding but be careful so tack weld first and remove before final weld.

For the brake pedal, again cut off tube to locate brake pedal to far left and re-weld remaining tube to the right. Make up simple lever to locate on servo unit and weld onto tube. I did not add the bracing bit of the genuine RHD pedal as mine was very strong and there is no sideways force anyway - obviously optional.

The advantages are that all pedals move 70mm nearer the steering column centre line and you can use the USA clutch master cylinder without modification or replacement. You save a lot of money too!



I also made my own clutch master cylinder support bracket saving buying one.




I also made my own new throttle pedal assembly saving buying one and simply welded the lower pedal bit to my assembly. This also avoided the rather complex genuine unit and the high cost f buying one.

As part of this exercise I made sure all pedals were the same height and distance apart.

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  • 9 months later...


Thanks for the ifo on this thread. I am about to start this part of my restoration and was thinking along these lines. The photos on your thread have been removed....would it be possible to have them resubmitted please?

A question that remains in my mind is why do you need to adjust the brake pedal at all as it does align with the servo as it stands? Would it not be possible to just cut the tube on the clutch pedal moving it approximately 12 mm to the left so that it aligns with the slot for the clutch master cylinder?



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Ah, sorry. I re-arranged my photo hostingn site. However here are a new sequence of photos. All in all it was pretty easy and I simply ended up modifying the existing LHD parts but did make up a throttle bearing bracket to take a cable.


















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I will add that to make the throttle bearing better, you could use a proper bearing (many use skate board bearings) but I simply used a bolt and washer(s) bearing. I used that on my other sports car and it has survived for a good number of years. I may still swap to the proper bearing as it is more robust and less of a 'bodge'.

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Did not answer your question.


You need to move the brake pedal to the left and I did that as much as I could. I matched the pedal positions and gap to the right of the  right of the throttle pedal to that of my tintop and also the pedal height. You need to bend the brake pedal to bend to the left. In the end I added a short strengthing bar to brace this bend in case I had weakened the brake pedal and in effect is wht the RHD kit yu buy is like.

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