4 cylinder head removal

[trchris]

Guys

About to remove cylinder head from the 4a will it disturb the liner height in any way ? help and advice is always appreciated

Chris

 

 

[RogerH]

Hi Chris 

removal of the head should not move the liners but do not be tempted to move the crank unless the liners are clamped down.

 

The first time I took my 4A head off I had all sorts of trouble.

I then found that the front exhaust manifold stud had been screwed in so far it was clamping onto the front off side block stud

If it proves difficult to lift consider using the engine hoist.

 

Roger 

[trchris]

Hi Roger 

thanks for your advice I wasn't sure and didn't want to end up with massive rebuild another question I have a stanpart copper gasket  came from previous owner

 new but age unknown is it better to use this or buy new?

Chris

 

[RogerH]

Hi Chris,

is it solid copper or copper composite. 

Either way there is no reason that it should not be fitted.

 

Roger

[Ian Vincent]

Remove the manifold studs using double nuts and then remove the head studs using the same technique.  I appreciate that sometimes the studs don't want to shift but to be honest, I have never had one not come out yet although I might have helped one or two by MIG welding a nut onto the end.  New manifold studs are cheap enough and if a head stud is rusted in solid then it probably needs replacing as well.

When putting it all back together use copperslip on the threads before replacing the studs in the head.

Rgds Ian

[trchris]

Thanks Ian will do as you suggested was going to remove manifold studs as per Rogers post but hadn't thought of removing head studs 

ahead of replacing is the copper gasket replaced dry  or is any sealing  compound needed? and is there any thing else I need to be aware of?

only removing to change cam followers and possibly cam (no over heating or water loss problems)

Chris 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Lebro]

If it is solid copper head gasket then you should anneal it prior to fitting. Get it almost red hot all over, then drop into cold water.

Bob.

[trchris]

Hi Bob

I don't think its a solid copper gasket it looks like two sheets to me pressed together

Chris

[Motorsport Mickey]

Chris, 

That sounds like a standard compound gasket,... copper sheet, asbestos mix, copper sheet. Now it's been used you don't reuse it in the engine but clean the surface of the gasket quickly so there is nothing flaky or bits of carbon etc lurking there and it will be reused when torqueing up the engine during the rebuild process.

You can buy some "Wellseal" a dark brown shellac sealer if you wish (it's what the factory used, so I do to) or your choice of non setting sealant, you'll be using it in many places throughout the build process. The cam and cam followers will need checking and measuring against the cam bearings in place in the block, many people will consider a cam bearing change with new cam and followers a worthwhile investment whilst the engine is stripped down to it's undies, it's taking you a lot of effort to get it there and "short" money spent here will prevent "long" money and more time being spent later.

Mick Richards

[james christie]

2 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Now it's been used you don't reuse it in the engine but clean the surface of the gasket quickly so there is nothing flaky or bits of carbon etc lurking there and it will be reused when torqueing up the engine during the rebuild process.

Can you expand on this as I haven’t understood what you are suggesting

’confused’ from Brittany

aka james

[Lebro]

A composite head gasket can only be used once. But if fitting new liners you will need to check the protrusion of those liners above the block.

To do this you need to torque the head down onto them (to compress the figure of 8 gaskets) using a gasket between head & block. your 2nd hand gasket will do for that purpose.

Once torqued down, the head is then removed to make the measurements.

Bob.

[Motorsport Mickey]

 

5 minutes ago, Lebro said:

A composite head gasket can only be used once. But if fitting new liners you will need to check the protrusion of those liners above the block.

To do this you need to torque the head down onto them (to compress the figure of 8 gaskets) using a gasket between head & block. your 2nd hand gasket will do for that purpose.

Once torqued down, the head is then removed to make the measurements.

Bob.

^ +1 ...a Gold Star and a tick.

Mick Richards

[trchris]

Hi Mick/Bob

I was removing head to investigate intermittent tappet noise on tick over every so often sounded like one tappet out of adjustment .

Checked clearances  over a week or so and found one to either be loose or near correct so off with the head ( hence the post as first time attempted this)  and found two followers to be pitted on camshaft face , good news is cam lobes ok. Regarding head gasket I was given a gasket in amongst others with the car so was going to use as its a stanpart one(slight marked due to age in very small places but using some very fine wire wool has cleaned up) now off to find some new followers!! 

Chris

 

[Lebro]

Understood 

[Motorsport Mickey]

On board 

[james christie]

Ah thanks. - not only do I lose my European citizenship on Friday midnight but I have already lost some of my English.

I’m more or less at the same stage after a minor (copper) head gasket blow possibly caused by replacing an old 4lb rad cap by a new 7lb. The liners are all at the same protrusion 3-5 thou

Trying hard to motivate myself to get on with it....

james

 

[trchris]

Hi all

in a position to re fit the head do you lightly coat both sides of a composite copper gasket  completely with wellseal ? or just certain areas

Chris

Edited January 30, 2020 by trchris

[Motorsport Mickey]

Just follow the Workshop manual as regards reconditioning,... I do. "coat a new cylinder head gasket with jointing compound and fit over the cylinder head studs.

Mick Richards