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Stuttering TR6


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Dear TR lovers,

I have a problem which seems to be ‘unfixable’.

The car pulls reasonable when hot but at stationary speeds 40, 50, 60 etc without accelerating or loosen the gaspedal the car stutters all the time. When cold it takes quite some time before the choke can be pushed in completely. And than still if I try to accelerate, let’s say from 20 in 2nd gear it kind of suffocates and then pull wich hurts not only me but also the rear axle.

What has been done until now (and I hope I name the parts correctly)

Needles & needletube of both Strombergs renewed

New membranes

New vacuum hoses

Valve clearance

Filters

Bougiecables

Distributor cap and coil

 

Brake membrane is ok as the engine performed as lousy when the vacuum hose to the master brake cilynder was disconnected and it was clear that my brakes weren’t assisted anymore.

At present I really don’t know where to look elsewhere. Hope you have some tips what to tackle next.

Appreciate and looking forward to your respons(es).

 

Best regards from this newby. My recently bought TR6 is in very good condition, completely restored in 2005 and still like new.

it is the carburetor version imported from the USA in 2000 and build in October 1974

 

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Welcome to this forum Sjef.

Have you checked the condition of the points and condensor and rotor?

I that’s all ok, also check timing, both at idle and see if it properly advances.

Waldi

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@Waldi

Points, condensator and rotor renewed.

As there was a big ‘tear’ in the distributor cap I thought to have found the cause but no.

@aardvark

Bought a new Lucas set. Don’t know if that was the right choice. There is no ‘click’ I used to hear when pushing the cap on the spark plug.

By the way the only part I didn’t change yet are the 6 bougies. All white so a lean mixture. When I pull the choke when hot it doesn’t change the stuttering much.

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Hi Sjef

are all 6 plugs white?

if so and as you have two carbs perhaps the fuel pump isnt working right or fuel filter blocked?

if only 3 plugs are white then suspect that carb

good luck!

steve

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Dear Steve,

All six indeed are white. 
Looking, during my attempts to eliminate the stuttering, at that old fashioned pump and wondered if an electric pump wouldn’t be better.

It might well be that this part is not working properly anymore, This might well be my next job.

Thanks.

Sjef.

 

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Hi Sjef

I think you are on the right track with suspecting the carbs. Have a carefully look at the temperature compensators and the bypass valves plus make sure that the float chamber vents are open. Also worth checking are the hoses for the emission system if it is still fitted and if not make sure any open ports have been plugged.

This may help http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-20/TR6-20.html

George

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This may be relevant or not.

i have just had days of trying to get a 4cyl running smooth both standing and driving .Changed everything including distributor. compression tests .  it finally turned out to be faulty spark plugs ,solved with the 3rd set of new plugs.

2 sets which failed were NGK

ROY

Edited by roy53
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Sjef,

To check the fuel pump, disconnect the feed to the carbs and crank the engine.
use a jar, the fuel should flow out in nice blurbs. Be careful with petrol, sparks, hot engine parts. Best done with ignition off (feed wire off the coil).

Do you have nice blue sparks by the way?

Waldi

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15 hours ago, roy53 said:

This may be relevant or not.

i have just had days of trying to get a 4cyl running smooth both standing and driving .Changed everything including distributor. compression tests .  it finally turned out to be faulty spark plugs ,solved with the 3rd set of new plugs.

2 sets which failed were NKG

ROY

There has been a lot of fake NGK plugs around especially on Ebay How to tell a fake NGK plug

Stuart.

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Don't laugh. You didn't put some diesel fuel in the tank by mistake. We had a TR3 that did this. The engine did run but backfiring and terribly rough. The plugs were all white.

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Make sure that you have dampening oil in the carb piston. The purpose of the dampening is to slow the rising of the piston and needle to slightly enrichen the mixture. If oil is there you can try using a slightly thicker oil. 

I am assuming you have a carb equipped engine and not FI. You did mention Strombergs. Also is the diagraphm intact.

 

Dean T. 

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@Dean

and other persons sharing their thoughts. Appreciate very much.

I did mention membranes but perhaps it’s called diaphragm. These are new and the correct red oil was put in the dampers. It is interesting to read remarks about the spark plugs. I will check this evening as well as putting the old spark cable’s in place to see if it will run better then. In my memory it didn’t ‘stutter’ during my 1st drive while still in possession of the previous owner.

Roy did mention that only the third set of (non) NGK plugs solved the problem. Would be good to hear the specs of those plugs. I’d rather pay more for the best than cheaper second best.

Also did I made a right choice to buy a Lucas set of spark plug cables?  
 

Oh and no diesel was used. :-)

 

Edited by Sjef
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These spark plugs are mounted. Don’t know where the ‘R’ stands for. The P/N seems correct.

9C5725F0-DC46-411A-B078-7252F0836F48.jpeg

A59D9190-271C-4964-A3BC-F27CF139DBA9.jpeg

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Hi Sjef

The R is for Resistor, ie the plugs have resistance built in to reduce radio interference.

you probably do not need the R plugs but i doubt they’ll cause problem

steve

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New plastic points, if fitted without a bit of grease, can wear very fast. I would check the gap and set the timing by turning the distributor slighlty to get the fastest tick-over. The timing marks on the pulley/damper may have slipped. 

Best static timing for a low compression head will be nearer 18 BTDC than the book value for PI engines.

Peter

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Sjef

For what they cost get some new plugs from a reputable dealer so as to avoid the counterfeit ones, if it cures your troubles great and if not you have at least got a spare set for the future. As an extra check have you got another car that your plugs can be tried in?

George 

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@harlequin

I will buy a new set for sure as soon as I have determined which brand & P/N is compatible. As far as I know now the ones I have should be the correct type. Don’t know if there are better alternatives (quality wise).

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And what is the difference between 6 & 5?

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I’ve converted to triple  electrode plugs too, in my case Bosch W7DTC.

the NGK BP6ES plugs work fine though, can’t say iv’e noticed any material difference with the triple electrode plugs.

steve

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17 hours ago, Sjef said:

These spark plugs are mounted. Don’t know where the ‘R’ stands for. The P/N seems correct.

9C5725F0-DC46-411A-B078-7252F0836F48.jpeg

A59D9190-271C-4964-A3BC-F27CF139DBA9.jpeg

They look like fakes to me if you check my link above to see the difference, Positioning of the name and the main body colour is wrong.

Stuart.

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Wow that's weird to hear as I am working in the aircraft industry and 'counterfeit' or 'bogus parts' are a horror in this branche.

Hopefully my newly acquired spark plugs are the real deal. Will let you know soon.

BTW My mechanic who installed the two needles informed me that these were of the wrong (too thick) type. Coming Monday the correct ones will be installed so I REALLY hope this will do the trick.

To be continued. 

Thanks so far. 

Sjef

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