Phil M Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Hi, I finally got to the bottom of the TR6 ‘curse’ of bad starting on my ‘6’, the Throttle Bodies and Distributor needed refurbishment, fitted a new Petronix ignition and coil. When bad starting still continued I looked at the Choke cables and found the MU mixer cable while still connected had concertinaed within the choke barrel, I put this down to the choke knob being rotated over the years, there was still movement in the inner cable but insufficient to move the MU mixture sufficient. I’ve soldered new inner cables and the engine now starts first or second turn of the key. But, now I’m ensure how far the MU mixer lever should move under full choke, can anyone please advise? Thanks Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 Hi Phil, the lever should be pushed fully home (to the right) by the cable if the choke and TB high idle cable are not in use (choke knob pushed fully in). The ratio between air and additional fuel is done by the cam on the TB high idle. I followed the WSM for how to adjust both cables and this works ok. I have an AFR sensor and gage installed, it is nice to see the AFR changing if you change the amount of choke. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 Just had a look at mine. It moves 30mm at the C/L of the cable pin from off to full on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
len1 Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 (edited) Phil. Keep an eye on the end of the cable as it may get caught on the battery box and not quite turn the mu off. I had to trim mine as it was getting caught. Len Edited January 17, 2020 by len1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil M Posted January 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 That's useful information guys, thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 I used to adjust mine to that with choke off there was just perceptible slack in the cable at the MU end (so you know when it's off it really is off). Then adjust the fast idle cam to suit that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SteveB21 Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 Hi Waldi Slightly off-topic but how & where did you install the AFR sensor? Thanks Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 Hi Steve, I installed it in one of the 2 down pipes. I bought the SS threaded bung from Mr. Ali (I got two for less than 10 euros including shipping), trial- fitted where it would fit, then removed the down-pipes, drilled the hole and welded with MIG with SS weld filler. It is important the sensor cannot fill with water /condensibles, so it is self draining. It is a sort of 1st step for conversion to EFI for me, but meanwhile I can benefit from the “feedback” how the engine is running. I bought the Innovate MTXL-Plus AFR sensor kit which is including gage and cables between sensor and gage, which was recommended by Andreas (Triumph V8 on this forum).https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/mtxl_plus.php Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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