Icarus60 Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 I'm just fitting a Ford Focus switch. For info. The unit is not polarity sensitive. The centre terminal is a live feed to the unit. The left hand terminal is marked NC and feeds live to pump/pump relay/solenoid valve or whatever you need energised, when operating normally , but goes dead when the switch is knocked. The right terminal is marked NO and is normally dead but becomes live when the switch is knocked. I didn't get any wiring with the unit and will 2.8 non insulated female spade connectors. Hope this is useful. Regards Rog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 Hi , I sorted a couple of these switches, one for the three and one for the 6 they confused me to start with, ( dont take much) They Work differently than the 6 push the switch in and it is armed shake it and the switch release, switching of the pump, I often use the one in the 6 to switch the fuel pump of if I am playing around with the ignition, however cant do that with the new one, so i think i will put it in line with the original, it dous make a lot of sense fitting one, Cheers pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 Has anyone seen that awful spectacle online of a shiny sidescreen TR catching fire and burning fast into a shrivelled frame? Fortunately, the driver got out in the nick of time. I can't imagine what it must have been like watching his car burn and being helpless. He had no switch fitted to the outside scuttle, or on or below the dash. Yet the float in SUs can get stuck and fuel seep. It's a must. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 38 minutes ago, David Brancaleone said: Has anyone seen that awful spectacle online of a shiny sidescreen TR catching fire and burning fast into a shrivelled frame? Fortunately, the driver got out in the nick of time. I can't imagine what it must have been like watching his car burn and being helpless. He had no switch fitted to the outside scuttle, or on or below the dash. Yet the float in SUs can get stuck and fuel seep. It's a must. Alternatively stick with the original mechanical pump. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 Horrible, David. But would an inertia switch, or even an external cut out have saved the car? Even on a carburettor car, an electric fuel pump should stop when the ignition switch is turned off. The inertia switch is to cater for the situation when the driver is incapacitated by the impact. Competition rules demand an external cut-out, that a marshal can operate. This should disconnect the battery itself, so no possibility of anything electrical continuing to run. But I've seen a rally car catch fire under the bonnet, and continue to burn, despite the cut-out AND the fire extinguisher switches being triggered, because the cut-out did not disconnect the radiator fan, which blew away the extinguishant and continued to feed the fire with oxygen! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 If the electric fuel pump switched of due to an accident, would the petrol still siphon out? Is there an electrical shut of valve that could be incorporated in the fuel line just after the pump ? I had the fuel pipe come away from the inline filter, pump was a phaset, luckly the car had just started up so the engine wasn't hot It shot fuel out like a garden hose, I was lucky , is there a presure switch that could turn the fuel of if the presure is reduced Looking at the fitting the petrol had sofented the plastic of the in line filter, I now have a glass filter Pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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