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I remember an article in the Mag about a heater modification that took the  feed for the heater matrix from the water pump housing. I noticed  that my TR6 CR  has a blanked take off already. I presume that a TR 250 housing which would have the take off for the heated carb manifold , has been fitted in the past. My question  is,-  If I took the feed from  the this blanked off outlet  to the control valve  would the water temperature be higher than the current  set up that feeds the control valve via the extension adapter from the cylinder head.? My heater is a Clayton uprated one but I am still disappointed  with output. I have an uprated control valve ready to fit  with higher flow (FX Taxi !!) so was thinking of doing the mod at the same  time  if  there would be an advantage.

MARK  

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Hi Mark,

I'm not sure what the mod that you're referring to is, but as far as I know in the TR6, the heater matrix feed already comes from the back of the water pump housing as per the attached pic. This was mine prior to strip down.

P1030904.JPG

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Hi Sean

I  am pretty sure that is the return pipe from the heater matrix to the water pump. I notice from your picture that you appear also to have a blanked outlet higher up on the side of the thermostat housing. I can see the blanking bolt head. Maybe I should have said thermostat housing instead of  water pump housing in my post. What I need to know  is  if  i take the feed from this outlet on the side of the THERMOSTAT housing will it provide a higher  temperature  than the normal feed at the other end of the cylinder head.  A great picture Sean which helps explain what I am trying to suggest !  I hope !!!

MARK 

 

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I was also thinking that using a copper pipe to do this mod mounted close to my sports exhaust manifold and under my triple weber carbs, to feed the heater,  might pick up some radiated heat from the exhaust manifolds. This might also give faster demisting ?? !!

MARK

 

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Mark,

Of course you are right. The pipe in my picture is the return pipe. I'm afraid I don't know the answer to your question and hopefully someone else will. What I can say is that I rebuilt mine in the same configuration as before but with a new stainless return pipe, heater matrix and heater valve and the heat output is very good indeed. Probably too good.

Sean

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5 minutes ago, SeanF said:

Mark,

Of course you are right. The pipe in my picture is the return pipe. I'm afraid I don't know the answer to your question and hopefully someone else will. What I can say is that I rebuilt mine in the same configuration as before but with a new stainless return pipe, heater matrix and heater valve and the heat output is very good indeed. Probably too good.

Sean

Hi Mark,

I agree with Sean! Are you sure that the M/S pipe from the bulk head to pump is not blocked or restricted or the M/s pipework through the bulk head, as this fitting rots and collapses. I have had problems in that area in the past, and would only use s/s replacements now. Lastly make sure that the heater valve is fully open in the open position?

Bruce.

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Thanks John. 

I do have a lazer thermometer. Should be able to see which feed is hottest with it. Maybe the copper pipe run close to the tubular exhaust manifold might help. Going to check the return pipe for blockage as well. Going to go for winter rated thermostat. You can bet I will get it going red hot by summer!!!! 

MARK

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