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Broken stub axle?


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My joy at getting a good result on the day I has now been tempered by a breakdown, does this look like it could be the stub axle? I can’t fit my jack underneath to check it out.

 

DCD2C2E6-C0F2-4727-8682-AC9EB2D57815.jpeg

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More likely the lower inner wishbone box mount has broken away from the chassis Im afraid.

Stuart.

Marks TR5 086.jpg

Edited by stuart
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8 minutes ago, stuart said:

More likely the lower inner wishbone box mount has broken away from the chassis Im afraid.

Stuart.

Marks TR5 086.jpg

They look to be intact Stuart, from what I can see from engine side anyway. I have just rebuilt this side, only the stub axle wasn’t changed.

Edited by iani
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Tried winching car onto recover truck and the wheel fell off, luckily no damage. This was a good S/H hub from Revington’s along with their studs & nuts. The nuts had been done up tightly & loctite applied, all four nuts had unwound. I obviously pulled over just in time, this could have been a very  nasty experience.

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3 minutes ago, Drewmotty said:

Was there any paint between the hub and adaptor? The interface needs to be bare metal to bare metal. 

The hub has been painted black at some point

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Paint in such interfaces can fret away and once there is even a few of thou movement the resulting vibration will soon loosen the wheel nuts. 
The a large proportion of the  load bearing is friction between the flat faces resulting from the compression of the nuts rather than shear loading through the studs.

Edited by Drewmotty
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1 hour ago, Mike C said:

How are the nuts on the driver's side?

Haven't touched them Mike, I rebuilt the N/S whilst my car was off the road during the EFI conversion, the O/S was against the garage wall and hasn't been touched. I elected to change my perfectly ok wire wheel studs for larger ones with spacers so I could possibly change the wheels in the future, I really wish I hadn't bothered as I have had a fair bit of trouble with them, I will have a good look tomorrow but I think I need to junk the spacers.

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Spacers shouldn’t present a problem Ian. 
I run long studs with spacers on both my cars and haven’t had a problem. Are the spacers the full contact type with just the four holes to suit the studs? Multi fit spacers with slotted holes may not provide as secure a location. 
How’s you’re torque wrench? Is it actually reaching the required 65 lbf?

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9 hours ago, Z320 said:

Falcrum pin ripped of the shock absorber dome.

Be careful about the coil spring when you lift the car.

Ciao, Marco

The safety warning from Marco is a very good point. If the spring can release its energy, like when jumping out, it can seriously hurt you.

Waldi

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35 minutes ago, Z320 said:

With "be careful" I meen:

- be prepared anything is moving when you lift the car

- don't try to hold what is moving with your hands or body

...................get someone else to hold it   !!!!!!!    :o

 

Roger   

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I believe I’ve found the cause, the pic shows the rear of one wire wheel adaptor bolt hole, the other three are similar. I expect this damage was caused during my previous incident with the adaptor coming loose. I popped over to TRGB this morning and have now fitted a new wire wheel adaptor, studs & nuts. A very lucky escape I think.

 

 

99D2A256-F152-4E26-8294-2140E678016A.jpeg

Edited by iani
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5 hours ago, aardvark said:

If it is the fulcrum pin bracket then you should be able to see damage to the inner wing by lifting the bonnet. 
 

whatever it is, commiserations Ian.  Did you hit a pothole or just driving normally?

 

 

I was on a fair few rural roads and there were a lot of potholes, the weather was awful and there was a lot of standing water so I couldn't see the holes.

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I had a slack wire wheel adaptor some years ago because one of the previous owners painted the hubs.

This made an unbearable KLOCK-KLOCK-KLOCK..., long before the adaptor was really slack - and without anything visible or even tactile on the wheel.

........

Edited by Z320
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15 minutes ago, Z320 said:

I had a slack wire wheel adaptor some years ago because one of the previous owners painted the hubs.

This made an unbearable KLOCK-KLOCK-KLOCK..., long before the adaptor was really slack - and without anything visible or even tactile on the wheel.

........

I drove c.85 miles to Emerald without issue, this happened around 10 miles into the return journey, the sound was like the wheel bearing was loose so I pulled over. I had driven over a few miles of really rough road, I wouldn't have noticed the issue on those roads I suspect.

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