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Refurb all gauges for tr6 pi


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Thet usually just need the faces and glass given a good clean which you can do in an evening given they come apart easily - unless you have electro-mechanical issues that is.

Jerry

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Hi Billy,

I did as Jerry recommends above, assuming your gages do work. I just carefully removed the rims (satin black on my CP car), this took a bit of patience as the mastic had gone hard, and the rims are prone to damage; then cleaned the glasses, sanded the rims (P400), painted them with a good quality rattle can. 
With a cotton bud  I carefully removed dirt on the dial plates.

Then assembled with some sealant and they look like new.

Waldi

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Got to be worth a try as Jerry and Waldi say before splashing lots of cash! 

Any one have any simple DIY tests to see if they work apart from putting 12v across them to see if the needle moves and they light up.

Andy

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Hi Andy,

I calibrated (compared) the oil pressure gage with my air compressor gage (nothing scientific here), as I felt this was sufficient.

I didn't calibrate the current (amp) gage, but know it moves.

I connected the fuel level gage to the tank sender, sender on bottom of empty tank, which I felt was the most relevant reading.

Road speed and tacho are not calibrated yet.

Regards,

Waldi

 

 

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1 hour ago, ntc said:

JDO first class bit of a character but very good 

I'll second this, I've used him for an E-type speedo and he converted my TR6 Tacho to electronic operation, very fast turnaround for both.

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Billy

It really depends on how hands on you want to be and what if anything might be wrong.

But I'm with Waldi on this one and basically did the same on my CP, although i did crack one of the glasses it was easy enough to get a replacement.

The only difference was my tacho was U/S, stuck at 2500rpm with no engine so i got a full refurb done at Speedograph Richfield in Notts and it came back very nicely finished, so pretty happy with them.

Cheers  Keith

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11 hours ago, ntc said:

JDO first class bit of a character but very good 

John (?) did my speedo too and I'm very pleased with it. He didn't refurb it, but it was flicking all over the place and now it's steady.

I do agree that they are easy to take apart, but be careful about cleaning the faces if you do that Billy. The graphics are very easily removed!

Rog

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Is it necessary to remove the gauges from the dash to remove the rims and the glass.

I've been reading that its not too difficult to remove the gauges from the dash apart from the rubber seal that tends to dissolve into a glue but as I'm just looking to clean the glass and the face I wondered if this is possible.

I was looking at Spiro's car on the stand at the NEC, he has magnolia gauges from Speedycables..look very smart with his cream interior.

Phil

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Hi Phil,

removal and re-installation of the gages is most of the work, and you have to to remove the glass. In my case it was relatively easy as it was part of a complete restoration. 
I the car is complete, it’s more work.

Regards,

Waldi

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I'd do the tacho first- on mine the speedo blocks some access to the back of the tacho. I also extended the wiring connections away from the instrument bodies  - it was difficult to access the upper connections of the tacho and speedo with the wiring connector clips in place.

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I've done similar to others here and cleaned up and painted the rim (CP), made a big difference. Take the two bigger gauges then lower the dash into 'service mode'. Can be an effort to spin the bezel off if the seal has gone hard. 

GarethIMG_20190415_180718_291.thumb.jpg.9f84832d2b94edee4e1e0269ee3ccf91.jpg

Edited by Mk2 Chopper
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