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Tr4a Chassis strengthening


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Has anyone got drawings of the various chassis strengthening pieces?The price charged by the usual suspects for these is a touch ridiculous! 
 

Iain

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Hi Iain, before you look elsewhere check out this previous forum content

: http://tr4a.weebly.com/chassis-strengthening-kit-welding.html

The exact dimensions of the reinforcing brackets is not as important as the basic principal, if it ends up looking similar to the video then it should be ok. Having said that if someone has precise drawings then please add them.

PS: I made my own, rule of thumb,  15 years ago and there ok so far.

 

Regards Chris

 

 

Edited by ChrisR-4A
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Hi Chris , thanks for that, that’s a great reference site, bookmarked some time ago. Just wondered if anyone had templated these pieces as they are pretty basic and don’t justify  the cost in my mind.
If not it’s out with the card board and scissors! 
Iain

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At least with the cardboard  and cissors Iain you will know there going to fit. When you do have a valid steel bracket make sure you position it so you have access for the welding nozzle from both sides.

 

 

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Edited by ChrisR-4A
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Welding braces between the tops of the 2 diff bridges and boxing the bottom of the bridges where they meet the chassis helps.

The rear chassis flex is the main design flaw with the IRS chassis...This occurs immediately behind the main diff bridge

I welded one metre long steel plates to the inside of the chassis rails [between the lips] in that weak area on my car. The standard 65mm x 8mm wide plate that is readily available fits snug.

Also removed the ribbed triangular shaped [breast] plate that is welded to where the main chassis and trailing arm rails meet and replaced it with a thicker and wider plate.

Edited by Malbaby
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16 hours ago, ctc77965o said:

If you DIY, which I fully support - it's just flat plates to weld on - make sure there's drainage points...don't weld-up an initially-strong rust-trap

There flat in one plane but usually have a right angle return edge about 6mm wide  opposite the welded sides. This stops the flat plate flexing and adds strength.

Chris

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Hi Ian,

Moss have 30% off the front end strengthening kits at the moment. May make it more palatable at the reduced price and save a lot of effort especially bending over the top edges of the pieces which gives them the strength. The rest of the strengthening plates at the rear are easy to make.

Rich

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On ‎12‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 12:09 AM, Geko said:

Having gone through this I came to the conclusion that the simplest and most effective solution to reduce chassis flex is to add a second breast plate just like on TR6. 

Is that the upper (T shirt?) as seen at https://parts.trgb.co.uk/collections/chassis-and-bodywork/products/chassis-breast-plate-upper-tr4a-6  Does it fit without obstruction and does it make a noticeable difference in rigidity?

Paul

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I have had this very discussion with Stuart this week and his reply was that if that the chassis is in good condition, then no, the hoop arrangement of the TR4a standard chassis is good. 

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