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TR2 chassis waxoiling

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I want to waxoil the inside of my TR2 chassis this winter . Does anyone please have a sketch of where the internal baffles are so I dont miss any sections . Thanks  Keith

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When I Waxoiled my Tr2/3 chassis I found that I could pass a thick wire from the rear end right through to the front end. There are cross-tubes at various points but they don't form a complete blockage.

At the time the chassis was completely bare so I could elevate the rear end  and using a purpose made funnel I could pour hot Waxoil down the chassis rails until it came out of the holes at the front then flip the chassis over, drop the rear end, elevate the front end and collect the surplus waxoil as it poured out at the rear.

There are various small holes in the sides of the chassis that need to covered with masking tape. 

Hope that helps.

Regards, Colin

 

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Thanks Colin, that does help  

Regards Keith

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I drilled my chassis and used a Bilt Hamber product Dynax s 50 which was easy to inject. It came with a lance. I had a plan for the correct place to drill the holes but I can not find it at the moment. I will check the garage tomorrow. 

Someone else may have access here. It may have come from Macy's garage in the USA who are very  accurate about TR problems.

Good luck Richard & B.

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Hi there,

Years ago there was a very basic trick that turned a piece of plastic pipe into a 360 degree spray.

Take a small diameter length of hose and mark off with indelible marker in foot lengths. Say three to four foot inside chassis tube.

Take a nail ideally soft metal like alloy felt nail in a smaller diameter than the tube. Flatten the end tip only like a spade (this locates it in place in the tube).

Push nail into the pipe till the flat head end is 1-2mm from the pipe end. you must have flow round this (suggest that you blow through to check)

You now have a dead head tube which pushes fluid against the nail head like putting your thumb over a garden hose. Using tube markers you can assess how far you have covered inside the chassis section.

You get a 360 degree spray that covers much more than a straight tube inserted.

If you keep Waxoil can in boiling water it flows much easier.

I take no credit for this other than still being able to remember it after all this time, and yes I did inhale!!!!!!

Regards 

Rod

Edited by Rodbr

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.....and also WaxOyl and all the other squirty things will keep your eyeballs rust free. Don't go there.

Remember PPE is your friend.

 

Roger 

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I would not apply Waxoyl in winter, it "freezes" on cold steel. Pick a really hot summer day, it will creep far better. I do that along with Rod's trick of preheating.

Peter

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4 minutes ago, Peter Cobbold said:

I would not apply Waxoyl in winter, it "freezes" on cold steel. Pick a really hot summer day, it will creep far better. I do that along with Rod's trick of preheating.

Peter

Never had that problem on cold steel, this is the UK after all :lol: we dont get hot!

Stuart.

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Thanks All          Richard  your sketch would be most welcome

 Keith

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Has anyone tried those small plastic garden spray nozzles? I have some ready fitted to some old brake pipe but haven't used them yet. Just wondering if I might be wasting my time.

Bryan

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Hi,

If you can find a drawing of the chassis, in a manual or somewhere, I will mark it up with the locations where I have drilled the chassis. I am away from home at the moment but will deal with it before Christmas.

I used Bilt Hamber dynax S50 spray which is highly rated and comes with a spray tube and nozzle. Only a very small amount leaks out and no danger to the user.

Good luck Richard & B.

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Here you go Richard a drawing

image.png.0b50739fa762e467480f2f643d54480b.png

 

This is what I will be doing, all holes under the chassis and left open to stop the dreaded condensation

1 hole either side of the front suspension strut

1 Hole where turret brace hits chassis

1 Hole under each body mount tube, this allows a  lance to go in either direction.

1 hole just to the rear of each shock absorber mount

1 Hole between the rear chassis tube and the rear spring hanger tube.

Of course this needs to be on each side.

Iain

 

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   Hi Iain   Thanks for your suggestions . Just a thought though, the bottom of the chassis is under tension, would it not be better to drill the holes half way in the vertical sides, which is the least point of stress in a box tube ? and would leaving the holes open allow moisture in ?

Keith

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The holes you will make will be 1/2" so of negligible impact on strength

Water, if it gets in, can get out the same ways as long as the holes are kept clear.

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I drilled my holes in the sides of the chassis and sealed them with self tapping screws. I also drilled and tapped the front of the inner sill members so that I could insert the Lance in there as well.  I didn’t use waxoil, I used the Bilt Hamber equivalent.

Rgds Ian

Edited by Ian Vincent

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Thanks for the drawing, but I could not print it  A4 . I had planned to mark the drawing in colour. The plan I used was from a long standing owner who knows all there is to know.

Please send me a larger size plan. I am away from home at present and will get back to you later.

Thanks

Richard & B.

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Had a quick play with the image, & it is very low resolution, i.e. won't be readable at A4 size. 

Iain needs to put a higher res version on here.

Bob.

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14 hours ago, Lebro said:

Had a quick play with the image, & it is very low resolution, i.e. won't be readable at A4 size. 

This one any use Bob?

TR2CHASS1.thumb.jpg.d289e2ecb6885df71729628ce471f96e.jpg

Cheers, Deggers

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Much better !

Bob.

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