Long Door Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 I want to waxoil the inside of my TR2 chassis this winter . Does anyone please have a sketch of where the internal baffles are so I dont miss any sections . Thanks Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin Fairhurst Posted December 5, 2019 Report Share Posted December 5, 2019 When I Waxoiled my Tr2/3 chassis I found that I could pass a thick wire from the rear end right through to the front end. There are cross-tubes at various points but they don't form a complete blockage. At the time the chassis was completely bare so I could elevate the rear end and using a purpose made funnel I could pour hot Waxoil down the chassis rails until it came out of the holes at the front then flip the chassis over, drop the rear end, elevate the front end and collect the surplus waxoil as it poured out at the rear. There are various small holes in the sides of the chassis that need to covered with masking tape. Hope that helps. Regards, Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Door Posted December 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2019 Thanks Colin, that does help Regards Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted December 5, 2019 Report Share Posted December 5, 2019 I drilled my chassis and used a Bilt Hamber product Dynax s 50 which was easy to inject. It came with a lance. I had a plan for the correct place to drill the holes but I can not find it at the moment. I will check the garage tomorrow. Someone else may have access here. It may have come from Macy's garage in the USA who are very accurate about TR problems. Good luck Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 (edited) Hi there, Years ago there was a very basic trick that turned a piece of plastic pipe into a 360 degree spray. Take a small diameter length of hose and mark off with indelible marker in foot lengths. Say three to four foot inside chassis tube. Take a nail ideally soft metal like alloy felt nail in a smaller diameter than the tube. Flatten the end tip only like a spade (this locates it in place in the tube). Push nail into the pipe till the flat head end is 1-2mm from the pipe end. you must have flow round this (suggest that you blow through to check) You now have a dead head tube which pushes fluid against the nail head like putting your thumb over a garden hose. Using tube markers you can assess how far you have covered inside the chassis section. You get a 360 degree spray that covers much more than a straight tube inserted. If you keep Waxoil can in boiling water it flows much easier. I take no credit for this other than still being able to remember it after all this time, and yes I did inhale!!!!!! Regards Rod Edited December 6, 2019 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 .....and also WaxOyl and all the other squirty things will keep your eyeballs rust free. Don't go there. Remember PPE is your friend. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 I would not apply Waxoyl in winter, it "freezes" on cold steel. Pick a really hot summer day, it will creep far better. I do that along with Rod's trick of preheating. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 4 minutes ago, Peter Cobbold said: I would not apply Waxoyl in winter, it "freezes" on cold steel. Pick a really hot summer day, it will creep far better. I do that along with Rod's trick of preheating. Peter Never had that problem on cold steel, this is the UK after all we dont get hot! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 6 hours ago, RogerH said: . Remember PPE is your friend. Roger Not at 1,2,3,4,5 6am he isn't! Roger M-E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Door Posted December 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 Thanks All Richard your sketch would be most welcome Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bcthom Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 Has anyone tried those small plastic garden spray nozzles? I have some ready fitted to some old brake pipe but haven't used them yet. Just wondering if I might be wasting my time. Bryan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted December 10, 2019 Report Share Posted December 10, 2019 Hi, If you can find a drawing of the chassis, in a manual or somewhere, I will mark it up with the locations where I have drilled the chassis. I am away from home at the moment but will deal with it before Christmas. I used Bilt Hamber dynax S50 spray which is highly rated and comes with a spray tube and nozzle. Only a very small amount leaks out and no danger to the user. Good luck Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 10, 2019 Report Share Posted December 10, 2019 Here you go Richard a drawing This is what I will be doing, all holes under the chassis and left open to stop the dreaded condensation 1 hole either side of the front suspension strut 1 Hole where turret brace hits chassis 1 Hole under each body mount tube, this allows a lance to go in either direction. 1 hole just to the rear of each shock absorber mount 1 Hole between the rear chassis tube and the rear spring hanger tube. Of course this needs to be on each side. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Door Posted December 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2019 Hi Iain Thanks for your suggestions . Just a thought though, the bottom of the chassis is under tension, would it not be better to drill the holes half way in the vertical sides, which is the least point of stress in a box tube ? and would leaving the holes open allow moisture in ? Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 10, 2019 Report Share Posted December 10, 2019 The holes you will make will be 1/2" so of negligible impact on strength Water, if it gets in, can get out the same ways as long as the holes are kept clear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted December 11, 2019 Report Share Posted December 11, 2019 (edited) I drilled my holes in the sides of the chassis and sealed them with self tapping screws. I also drilled and tapped the front of the inner sill members so that I could insert the Lance in there as well. I didn’t use waxoil, I used the Bilt Hamber equivalent. Rgds Ian Edited December 11, 2019 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted December 11, 2019 Report Share Posted December 11, 2019 Thanks for the drawing, but I could not print it A4 . I had planned to mark the drawing in colour. The plan I used was from a long standing owner who knows all there is to know. Please send me a larger size plan. I am away from home at present and will get back to you later. Thanks Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 11, 2019 Report Share Posted December 11, 2019 Had a quick play with the image, & it is very low resolution, i.e. won't be readable at A4 size. Iain needs to put a higher res version on here. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 14 hours ago, Lebro said: Had a quick play with the image, & it is very low resolution, i.e. won't be readable at A4 size. This one any use Bob? Cheers, Deggers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 Much better ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 Now I need to get my son's printer working in Devon. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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