Phil H 4 Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 Thinking of doing some chassis protection through the winter and seem to have read about drilling the chassis and injecting wax oil and then inserting rubber bungs. I'm having difficulty locating the thread but my question is, do the bungs need to be or a certain composition so as not to be effected by the waxoil. Any guidance appreciated. Thanks Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 The wax treatment suppliers usually include them with the pack - Dinitrol (Rejel Auto) certainly will. Difficult to imagine plastic or rubber of any type not being suitable. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 Hi Phil, I have never had any from WaxOyl. However get your blanking plugs first and THEN drill the holes. You will need more than you think. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-Blanking-Rubber-Grommets-Closed-Blind-Grommet-Plugs-Bungs-Gromets-6-50mm/252953962291?hash=item3ae53b2733:m:m-2pbPkJ8JsrZmVFQjmXu5A The internal chamber of the chassis has many bulkheads - you need to access then all. A 1/2" hole is usually big enough to get a wand in. Make sure that the spray pattern covers ALL the internal surface. I have found my Waxoyl has peeled off in sheets - not good. Dinitrol and Bilthamber have very good products. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 7 minutes ago, RogerH said: I have found my Waxoyl has peeled off in sheets - not good. Roger Ive never had that problem with Waxoyl did you shake it up properly first? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 Hi Stuart, Yes, shook violently and warmed. I found it two years or so when I replaced my NS sill on the 4A. It had been refreshed every 2 or 3 years. Possibly the surface of the sill was oily or whatever. However having used it I will have to continue as I am not sure how Dinitrol etc would overcoat it !!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted December 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 Thank you all for the direction, best get the blanking grommets ordered and the axle stands out. Whilst under there is it a good idea to coat the floor panels, currently body colour when replaced with stone guard or waxoil. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 48 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Stuart, Yes, shook violently and warmed. I found it two years or so when I replaced my NS sill on the 4A. It had been refreshed every 2 or 3 years. Possibly the surface of the sill was oily or whatever. However having used it I will have to continue as I am not sure how Dinitrol etc would overcoat it !!! Roger Does sound as if there was something on the panel to make it do that. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 28 minutes ago, Phil H 4 said: Thank you all for the direction, best get the blanking grommets ordered and the axle stands out. Whilst under there is it a good idea to coat the floor panels, currently body colour when replaced with stone guard or waxoil. Phil Just waxoil the entire underneath front to back thats what I do. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Door Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 I want to treat the inside of my TR2 chassis and I note that there are baffles that separate sections of the chassis . Does anyone have a sketch of where these baffles are ? Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 I think Ed shows the boxes on his website, it was also in a recent topic. I found I had to drill little additional holes, only at the TA support points iirc. There are several original holes which provide access. Remove dirt first! Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 When it comes to corrosion , ventilation is the key. Water, damp and condensation will be present within the chassis. Provide drain holes, let the air circulate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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