Ocheye Posted December 3, 2019 Report Share Posted December 3, 2019 At the risk of appearing a complete numpty, can anyone supply instructions or a photo showing how to fit this kit to my TR4 please? It is a Revington kit. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 3, 2019 Report Share Posted December 3, 2019 Not particularly good pictures but this may help.Or ask Revingtons to mail you some instructions. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 3, 2019 Report Share Posted December 3, 2019 Here you go its the same as a Moss Kit 807-065_instructions.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted December 3, 2019 Report Share Posted December 3, 2019 Stuart....Very neat engine bay....interested in your arrangement of twin boosters. Are you running a separate booster [with electric vacuum pump & tank] for the clutch? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 . Andy, I don't know if this will help. They're piccies I found some time ago when I was looking at these latch releases for my own car., but I can't remember where I found them (.. my utmost apologies for not crediting the owner / photographer for kindly sharing these details with us) . . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 12 hours ago, Malbaby said: Stuart....Very neat engine bay....interested in your arrangement of twin boosters. Are you running a separate booster [with electric vacuum pump & tank] for the clutch? That was for a customer who struggled with a heavy clutch, it was on a carb equipped car so plenty of vacuum to run both that and the brake. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 9 hours ago, Bfg said: . Andy, I don't know if this will help. They're piccies I found some time ago when I was looking at these latch releases for my own car., but I can't remember where I found them (.. my utmost apologies for not crediting the owner / photographer for kindly sharing these details with us) . . All of those are missing a vital stop screw (visible on my first picture above) to stop the additional lever going over centre when pulled which if theres any mismatch in the alignment of the pin and spring will still leave you with a stuck bonnet. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 Thank you Stuart, good point. It would certainly be a nuisance to find out the hard way ! I must admit I would have thought the latch's own slotted lever-hole (of limited length) would have prevented that from happening. Apparently not in all cases. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 47 minutes ago, Bfg said: Thank you Stuart, good point. It would certainly be a nuisance to find out the hard way ! I must admit I would have thought the latch's own slotted lever-hole (of limited length) would have prevented that from happening. Apparently not in all cases. No because of the angle it traverses it gradually disappears into the slot which will allow the outer emergency lever to slide past it with an over enthusiastic pull Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 Thanks Stuart, I'll most likely make my own, so if I make it so the upward leg of the lever is taller, then it ought to avoid that happening. Cheers. With this fitted, is there then any need for the cable pull ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 18 minutes ago, Bfg said: Thanks Stuart, I'll most likely make my own, so if I make it so the upward leg of the lever is taller, then it ought to avoid that happening. Cheers. With this fitted, is there then any need for the cable pull ? No you still need the stop no matter how tall you make the top section, as I said earlier the actual lever on the catch starts to disappear into the slot and so the "L" lever overtops it. Lots of 5 and 6 owners who have these fitted do use them instead of the original as on those models the pull is on the other side and due to the route it takes the cables are more prone to breaking than on 4/4a where its more of a straight pull. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted December 4, 2019 Report Share Posted December 4, 2019 Ah ..now I got it. Not the emergency lever but that out of the side of the original catch disappears into the slot. Sorry I must be a bit more blonde in with my grey today. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted December 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 Many thanks to all for your words of wisdom Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy303 Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 The last picture in Stuart's montage, the red one, shows a different approach to the small stop screw - a stop on the rod in a position to prevent the rod from being pulled down too far. This one looks quite elegant, others less so (see below). Article on bonnet release: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/emergency_hood_release.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 with that level of sophistication and reliability, wondering if it is worth keeping the original cable... everybody loves a good free grommet ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 48 minutes ago, Geko said: with that level of sophistication and reliability, wondering if it is worth keeping the original cable... everybody loves a good free grommet ! Well lots of people I know with 5`s and 6`s only use the emergency one to save going round the other side to use the original one. Though usually when restoring those models I fit a 4/4a style pull as well on the r/hand side to serve as their emergency one Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 (edited) I have that since 10 years on my car without any need. This with a minimum of attention for the cable and pivot clip, also closing the bonnet with a gentle push, I never let it fall. Ciao, Marco Edited December 6, 2019 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 41 minutes ago, Z320 said: I have that since 10 years on my car without any need. This with a minimum of attention for the cable and pivot clip, also closing the bonnet with a gentle push, I never let it fall. Ciao, Marco That`s the difference between a 4/4a pull as its more of an easier route for the pull cable so there`s less strain on it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy303 Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 On a related topic, and I apologize if I am hi-jacking this thread, what are some good techniques for adjusting the bonnet catch mechanism so it does not jam and prevent the bonnet from opening regardless of the presence of an emergency release? Just before I put my TR4A up for the winter when I drove it to the storage facility the bonnet refused to open for the first time in my experience. I was able to get it open with some help pushing down on the rear corners. My assumption is the rather bumpy road I had just traveled on upset the alignment of the catch. One method involves masking tape over the catch plate and smearing the spring retainer cup with grease and gently closing, but not latching the bonnet and observing the pattern left by the grease in order to adjust the latch pin. It was suggested also that the latch pin and spring assembly on my late TR4A should have a bonnet release lever. it does not and may be from an earlier car. Is there a difference? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 8 hours ago, stuart said: Well lots of people I know with 5`s and 6`s only use the emergency one to save going round the other side to use the original one. Though usually when restoring those models I fit a 4/4a style pull as well on the r/hand side to serve as their emergency one Stuart. I have one on my TR4 and never use the cable pull. Both are in the passenger footwell area (LHD) but the "emergengy" one is just easier to use, to be honest. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 Andy, I’ve seen that parts diagram before, and always wondered when that hood/bonnet safety catch (2 & 11) was introduced in the Tr4a. The Stanpart catalogue does not show that part. Could it have been for the North American market only? Though my 65 live axle Tr4a doesn’t have one. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 32 minutes ago, Tr4aJim said: Andy, I’ve seen that parts diagram before, and always wondered when that hood/bonnet safety catch (2 & 11) was introduced in the Tr4a. The Stanpart catalogue does not show that part. Could it have been for the North American market only? Though my 65 live axle Tr4a doesn’t have one. Jim My 65 UK TR4A doesn’t have one either and I can’t see as it’s really needed. The bonnet hinges at the front so the faster you are going the more the wind pressure is keeping it shut. I suspose if you could do 20mph or more in reverse then maybe it would blow open! Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy303 Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 (edited) 38 minutes ago, Tr4aJim said: Andy, I’ve seen that parts diagram before, and always wondered when that hood/bonnet safety catch (2 & 11) was introduced in the Tr4a. The Stanpart catalogue does not show that part. Could it have been for the North American market only? Though my 65 live axle Tr4a doesn’t have one. Jim Jim: My '67 TR4A is very late production, CT77156L, and the catch assembly (item 76) has the steel loop for the safety catch. However the pin assembly on my car appears to be the earlier type without a safety catch lever on the bonnet. My car was restored previously so I cannot be sure that it came that way from the factory. I recall reading somewhere that the pin assembly is longer on the later TRs. The mis-match may be a potential stuck bonnet in the making. Stuart: I agree that the safety catch is not really needed. May have been/most likely mandated by Federal regulation and commonized in all subsequent TRs. The safety catch is on every Detroit product that I can recall from that era. Edited December 7, 2019 by Andy303 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 Ages ago someone posited the idea that the safety catch was supposed to stop the trailing edge of the bonnet from entering the passenger compartment in the event of a front end impact. I never bought that idea, the catch is just too flimsy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 1 hour ago, peejay4A said: Ages ago someone posited the idea that the safety catch was supposed to stop the trailing edge of the bonnet from entering the passenger compartment in the event of a front end impact. I never bought that idea, the catch is just too flimsy. Having seen a few TR`s hit in the front it does work. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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