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Rear axle "oddness"


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My car has experiences intermittent odd behaviour from the rear, it's as if something interferes with the drive for a few seconds, almost like a few teeth disappearing in the diff and then reappearing and all being well. There doesn't seem to be any catalyst for this, it can start happening at any time then it goes back to normal after a few seconds. I have had this for a while, I have already changed the hubs  & driveshafts for another set, not new but the UJ's are all good. I don't have any clonks on taking up drive at all, the engine isn't missing a beat when this happens and the noise is definitely from the rear of the car. I haven't seen any descriptions of axle issues that should cause this kind of behaviour, any thoughts?

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7 minutes ago, Mike C said:

What's the noise sound like? Does this happen when you are travelling in a straight line or only when cornering?

Mostly in a straight line, this isn't the "twitch", I've had a Stag & some 2500's so I"m used that. 

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You've not mentioned, I don't suppose you have an overdrive gearbox ? Could be that if you have one in use, try it engaged and not engaged to see if it varies.

Mick Richards

 

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3 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

You've not mentioned, I don't suppose you have an overdrive gearbox ? Could be that if you have one in use, try it engaged and not engaged to see if it varies.

Mick Richards

 

I have an A type OD Mick, I haven’t noticed if if was engaged or not at the time, I am certain the issue is at the rear, both by feel and by noise however.

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My money is on an overdrive problem, sounds like the uni directional clutch is loosing impetus and the drive rollers are rolling back loosing drive (likely oil pressure or a bad connection electrical).

Go for a drive but consciously observe when the overdrive is engaged... don’t use it and see if we can eliminate it.

Mick richards

 

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12 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

My money is on an overdrive problem, sounds like the uni directional clutch is loosing impetus and the drive rollers are rolling back loosing drive (likely oil pressure or a bad connection electrical).

Go for a drive but consciously observe when the overdrive is engaged... don’t use it and see if we can eliminate it.

Mick richards

 

Interesting, I’ll give this a go next weekend once I sort my front hub/stud issue out, I’ll let you know how it goes.

Ian

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6 hours ago, AdrianH said:

A long time ago I had a similar-sounding problem on my first TR6 (DWA742N) and it turned out to be... teeth missing from the crown-wheel. So your first instinct might also be correct.

Thanks, let’s see where driving without the OD gets me, either fix is expensive and I want to make sure I’m fixing the right problem.

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I tried testing the car today but it was bunny hopping all over the place, the idle was spot on but I was having trouble with flat spots when accelerating and it just wasn't happy at all, back in the garage in disgrace, this EFI conversion lark isn't always as straightforward as people say. 

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33 minutes ago, harrytr5 said:

Ian have you tried the tune over the wifi that Emerald can do for you?

It is a brilliant service.

Sorted me out a couple of times before the rolling road and after.

Have you and Mark been in touch with Dan regarding the airbox?

Regards HarryTR5 Nutter

John set the car up remotely, however cold start isn't great and today it was markedly worse, I haven't touched anything as the car has been off the road all week. I sent Dan a note saying I'd sort the template out this weekend, it's on the list for tomorrow.

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I managed to drive the car for 25 miles today after changing the manifold gasket and improving the sealing of the exhaust & TB's. I had some issues with the idle towards the end of the run but on the positive side I had no issues with "oddness", no clunking, no odd noises, either in or out of OD. I had cleaned a lot of gunk out of the OD oil strainer and filled it with SAE40, perhaps that has helped, the gunk in the strainer might well have been causing issues as it was quite thick.

Edited by iani
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Hello Ian,

 

Persevere with the Emerald EFI, once your car has been on a rolling road for mapping it will be transformed when compared the original mechanical PI system. Presumably you will be using the ECU to control ignition timing as well. You mention issues with idling - are you using a separate idle air control valve or the original Triumph bleed screw? Using a separate IACV will (or should) enable the ECU to control the idle speed. If you are an avid reader of TR Action you may find the article I wrote about converting to Emerald EFI interesting and helpful (see the latest issue). 

Regarding gearbox oil I too have recently changed to SAE40 (from SAE30) much improving the gear change when the oil is cold.

Good luck,

another Ian

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3 hours ago, The horseman said:

Hello Ian,

 

Persevere with the Emerald EFI, once your car has been on a rolling road for mapping it will be transformed when compared the original mechanical PI system. Presumably you will be using the ECU to control ignition timing as well. You mention issues with idling - are you using a separate idle air control valve or the original Triumph bleed screw? Using a separate IACV will (or should) enable the ECU to control the idle speed. If you are an avid reader of TR Action you may find the article I wrote about converting to Emerald EFI interesting and helpful (see the latest issue). 

Regarding gearbox oil I too have recently changed to SAE40 (from SAE30) much improving the gear change when the oil is cold.

Good luck,

another Ian

Hi Ian,

Yes, the Emerald ECU is controlling the ignition, I am running distributor less via a Vauxhall coil pack. The IACV is the one Emerald sells and it is supplying air via a six branch manifold to tappings in the Jenvey Heritage Throttle Bodies. I have read your article and I'm glad you're pleased with the conversion, I'm sure I will be too, just a few last issues to iron out, mostly of my own making I'm afraid.

Ian

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