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Is my hub scrap?


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I refurbished my N/S/F suspension whilst my car was off the road, as part of this I fitted longer wheel studs & spacers to allow for my wire wheels. After only 60 miles I thought I hadn't tightened the wheel bearing up enough as it was very noisy, on inspection the hub adaptor was loose. All four studs are like the one on the right, the one on the left is a new one. If I put the new one in the hub, it just turns in 3 of the holes, the splines just aren't gripping so I would struggle to tighten the nuts up.  Before I hunt for a replacement hub, I just want to sanity check that the new stud should be tight in the hole and not just turn?

 

 

studs.jpg

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The spline should grip and not turn.There is some suspect ones out there with the splines not so pronounced. I guess these are the front ones as the rears are taper seat. I fitted the uprated Alloy hub kit from CDD although Stuart recommends another supplier.

There is always something to do and don't you just love this hobby of ours.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

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Thanks chaps, I'll try the weld approach first.

Ian

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I’m not a fan of welding bolts. The stud material contains quite a bit of Cr, Ni and C, but a bit of a pre-heat to 100 degr. C will reduce the risk of cracks from high hardness. Best only a light tack weld if you plan to do so.

Waldi

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I wouldn’t risk it. As Waldo said welding will compromise the material. A hub is the last place you want to compromise and good used front hubs are quite easy to find.

Edited by Drewmotty
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I've ordered a S/H hub from RTR, hopefully be sorted this week.

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38 minutes ago, iani said:

I've ordered a S/H hub from RTR, hopefully be sorted this week.

Are you sure the new studs are correctly dimensioned?  I have far more  problems with new parts that are supposedly equivalent to the originals but aren't than secondhand.

Were the original  studs tight in the hub when you  removed them?

Edited by Mike C
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2 minutes ago, Mike C said:

Are you sure the new studs are correctly dimensioned?  I have far more  problems with new parts that are supposedly equivalent to the originals but aren't than secondhand.

I'm not using these studs again.

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2 minutes ago, Mike C said:

I mean if the old studs were tight in the hub when they were removed,  the new ones should also be tight if they were correctly dimensioned.

They were tighter than they are today but I pushed them in by hand, they were then pulled up by the nuts on the hub adaptor.

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If you can't find studs to fit, there are a number of ways the hub could be fixed, either by you or a machine shop.  For one, you could drill the holes oversized and insert thin sleeves, tacking or staking them so they won't pull out.  Cost at a shop might approach the cost of a hub, though.

Ed

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I spoke with Revingtons today, they told me they've seen a number of studs made of too soft a material and the splines not being strong enough. I have used hub and some new studs on their way, hopefully sorted by the weekend.

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On 11/24/2019 at 3:09 PM, iani said:

..., as part of this I fitted longer wheel studs & spacers to allow for my wire wheels. 

studs.jpg

Ian,

You mention in your original post using longer wheel studs and spacers to fit your wire wheels.

Surely you need to fit the special SHORTER wheel studs (Moss P/No 114281) and special thin chamfered nuts (Moss P/No 110366) which allow the wire wheel to seat properly on the splined hub adaptor. Could it be that your wheels aren't seating fully, if the studs/nuts are slightly too long, and that they are "oscillating" on the hub casing the stud damage?

Apologies if that suggestion offends but it's worth a look.

Dave McD

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8 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

Ian,

You mention in your original post using longer wheel studs and spacers to fit your wire wheels.

Surely you need to fit the special SHORTER wheel studs (Moss P/No 114281) and special thin chamfered nuts (Moss P/No 110366) which allow the wire wheel to seat properly on the splined hub adaptor. Could it be that your wheels aren't seating fully, if the studs/nuts are slightly too long, and that they are "oscillating" on the hub casing the stud damage?

Apologies if that suggestion offends but it's worth a look.

Dave McD

No Dave, my car had the shorter studs all round, I fitted a pair of replacement rear driveshafts that came with longer studs so I fitted spacers to allow me to use my wires. I then decided to put the longer studs and spacers on the front, I then have the option of changing to bolt on wheels should I choose to. 

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