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Quick release battery terminal connectors


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In the engine comp  near battery only the nose of the isolator goes through the bulkhead side, terminals covered in engine comp with plastic cap similar to aerosol cap.

Chris

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Edited by ChrisR-4A
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11 hours ago, ChrisR-4A said:

In the engine comp  near battery only the nose of the isolator goes through the bulkhead side, terminals covered in engine comp with plastic cap similar to aerosol cap.

Chris

On balance, I think Chris's solution beats Mr Revington's...just!

Miles

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  • 1 month later...

Just to sign off this thread. With the benefit of everyone's input, I decided on a permanent solution rather than constantly detaching (and reattaching) the earth and positive cables from the battery on a regular basis. 

Identified an existing 1" hole in the bulkhead on the N/S, close to the battery. installed a 12v socket with a cover wired directly to the battery clamps for the the earth and positive cables. 

Removed the croc clips from my battery conditioner and wired a fused, cigar type adapter to the wires.

I already have a battery cut off switch installed, so no risk of power leakage when charging.

Job done! 

IMG_E7748.jpg

Edited by MilesA
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Hi Miles,

An additional thought: I note you have your earth connected to the body, not directly to the engine.

On a TR6 the battery earth strap has a double connection: one to the body, the other to the engine. That is a good approach I think. The high current during starting does not depend on an additional connection(body to engine), which I hope you have. 
Cheers,

Waldi

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Hi Waldi

Thanks for the feedback. This is I think the standard arrangement for the battery earth strap on a 3A. I think there is also a strap between engine and body but better experts than me on a 3A will confirm.

Miles

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On the 3A there is an earth braid between the engine and the body by the left hand front engine mount. If that isn't there then return current from the starter motor has to find its way back via various odd paths like the throttle linkage, which isn't a good idea........

 

Edited by RobH
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On 11/26/2019 at 5:07 PM, ChrisR-4A said:

Ive had one of these for over 10 years, £12.99 at Halfrauds but probably cheaper elsewhere and can be fitted on LH bulkhead so key is in passenger footwell.

Chris

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Fitted to every boat I've had and is a requirement for pleasure craft

Usually never needed . . . . . .  but . . . . . . . then it's a life saver

 

John

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/24/2019 at 12:02 PM, John Morrison said:

Can I just add, nothing against these disconnect type things, sure they work really well,

problem is they are no use if you have an electrical issue whilst in the car.

A cut off mounted inside, does all of the above, AND, lets you kill the power even before you've stopped moving if an issue starts,

I'm thinking of smoke filling the cockpit etc., where are you if you are in a sidescreen car with such an issue? you've to stop, find the carriage key get out fiddle with the bonnet and then kill the power - no brainer for me.

John.

You put it so clearly, John, that you made up my mind for me.

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FWIW I would fit the type which not only disconnects the battery, but also kills the ignition circuit.

If you have an "incident" while the engine is running, disconnecting the battery will not stop the engine, nor will it stop an electrical fire (shorted wires etc)

Bob.

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On 1/11/2020 at 4:45 PM, MilesA said:

Just to sign off this thread. With the benefit of everyone's input, I decided on a permanent solution rather than constantly detaching (and reattaching) the earth and positive cables from the battery on a regular basis. 

Identified an existing 1" hole in the bulkhead on the N/S, close to the battery. installed a 12v socket with a cover wired directly to the battery clamps for the the earth and positive cables. 

Removed the croc clips from my battery conditioner and wired a fused, cigar type adapter to the wires.

I already have a battery cut off switch installed, so no risk of power leakage when charging.

Job done! 

IMG_E7748.jpg

I notice you have a fuel pressure regulator and one of those glass filters. I’m assuming from that your running a couple of Weber’s. I had the same setup, however after reading about a number of instances of the filters failing and spraying petrol all over the engine, I removed it. I think this happened to someone on the forum, can’t recall who. Just something to consider. 

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I had one of those glass filters fitted some years ago and when the engine started cutting out over 2000 rpm I eventually found it was the mesh of the filter which had closed up restricting the flow even though it looked clear and there was no debris present. I now use a sealed filter and change it every 2 years or about 8000 miles. Robsport do a good one as fitted to Stags by them at a reasonable price. Never check a filter with just a visual inspection, either take it off and try blowing through it or remove the fuel pipe from the carbs and check the flow by cranking and letting  it pump into a jar. 

Chris

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FWIW, I have my CTEK connector (teh one that came with the charger) hardwired to the battery from inside the glove box.  I don't have to lift the bonnet, just open the glove box.

I also have a battery cut off switch under the dash on the driver's side and a hidden immobiliser switch which I operate when the car is not being driven.

Rgds Ian

PS Miles, Is that your spare coil hiding behind the windscreen wiper motor?

Edited by Ian Vincent
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Cameron

Yes, a couple of Webers. Have searched the 6 Forum without success. Are you suggesting that the glass filters are not strong enough to cope with the pressure, causing them to break?  

Chris

Thanks - will bear that in mind if I get performance degradation and need to change filters.

Ian

Yes, that is my spare coil. The clamp attaches neatly to the existing bolts in the scuttle. I know it should be on the inside of the wing and although the car is far from original, I try to avoid drilling even more holes in it!

Miles

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15 hours ago, Cameron said:

 

This is the thread from the forum. There have been other cases that caused fires. 

Cameron 

Many thanks - I was searching the 6 Forum.

I have a Facet filter between the tank and the Facet pump at the rear of the car. Rather liked the visual benefit of the glass filter in the engine bay as the fuel line from from the pump is rubber so it could still degrade. Hence the glass filter. I can also see the filter filling with fuel when first starting the car after a few week's inactivity (as I just check oil, water, etc).

Been meaning to replace the fuel line with a metal one for a while, but if it ain't broke....So once this crisis is over that will probably get moved up the 'to do' list. In the meantime will try and source an alternative metal filter.

Miles

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Hi Miles

I think what your suggesting is a great idea, not wanting to add to your todo list but if you haven’t already I would also recommend replacing any remaining rubber fuel lines with ethanol resistant ones. I found Moss was the best supplier on price and quantity. 
 

All the Best

Cameron

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