Rebuild sequence

[Allan Westbury]

My TR4A chassis has been blasted, welded, strengthened, primed and painted in 2-pack - shiny black.  The bodytub similar only primed in 2-pack  white with the underbody additionally stone-chipped and body colour painted.

Now I start the rebuild but am worried that if I get things out of sequence they will have to be removed and added again later.

Obviously on the chassis I will put suspension on first then brake & fuel lines before engine gearbox & diff. 

Where do I start on the tub? Is it wiring loom first?

Advice please,

thanks,

Allan

[tr graham]

Alan

wiper gear first , then the wiring 

Graham

[ed_h]

Im not sure you'll find a single comprehensive  "order" for assembly.  Probably the best you can do is just try to look as many steps ahead as you can, and concede that you may need to backtrack here and there.

Ed

 

[ntc]

Nothing until you have the tub on the chassis and everything lines up spot on.

[Waldi]

Hi Alan,

On my TR6, I first installed the entire suspension / brakes and drive train on the chassis, but without bits like radiator, fuel pump, but including exhaust manifold, throttle body (carb in your case). Really as much as possible before putting the tub back on.

Then with help of some friends installed the body tub but without any panels or parts back on the chassis. The 4 points in the middle shimmed enough to have clearance at the other points, then shimmed the others.

Then installed the wiper and then wiring loom, as Graham did. Then heater box, dash board, instruments switches and checked all was working (where possible) 

Before installing the new wiring loom, I compared old and new and labeled each wire of the new loom.

Testing the loom after installation:

Make sure to insulate open ends on the loom when doing that. I used an A3 print of the wiring diagram and a color marker to mark each wire/circuit on and put my multimeter between battery and one lead (it does not matter which one, but I used the positive) during all testing. In this way I could measure the current at each stage. Most multimeters have a 10A max measurement, so this suffices for your testing. If you have OD this can be tested to (up to the solenoid).

Enjoy your rebuild.

Waldi

 

[Allan Westbury]

Thanks guys,

Some good points here - no pun intended.

I guess the more I can get on the chassis before installing the tub, the better.

I had forgotten the wiper mechanism but accept this has to go in VERY early. Good advice on the loom as well. I am planning on using a new loom with a few additions so labelling will be very useful.

Waxed the chassis internals today, suspension starts tomorrow.

cheers,

Allan

[ntc]

Allan

you need to build the tub up on the frame complete with all panels and door with glass and screen frame to set it up right when happy remove doors and go from there 

[Geko]

This came before anything

[Rob Salisbury]

Allan, with regard to the tub, clean out all the captive screw threads(a bit of Copperslip here and you will be able undo the screws in 25 years time!!) and, along with the wiper gear, fit the heater unit and pipes early on.

Cheers Rob

[Andy Moltu]

Build up rolling chassis.

Steering wheel first then seats.

You can sit and and go Brmmbrmm.

 

Wipers and loom first.

Dashtop and heater. Then dash, instruments and after that most is down to whatever takes your fancy.

[250]

·       Hi Allan after the tub and all panels etc are fitted and  lined up this is what I will be doing, not my list something I was sent by an American friend I have a 250 but its all relative.

         Bonnet release cable

·        Pedal box

·         Wheel boxes and wiper tubing

·         Washer tubing

·         Dash pad

·         Demisters

·         Windshield frame with new vinyl installed. Would be best if doors and windows are already installed to aid in adjusting windshield rake

·         Windshield installed in frame

·         Wiring harness

·         Check operation of wipers. Can be done with jumpers if nessassary

·         Wheel box cover plates

·         Install and adjust cable to heater door lever, leave it hanging

·         Heater and hoses along with right side air vents hose (before glove box, especially if cardboard glove box)

·         Connect demister hoses to demisters and heater

·         Pass oil pressure line, Tach and Speedo cables, choke cables and heat valve cable through bulkhead

·         Metal dash with lower steering column clamp, crash pads, glove box with switch and bulb installed, heater switch and ignition switch if TR250 or 69 model

·         Connect choke cables and heat valve cable and cable to heater door lever

·         If early model, connect and adjust scuttle vent lid rod

·         Steering column “H” bar, Stiffening rod and support rod for TR250 and 69 model

·         Place steering column lock with padded cover installed, N/A for TR250 and 69 model

·         Steering column with switches installed

·         Feed switch wires under column

·         Attach steering column lock to column, N/A for TR250 and 69 model

·         Connect inner shaft to lower shaft while adjusting column position, turn signal cam position, and steering wheel hub position

·         Clamp steering column, don’t forget the heater ground wire in Fwd clamp inner bolt

·         Connect glove box light bullet/sleeve

·         Install air vents and hoses; don’t connect driver’s side hose to heater just yet

·         Place cut toilet paper tube over steering column

·         Put wooden dash in place with small gauges installed and connect gauges

·         Screw down dash, shim around glove box door as needed for flush fit, connect check strap

·         Connect dash switches and warning lights. On early models, wires can be fed through holes, connected and then switches pushed in. Not sure about later models, maybe switches  should be installed before dash is fitted

·         Install Speedo then Tach

·         Clamp and connect driver’s air vent hose previously left unclamped

 

Mark.

[Allan Westbury]

brilliant thanks. 

Is that anti vibration pads Geko?

I like the idea of going brmmbrmm.

 good list 250 thanks.

Still a long way to go, went to fit front suspension today but need new polybushes. One old one out of 8 split. B*gger!