TR5 Heater Control Valve

[DenisMc]

Hi there. I am going to change the heater control valve on my TR5. The current valve appears to be stuck closed as water is not entering the heater although the actuation mechanism appears to work, with the lever turning and the central pin rising as the heater control knob is pulled out. Given the height of the valve relative to the heater and radiator I wasn't planning to drain any water from the radiator. Are there any pitfalls that I should be aware of?  What about setting the valve? I am aware that Revington TR make an improved valve, but I shall try fitting the standard valve from Moss on this occasion. Many thanks.

[RogerH]

Hi Denis,

as well as the valve being liable to clog up the heater it self can also get crud in it. When you have the pipes off give it a good flush.

The standard valve is quite useless. It may feel OK when out of the box(sometimes) but will go duff in short time.

The Revington valve will work effortlessly but is  a cobbled up affair. The  Everco valve from the US is by far the better fit and forget item 

RockAuto in the states will post over here.

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/heater-control-valve/four-seasons-heater-control-valve-74648/135681?_requestid=7124741

 

Roger

[Spit_2.5PI]

I've also heard that the pattern part valves fail quite rapidly. If the mechanism of your original seems to move but there's no heat, you can drill out the rivet which stops the top pressed steel part rotating on the bottom casting. Then you can rotate and remove the top, remove and clean up the elastomer diaphragm and inspect the chamber underneath. It will probably be gunged up so you can now clear that out! After that, reverse flush the heater matrix and you should be there. A small self tapper replaces the rivet.

However, I wanted finer control of the heater at minimal settings, so I fitted the Everco valve, which appears to be well designed and has a feature for very fine control as the valve begins to open. I'm very pleased as I can now easily get just enough heat to warm my toes on mild days.

Cheers, Richard

[Harbottle]

21 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Denis,

as well as the valve being liable to clog up the heater it self can also get crud in it. When you have the pipes off give it a good flush.

The standard valve is quite useless. It may feel OK when out of the box(sometimes) but will go duff in short time.

The Revington valve will work effortlessly but is  a cobbled up affair. The  Everco valve from the US is by far the better fit and forget item 

RockAuto in the states will post over here.

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/heater-control-valve/four-seasons-heater-control-valve-74648/135681?_requestid=7124741

 

Roger

X2 for the above.Stuart I think also uses/used this type, mine works well and smooth you can feel the notches on the dash control knob .

Paul

[stuart]

I have fitted a few of the Everco valves and they do work so much better, the only thing is they have a 15mm input hose barb so you do need a good shove to get the original size hose on, soap and warmth help though.

Stuart.

[cvtrian]

+ another for the everco valve
(The cable with the blue wrap is a secondary bonnet release)

 

[DenisMc]

Thank you all for your useful replies. Much food for thought!

[DenisMc]

Hi all. As mentioned I had already bought a supposedly OE quality valve from Moss so today I fitted it. Quite straightforward except that I has to disconnect the petrol injection line to cylinder 6 so that the valve could be rotated. Guess what? It was full of crud as you suggested as was the adaptor that screws into the head. The bore of the heater feed pipe looked very clean as no water was getting through. Great to have heat! Clearly I need to drain, flush and refill the whole system before winter sets in.