maybe it is the inertia switch...

[Casar66]

Marco, even that I am quite sure that your problem ist not my one: never say never. At least it is another possibility to solve my problem. Like some others. I do not see another way than to to drive and wait till it pops up again. And then step by step. Or replace everything and hope that  it will help. The later ist not my way.

[Z320]

Cas, you have to do anything.

If you don't believe, why don't you simply go back to original contact braker, adjust them well and drive the next 500 miles this way?

[Casar66]

Because I have driven 500mls without any problems with exactly that configuration after the symptoms came up. That is exactly the problem. I can drive for 10 minutes , then stop. wait a little (5 minutes or 1hour, depends) and drive again. For 5 minutes. Then stop again. Or I can drive hundred of miles or weeks with plenty of short trips before it came up again. Entirely independent of outside temperature, fuel-level, driving speed, revs, ecetera.

For your description I would expect a more regular occurrence with a higher predictability. 

 

[Mike C]

Have you tried connecting the 2 wires from the inertia switch, bypassing it totally? Sure sounds like a wiring or electrical component  intermittent connection somewhere.

Edited October 31, 2019 by Mike C

[Casar66]

yes I didi. But that does not mean anything, because like I have mentioned before I can drive for weeks without any problems so the evidence of cause and symptom is not easy. I just can not say, yes, that was it. I have to drive and wait if it comes up again.

Then

1. have a look at the ignition pistol which I have permanent connected and is lying on the passenger seat. It is firing or not? If not, change the connected cable from a spark plug to the central cable from coil to distributor. With that I can separate coil from distributor (pickup, finger something else) 

2. listen to the fuel fuel pump. Still running?

3. check if the cable from ignition lock to coil has power.

If I there is time enough to check these points, I am sure to identify the cause or at least I come closer. But for doing that the phenomenon has to last long enough. 

[Mike C]

I'd do 2 before I cranked the engine over after stopping , then 1 then 3. For 3 you could set up a voltmeter to watch the coil input while you are driving, like you have with the timing pistol.

[Casar66]

After 5 month of trial and error I was keen to found the cause, the ignition lock. Ignition itself was ok ( I drive with a timing light and could see, that there was always ignition even when the engine went off. I tried with the timing light after the coil and before distributor and after distributor as well. The gun was always lightning. Today after 10minutes of wonderful driving I went shopping and after app. 15min I startet the engine but after 20sec. it went off and was not willing to restart. Then I did some shaking and wiggling the inertia switch, the fusebox and than the engine ran again. The trip back home with noch problems. What I noticed was the changing sound of the fuel pump. In the moment the engine went off the pump became louder, nearly a howling sound. The same at the unsuccessful attempts to start. I know that sound (at hot temperatures or/and at longer trips) from my old pump short before it  knocked down. But the sound of the fuel pump at the successful start attempt was smooth and normal like ever. 

[Robert Price]

Could it be debris which is moving around and blocking the fuel supply in the tank which would affect the pump sound? when stopped fuel may drain into the supply pipe enough to start the car, after a few minutes, then movement disloges the obstruction till next time. 

Rob

 

 

[Kevo_6]

Worth checking the small plastic strainers in the fuel lines, usually there is one at the metering unit end, one to the PRV and one to the pump. I had similar symptoms, had the PRV rebuilt and then I found that one strainer had collapsed so bought a second hand one of those and now all fine. Not sure if it was the strainer or the PRV or even a mixture of both. I suppose I should of changed one at a time but I was too keen to give it a good blast.

Edited April 12, 2020 by Kevo_6
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[Richard Green 54]

Sounds like a standard case of fuel pump cavitation caused by pump overheating and/or poor fuel delivery from the tank to the pump. In my experience both the Bosch and original Lucas pumps howl when starved of fuel.

[Casar66]

thanks, I agree, it should be something wrong with the fuel supply. I guess it is on the way from tank to the pump, because the "howling" results from too less fuel supply. So I must check the tank. I have ordered already a new filter, maybe that one has a mistake. If that is not successful I have to checke the whole fuel way. Ten years ago I had a problem with the fuel supply too. It was a seal from the lead substitute which founded its way in the tank. But then the engine stopped at a point and that was it. Stupid.

But today is more tricky. I will have a look for a container/canister for the fuel. Of course the tank ist full. 

[stevenphillips]

Hi Cas

Just a thought,  would it be worth taking a spar spark plug with you so that next time it happens you can remove the HT lead from cylinder no1 and turn the engine over to see you still have a spark, (insulated grips to hold the plug on the engine otherwise you may get a but of a shock ) that won't necessarily rule out the ignition as the spark when running in the cylinder could be performing differently, but it may help (I understand it's intermittent)

Also with Marco's explanation I fear he may not have pointed out his drawing/picture is for a four cylinder and not a 6 cyLinder as the points on his paperwork are at 90 degrees to each other representing the pickups of the distributor cap. When you look at it in this way and see it's for a 4 cylinder the explanation makes sense.

Steve

[Casar66]

Steve, 

meantime I am pretty sure that it is not the ignition (see my post from yesterday). There was always ignition.

[John L]

I have found these really useful for checking if you have sparks, a red light flashes in the middle for every spark, can had singly or in sets of 4 or 6

https://simonbbc.com/sparkrite-spark-plug-tester-single/

John

Edited April 12, 2020 by John L

[Casar66]

even it will not help me now it is a nice tool. I will get one set.

Edited April 12, 2020 by Casar66

[Richard Green 54]

On 10/30/2019 at 10:22 PM, Z320 said:

Sounds not like heat problem?

I would tend to agree but...  You have to take into account the amount of heat soak, ambient temperature, temperature of the fuel in the tank, amount of fuel in the tank, whether there is an 'R' in the month...

[Casar66]

No, it happenes in the cold too. With cold or warm engine. 

Tomorrow I will have a look at the tank and filter for particles.

[jah]

This happened to me turned out to be the rubber seal in the fuel cap did'nt have a breather hole. with a full tank engine would cut out after about 10 minutes of driving. the lower the fuel level in the tank  longer the engine ran. Made a hole in the rubber seal & this cured all the the cutting out.

[Z320]

If this is the case you should hear a suspicious sucking noise when you open the petrol cap?

[Casar66]

no, my tank-cap ist ok, there is no vacuum, I have checked that first.

[Gary Flinn]

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a lump of congealed fuel or something which blocked the outlet from the Fuel Tank?

It drove me mad for nearly 6 months, so it's well worth checking the fuel tank, remove, drain and a good clean out and see what comes out. 

If you've not changed the fuel lines for a while may be worth changing for new R14 Grade Ethanol resistant type on the low pressure side too, a lot of recent press about the effects of Ethanol on old rubber pipes.

Gary 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[sheldricka]

I once found this in my tank blocking the outlet, the PO used a sealer around the sender joint rather than a cork gasket. I suffered the engine cutting in & out until it finally blocked completely. I assume the sealer had gone soft around the sender over time and finally dropped in. I changed the tank shortly after as I was forever getting tiny bits of sealer working through the system!

[Casar66]

Heureka, it is done!

I must admit that I a feel not that comfortable if I give you the cause: It was a damn f..... seal again. The same then 10 years ago.

But what worries me: None of my bottles is missing a seal and one thing is for sure: I was always very concentrated and have paid full attention when I filled  in the lead-substitute. I really have no clue. Maybe I am not as popular as I always thought and someone tries to make me mad.

Edited April 14, 2020 by Casar66

[Kevo_6]

Good result, well done for perseverance.

[john.r.davies]

1 hour ago, Casar66 said:

 

That tool looks useful, Casar!

Tell us about it, please?    Not seen one before, except posisbly in the endoscopy suite at hospital!