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Floor pan "Jack Hole" Rubber Plug?


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Does the large diameter rubber plug, or more precisely the hole that the plug fits in, on both sides of the floor pans actually serve any useful purpose?

Other than for pure pedantic originality, is there any good reason why, during a full restoration, the hole can't just be plated/welded shut and thereby reduce the tendency for the floor to flex in that area?

Answers on a post card please!

Dave McD

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As you state the hole is for the jack....but only on TR 2-4 where the chassis passes next to the hole and the simple pillar lack fits to a bracket on the inner face of the chassis rail

I also suspect it was retained as it formed a paint drain hole for when the shell was dip primed.   A Similar big hole is found in the rear of the boot floor.

 

Peter W

 

PS Do not forget the floor panel hole was the same size from TR 2-6.  TR 2 originally used a steel plug retained by a spring strap. These are currently being remade by me.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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"Covert urinal?" 

Ceci n'est pas un trou ?

(OK that was Dechamps not Magritte but still.......)

Edited by RobH
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The swaging round it does also strengthen the panel at that point to stop the "Oil can" effect. Just fit new rubbers and Evostik them in place. (Believe it or not thats what they hold the rubber bungs in washing machine drums with.)

Stuart.

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You may well laugh, but…

I intend modifying the “U” shaped bracket welded to the chassis (the bit that the standard jack slots into.)
I’m going to weld a piece of 6mm steel plate over the top of the bracket and in the middle of the plate will be a 25mm hole..

In my drive I intend to bury a piece of 100mm dia. drainpipe, going down 1 mtr, with it’s open end flush with the drive surface.

When I park the car I can position it so that the bung hole is above the drainpipe.

As an anti theft device I can then pull the rubber bung out, drop a piece of 25mm steel rod  (1.25 mtr long) through the hole and into the drainpipe.

By replacing the rubber bung and the carpet no one will know it’s there.

Anyone trying to drive or even tow the car away will find it almost impossible.
And without a lot of messing about they won’t understand why.

 

Also, many years ago I had a lot of soil to dispose of.

It occoured to me that I could carry buckets of it in the TR and drop it, a handful at a time, through the jack hole onto the road as I drove to work.

Although I never did actually try it.(I think I got the idea from "The great escape".)

 

It does show how useful that hole can be though.

Charlie,.

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Here are the newly remade steel plugs grouped around the section of floor they are tested in

 


Steel plug originally from TR 2. Wlil fit all TR2-6 instead of the rubber bung 

 

Peter W

image.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/24/2019 at 8:05 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Here are the newly remade steel plugs grouped around the section of floor they are tested in

 


Steel plug originally from TR 2. Wlil fit all TR2-6 instead of the rubber bung 

 

Peter W

image.jpeg

PM Me if you want to buy.

GB £ 20.00 each including UK P&P

Cheers

Peter W

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Peter,

I'm lucky with the rubber plugs since I use stronger carpets and my wife can not step out plugs anymore like changing shirts.

Just for my interest: how did you make the steel plugs? You used a positiv / negativ punch and a hydraulic press? 

Ciao, Marco 

Edited by Z320
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Yes fully developed blank which is then pressed using punch and die tooling on a power press.

Final sizing using different re-strike punch and die with controlled powered 'hit'.

Peter W

 

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