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Have a non interent group member, who is struggling to get close to fitting a new hood.

Asks the following, can anybody supply the measurement along the centre line of the hood  from say adjacent to the filler cap right over to the edge of the hood on the windscreen frame, think he needs to know wether it is his new hood or him!

We have discussed, cold, warming the material, but he reckons, it not even close.

Cheers,

John.

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John

Can I ask where the hood came from. I am having the same issues. Mine is a Robbins Hood which I purchased via The Roadster Factory. It is about an inch to small (measuring from windscreen to back pegs). No amount of warming /stretching will get it close and the seams do not line up with the bows. I am using a professional upholsterer to fit mine and he has had 40 years experience in the trade.

Brian

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10 hours ago, brian-nz said:

John

Can I ask where the hood came from. I am having the same issues. Mine is a Robbins Hood which I purchased via The Roadster Factory. It is about an inch to small (measuring from windscreen to back pegs). No amount of warming /stretching will get it close and the seams do not line up with the bows. I am using a professional upholsterer to fit mine and he has had 40 years experience in the trade.

Brian

Hi Brian,

have you checked the bows positions against a factory dimension at all?

If the webbing is on in the incorrect position, the hood will not fit.

Bob

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This diagram and link will help check the frame and webbing you have for accuracy, from Teriann’s very useful website.www.tr3a.info

TR_bows.gif

Iain

Edited by iain
Grammar!
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Hi Bob and Iain

Yes I have checked the webbing and bow positions -TRF sent me that diagram after I indicated that there was a problem. A friend who has a TR2 lent be his set of bows (he currently has his hardtop on) and his soft top. We (upholsterer and I) checked friends bows against mine and they are close to identical. We did this to eliminate the bows. Next we fitted my friends top and although it is a couple of years old it fitted like a glove. 

The new hood - when fitting from the back and trying to attach to the windscreen will not go and the bow seams are way off. Attaching to windscreen first the first two seams are closer but the back seam is off and even an extreme amount of pulling will not attach to the back pegs. Measuring friends hood and new one there is an obvious difference. Some difference can be attributed to friends one being weathered but the new one doesn't come close. Attached is a photo of the back -this is with stretching as far as it will go.

Robbins 12.JPG

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I don’t see the problem

Try erecting the hood as per the owners manual. It will over come this “shortness” and ensure a tight weather 

proof hood

Try this video.

 

Iain

 

 

Edited by iain
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As Iain suggested I have little to no chance of fitting the hood with the frame fully erect as it looks pretty much like yours. 
Break the over centre link at each side and fit the hood along the windscreen and the back of the h frame leaving the last two fittings behind the doors on each side unattached. 
You can then reach in ( best done with one person each side) and push up the apex bow with one hand while pulling the over centre straight with the other hand. The frame should then pop into place under the hood. The windscreen flexes a bit as the tension comes on. The four remaining lift the dots can be fitted to complete the job. 

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I always fit the back first and then the screen. I have never seen any of our members fit the top the other way around. You can't get a grip on the hood at the back to pull it down.

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Hi John

Yes I have always fitted my old hood from the back first. I tried the new one both ways. Either way the seams do not line up with the hood bows. I Have also tried relaxing the bows as suggested in the video but when putting back up it creates a huge amount of pressure on the windscreen frame. I know the hood needs to be a tight fit but this is beyond tight. Given that the seams don't line up I believe that the hood has not been made correctly. It will be interesting to see where Johns friend one came from. Perhaps a bad batch?. I am working with TRF who in turn have gone back to Robbins. Waiting for there conclusion.

Brian

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9 hours ago, brian-nz said:

Hi John

Yes I have always fitted my old hood from the back first. I tried the new one both ways. Either way the seams do not line up with the hood bows. I Have also tried relaxing the bows as suggested in the video but when putting back up it creates a huge amount of pressure on the windscreen frame. I know the hood needs to be a tight fit but this is beyond tight. Given that the seams don't line up I believe that the hood has not been made correctly. It will be interesting to see where Johns friend one came from. Perhaps a bad batch?. I am working with TRF who in turn have gone back to Robbins. Waiting for there conclusion.

Brian

Hi Brian, an unusual problem. 

I have found on my 2 TR2s, a mates TR2 and on another mates 3A that the hood bow measurements in the diagram above aren't correct. The vertical distance above the top of the screen to the front bow is closer to 2", not 4". At 4" the top looks quite unusual and often the tops don't fit, like yours.

The other measurements are close noting that the distance between the front two bows is fixed so the only one that can be really adjusted is the rear bow.

We have our National Rally next weekend. Two couples from NZ are joining us.

Edited by John McCormack
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My tight fitting hood would also vibrate against the front bar of the frame when travelling at speed - very irritating! So I applied a black, glue-backed velcro strip to the front bar of the frame and also to the hood. Problem solved.

Over time I expect the strip on the hood will detach itself but the glue is pretty strong and as I am not whipping the hood on and off repeatedly, that should take quite a while.

Miles

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Originally there was some felt type material on top of the plates that secure the webbing to the bars, this helps.

Stuart.

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