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Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods?

Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted.

Thanks

David

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That's a very good idea David. I'd much rather have a cable operated throttle system for my 3A.

No lost movement through linkages and wear and tare. 

Tom.

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Yes did it in the '70's when the throttle linkage cost about a fiver to renew.

There are a couple of distinct challenges.

Attaching the inner cable to the pedal and creating and outer cable stop bracket at the carbs.

Triumph Tune used to make a clamp to go round the throttle pedal  bar to take the cable nipple (think bicycle brake inner cable)  Item is TT9918, but at over 40 quid I'd make my own!   https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?search_group=&q=tt9918   I used a 'P' clip round the accel/throttle pedal rod above the brake pedal.

Attaching the cable to the carbs - Just add a clamped lever to the linkage between the two carbs.

The outer cable stop bracket can be made from a strip of metal between the two inner air filter attachment bolts on the carbs.  I have K&N filters so just added an metal bracket from a Mini.

I will get to the car tomorrow and do some footwell photos.

Cheers

Peter W

This is the underbonnet with HS6 carbs  You can see the cable outer casing stop and the lever clamp on the link between the two carbs.

In the footwell view you can see the use of a PI TR5-6 accel cable.  The outer casing has a stop swaged to it that fits in a hole in the bulkhead and it extends through so the inner wire does not chaff.  The P clip is quite visible on the pedal shaft as is the spare inner wire tucked behind the bracket work.

 

Carb cable installation.jpg

TR Accel Pedal end.JPG

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
photo

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I'm seriously considering trying this over the winter. I get engine surge at small throttle openings when negotiating bumpy roads, which I am convinced is caused by engine/body movement pulling on the linkage (and yes the engine mounts are in good condition). A cable would cure that. 

Edited by RobH

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37 minutes ago, RobH said:

I'm seriously considering trying this over the winter. I get engine surge at small throttle openings when negotiating bumpy roads, which I am convinced is caused by engine/body movement pulling on the linkage (and yes the engine mounts are in good condition). A cable would cure that. 

You can also get this if your linkages are too tight,

Stuart.

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Thanks  Stuart. I'll check that first.

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3 hours ago, RobH said:

Thanks  Stuart. I'll check that first.

It may sound silly but unless theres a bit of slack when you press the pedal then if you have your foot on the throttle the slightest bump will make you open the throttle a bit and it only takes a little opening at low speed in first and it will give you jerky progress.

Stuart.

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5 hours ago, RobH said:

I'm seriously considering trying this over the winter. I get engine surge at small throttle openings when negotiating bumpy roads, which I am convinced is caused by engine/body movement pulling on the linkage (and yes the engine mounts are in good condition). A cable would cure that. 

I’ve had the same problem on my TR3 for some years and have failed miserably to make any improvement by fiddling with engine mounts, carburettors or timing......I still think that I could have a mixture problem at extremely low throttle openings. The mixture is spot on with a probe in the exhaust but that’s at no load and I haven’t got around to testing the theory on a rolling road. 
The search function reveals instances of similar symptoms but none of the threads reveal a solution. 
A cable throttle is on my list to try over the winter. 

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I had this problem in the early years of ownership......the throttle linkage bush was change and problem solved. Chance ...maybe.

Iain

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13 hours ago, iain said:

I had this problem in the early years of ownership......the throttle linkage bush was change and problem solved. Chance ...maybe.

Iain

Chilliman suggested that bush as a possible culprit too. Looks like a bit of potholing in the footwell for me. 

Edited by Drewmotty

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The bush was "well bushed" or other such terms beginning with B:D

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Is the quadrant MX5 too? It looks like a good way of linking to the rod  

 

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Nice job......another project for my little Myford :-)

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Hi David,

I have used a cable throttle for many years on my Hillclimbing TR3, scrutineers prefer cables to linkages. I have used HIF SUs and Webers at different times and cables make the switchover easy. I use the Triumphtune block which attaches to the throttle pedal and my homemade 'Heath Robinson' device at the carb end for the SUs, I have the pukka device for the Webers.

I hope this helps.

Regards,

Cliff

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Ratco here in the states, better known as a maker of replacement frames, also supply a nice throttle cable kit. I used one on a TR250 many years ago and liked it so much I adapted it to fit dual DCOEs on a Alfa Spider.

 

Link 1: http://www.rat-co.com/throttle-linkage-kit

 

Link 2: http://www.74tr6.com/ratcolinkage.htm

THROTTLE LINKAGE PHOTOS 040.jpg

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Thanks for all of the responses and ideas.

I’ll make/buy a block for the throttle pedal and make a ‘stop’ bracket for the carb end of things.

Levers etc are easy to buy from Burlen.

David

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