Jump to content

Honeybourne Mouldings Back Light and Surrey Top


Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I am thinking to go for a Honeybourne Surrey Top rather than refurbish/fit the original factory soft top on my 1965 TR4a currently under full restoration.

I'm pretty sure somewhere on the Forum I have seen comments re this item, but a search has not come up with anything . 

Hopefully there is some up to date comment describing experiences in buying and fitting these items.  I have seen comments with regard fitting the original aluminium backlight and top, which seems to frustrate some owners. Does the Honeybourne one take into account the differences between the forward sections  differences on the rear deck of the 4 and 4a?

Finally, does the Honeybourne repro look similar to the original when fitted and are there are any owners photo's out there showing the Honeybourne fitted. Also does the glass backlight window offered by Moss as an option to Perspex fit. I presume Moss sell the same item?

Any comments /advise appreciated.

Rich

Link to post
Share on other sites

We must be doing things differently enter Honeybourne in the Search box and...

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/search/&q=Honeybourne

8 pages of posts (maybe 60 plus individual postings) going back to 2005) That's what I get. Your last question is answered in amongst the last posts where it's stated "that the Honeybourne does not fit quite as accurately as the Moss item. The original glass can be used in a Moss repro backlight" is stated. 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, clearly I used the wrong wording in the search engine, doh!  Using Honeyborne as you say there is plenty of info. Thanks Rich

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I have a Honeybourne rear section, If you buy one of theirs ready made then yes you can tell the difference as they have a larger lip around the window than the originals and look a bit clunky in comparison to my mind. They are a reasonably good fit and will fit both 4 and 4a deck extensions by doing the same as you would with an original which is delete the forward stud if fitting to a 4a to accommodate the waisted deck extensions. I havent tried the fibre roofs to go with as I managed to pick up a very nice steel roof cheaply.

When I did mine I bought the frame bare from Moss and trimmed the window lip down to 10mm as recommended by Moss for fitting a glass window and then bought an unfinished perspex window from Honeybourne as I dont think the new repro rear glasses will last the course with the fibre frame as they dont have the strength across the top centre and being laminate they dont bend at all (Believe me I tried to fit it and having broke two gave up!) So I cut the perspex window to the same size as a glass one and using a new original type rear rubber and trim fitted that instead.I also bonded a section of wood up under the top of the frame to allow the fitting of a high level brake light. I took a lot of care filling, priming and painting to get it to look the same as an original as fibre is always a little ripply (and FWIW they have subsequently re-done the mould for it so they are a lot better) I fitted an original head lining inside and Roger kindly spun up the two cup mouldings to fit underneath the rear roof fixings (not available new now) and also he supplied the nice stainless plates to stop the paint getting damaged where the soft frame fits into it.

In short it did turn into a bit of a Ben Hur but unless you actually walk up to it and tap the window you cant tell the difference between it and a genuine one and (not counting the broken glass!!) cost 1/4 of the price of a genuine one.

Now I know what it involves I would do it again as it does look the part.

Pictures below, the red one is a standard Honeybourne one and the others is mine

Stuart.

 

Surrey top and backlight 001.jpg

Surrey top and backlight 003.jpg

Surrey top and backlight 004.jpg

IMG_0008.jpg

IMG_0009_1200x880 - Copy.jpg

Looe-2 - Copy.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can see an awful crack in the glass on the first red backlight photo Stuart.

:lol:

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Stuart,

So effectively you have increased the window size in the Honeyborne to reduce the appearance of chunkiness around the window  compared with the original. Seems like the way to go and would not be a problem for me as long as the two parts are available, frame and unfinished Perspex window.  I will  talk to Honeybourne. I may also go for the fibre top which I guess should match and fit the frame. Both will need to be painted Wedgewood blue so will have to be sanded and primed which should resolve any ripple issues.

Will keep you posted

Thanks Rich

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, rvwp said:

Thanks Stuart,

So effectively you have increased the window size in the Honeyborne to reduce the appearance of chunkiness around the window  compared with the original. Seems like the way to go and would not be a problem for me as long as the two parts are available, frame and unfinished Perspex window.  I will  talk to Honeybourne. I may also go for the fibre top which I guess should match and fit the frame. Both will need to be painted Wedgewood blue so will have to be sanded and primed which should resolve any ripple issues.

Will keep you posted

Thanks Rich

 

You can get the window uncut but to do it properly you need access to a glass window to be able to trim the uncut window properly to size, I obviously had one I could do this with. The window rubber came from Moss, its not easy to get the window fitted as its a bit floppy and is easier done with the frame on the car.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I purchased and fitted a "Honeybourne" surrey top on my car a couple of years ago.

The backlight is a good fit as you have the rubber seal along the base to take up any slight irregularities.

The finish and fit of the top is problematic. Although Honeybourne may have since overcome defects.

Do not expect to just paint and fit.

I modified the top to suit my requirements, including some additional fibreglass and filler work.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Malbaby said:

The finish and fit of the top is problematic. Although Honeybourne may have since overcome defects.

Do not expect to just paint and fit.

I modified the top to suit my requirements, including some additional fibreglass and filler work.

Indeed. Needs filler and grinding the corners

 

 

 

lid1.jpg

060.jpg

lid rainchannel.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was having very early thoughts of buying one of these in order to accommodate a Revington TR roll over bar https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr9148-1bk/name/rob-road-tr4a-6-hard-top-no-diagonal that I was thinking of buying (as well as fitting a rear firewall Mick).   I have an original steel backlight (left on at all times) and metal hardtop (rarely fitted) but have a recollection that I would have to grind some of the backlight away to fit the bar under and would rather not damage an original item.  It seems that the Honeybourne item will involve a bit more effort and skill that I'd thought so will look into it a bit more.       

Paul

Edited by PaulAnderson
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Paul,

There are also bars that will fit under your top - plus, of course, you could have a bar made to fit closely.

Obviously, it won't "hide" inside the backlight like the Revington's one, but it would mean you get to keep the original. 

Your call, of course. 

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, TorontoTim said:

Hi Paul,

There are also bars that will fit under your top - plus, of course, you could have a bar made to fit closely.

Obviously, it won't "hide" inside the backlight like the Revington's one, but it would mean you get to keep the original. 

Your call, of course. 

Tim

Yes one of our local club members has a Surrey with a bar under it., It does rather restrict anything behind the seats.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On my third one now and I think they fit and look good. Most wouldn't know they were fibreglass. I was able to get them painted body colour prior to Honeybourne fitting the window. The TR250 has red vinyl lining fitted too.

I would recommend them unless you want to pay £1000's for a real one.

Colin

0_20190418_181649.jpg

0_20190418_181700.jpg

0_101_0985.JPG

0_20170820_160252 (1).jpg

0_20190512_102835.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

image.thumb.png.30b12d2e3d5393a55a965f7bbe0a6f46.png

I have one, with perspex window, as I wanted minimum weight, and am generally pretty happy with it (esp as I now have press-stud trailing edge fittings for the soft top - since the above pic was taken). At a passing glance you wouldn't know it from a proper Surrey... from the outside anyway. Inside you'd need to coat the raw GRP of the backlight, assuming it bothered you.

Nigel 

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, Bleednipple said:

. Inside you'd need to coat the raw GRP of the backlight, assuming it bothered you.

Nigel 

I needed a new headling in the hard roof so I did all mine in one go.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/12/2019 at 9:28 AM, Motorsport Mickey said:

You can see an awful crack in the glass on the first red backlight photo Stuart.

:lol:

Mick Richards

A good polish will sort it

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Suzanne, everybody else is asleep or thought it was an asinine comment !

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Colin

When you fitted the Surrey top to your TR6 were you able to utilise the TR6 hard top mounting points for the back light or did you have to make modifications to the car? Also did you manage to use the TR6 hood fixings for the top of the windscreen for the Surrey's fabric top?

George 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi George,

I removed the B post caps and drilled holes to accommodate the studs. I removed the 2 studs behind those, as it would be impossible to get a nut in from underneath. This still gives you 7 studs to rigidly mount it. I used the Revington TR kit to utilise the TR6 hood frame mounts on the header rail. I was not happy about relying on the lip of the windscreen frame top.

Colin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Colin 

I have been thinking of a Surrey Top for a while to give a bit more space in the back for our dog, and have even looked at a tatty TR4 with a Surrey top with an eye to trading my TR3 but it was just to far apart with the finance.

I wondered about fitting one to my TR6 but didn't want something that is a bodge, or involved non reversible changes to the car. Also I had heard that the standard fixing over the screen was a bit marginal so a proper conversion kit sounds ideal. especially as the hood on my car will require changing in the not to distant future 

Tomorrow's job is calls to Honeybourne and Revington

George 

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Thanks Suzanne, everybody else is asleep or thought it was an asinine comment !

Mick Richards

Mick it wasn’t me it was he who didn’t identify himself.  :0)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.