mike gos Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 I am in the process of fitting a new hood and am unsure of some measurements . Could someone please let me know the distances between the hood frame centres. I realise the front distance to the header rail is fixed because of the internal clips on the hood. I need to know the distance from thee first to the second frame and also from the second to the third. Also the distance from the centre of the third frame to the long pegs on the back rail. Also could someone let me know the measurement on the front header rail from the rivet holes to the front edge of the hood retaining lip. Many thanks in anticipation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badhuis Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 ? A TR4 hood does not have a front header rail. Are you sure you are talking about a TR4 and not TR4a which has a very different hood (with front header rail)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike gos Posted October 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 Thanks for your reply Badhuis. I have probably described it wrongly. In the Moss catalogue it is part no 806189 Capping strip. It is the part that the front of the hood tucks under. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 (edited) Mike Here are some measurements from my TR4 to assist. The two " longer " pegs ( 611670 ) on the central rear capping should be approximately 9" / 23 cm inboard from the rear wing chrome divider. Ensure your metal frame is straight , not distorted before you start. Frames are not bomb proof and can be twisted. The aim is to get the best fit of hood to body , with the hood in it's "fully up and locked " position. The attachment to the body's " B " post is an overlock device which tensions the frame upwards against the resistance of the secured hood and finally clamps it tight , in the fully closed position. The tensioning and locking is the last bit of the process , once the hood is fully secured around it's perimeter. Your hood should have two flaps of material, with three press studs to go around the front frame rail ( to stop the hood billowing in use ). The Frame then , pulled apart from the folded position ( watch you fingers ! ) you will see that the position of front / middle / back hoops in relation to one another cannot be altered / adjusted in any way. Measurements for the webbing , bearing in mind that the plates and the pop rivets will NOT be a strict right angle 90 degrees to the body , more a slanted angle. Front to middle : - inboard 11" / 28cm outboard 10 3/4" / 27.5 cm Middle to Back inboard 9" / 23cm outboard 8 5/8" / 22cm. The final measurement Back Frame to the long peg , on mine is ( measurement taken on centre line of webbing , from front edge of plate to peg is 22" / 55cm. However !! this is the only time and place you have to tweak the distance for the best possible fit.Since the frame cross bars won't move position , you can tie a piece of string to the back cross bar and the peg and experiment with the final / best position. Leave plenty of webbing material to double back on itself at the end before stitching it. This will give you a firm base to punch out your lift the dot fixing. When you're "playing around " with it , never loose sight of whether the frame is " fully up and tensioned " or not ! Hope I haven't confused you too much ? Any clarification need .. don't be afraid to shine a light on my obvious mistake Ha, ha I do hope there aren't any. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/weather-equipment/hoods-hood-frames-fittings/hood-frame-tonneau-tr4-1961-65.html Bob Edited October 9, 2019 by bob-menhennett Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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