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John McCormack

Regulators/Control box

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I have just returned from a drive in my restoration project TR2 and have the symptoms of a failed regulator. The charge light glows brightly at higher revs and glows faintly at idle.

I have done 500 miles in the car and had to replace the regulator once already. I suspect the quality of the regulators from my supplier.

Recommendations of where to get a high quality regulator will be gratefully received.

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Hi John,

Recently, I bought a solid state one from http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/ for my TR3 race car build.

I’m unlikely to ever use it (it’s never been fitted) and could sell it to you if that helps. It may help your situation as these are far better than those regulators having mechanical innards.

However, they are polarity sensitive and from memory the unused one I have if for a negative earth car.

if of interest, you have my email address etc.

David

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Hi John,

have a look through the search facility.

I found this in one hit 

 

 

Roger

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I have a 6 Volt version of the above (Dynamo & Regulator conversions) solid state regulator in my 1935 Hillman. I have also installed one in a freind's AC Greyhound. I would recommend them as fit & forget.

Re the existing one, the light can only come on if the "cut in" contacts in the reg are not closed (or closed properly so as to make a good electrical contact).

I suggest as a first step, clean the contacts with very fine abrasive paper, blow away any debris, & try the car again. if that does not improve things, then do the same with the regulator contacts (the smaller ones).

The fact that the light get brighter as revs increase suggests that the dynamo is working.  What does the ammeter show ?

 

Bob

Edited by Lebro

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Make a bridge with a cabel from F to D on the regulator, this us what the regulator does up to about 1.500 revs.

Don't drive, just play with the revs from 1.000-1.500, the light must go out now.

If not, it is not the regulator.

One question to understand you correctly: this did not work with a first regulator and not with a second regulator so your hope is a third regulator?

Edited by Z320

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1 hour ago, david ferry said:

Hi John,

Recently, I bought a solid state one from http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/ for my TR3 race car build.

I’m unlikely to ever use it (it’s never been fitted) and could sell it to you if that helps. It may help your situation as these are far better than those regulators having mechanical innards.

However, they are polarity sensitive and from memory the unused one I have if for a negative earth car.

if of interest, you have my email address etc.

David

Thanks David. These look promising.

I am trying to keep this car original as it may have left the dealer. As such I am retaining +ve earth. But I will look at one of these if I can't find another solution.

I haven't fitted the carbies you provided yet. At the moment I am just enjoying getting a few miles on the car to sort out any issues. The only main one I have, apart from the charging, is it overheats too easily. I put an original 4 blade fan on, to keep it original, but it just won't do it. I have a 6 bladed fan which I subsequently learnt was an option out here, what was called a tropical fan. I just need to work up the courage to take the front apron off to change them over.

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1 hour ago, Lebro said:

I have a 6 Volt version of the above (Dynamo & Regulator conversions) solid state regulator in my 1935 Hillman. I have also installed one in a freind's AC Greyhound. I would recommend them as fit & forget.

Re the existing one, the light can only come on if the "cut in" contacts in the reg are not closed (or closed properly so as to make a good electrical contact).

I suggest as a first step, clean the contacts with very fine abrasive paper, blow away any debris, & try the car again. if that does not improve things, then do the same with the regulator contacts (the smaller ones).

The fact that the light get brighter as revs increase suggests that the dynamo is working.  What does the ammeter show ?

 

Bob

Thanks Bob. I will do that in the morning. I did that to the last one which got it working but it didn't last.

The ammeter shows no charge, 0.  It shows a discharge with lights on but no +ve.

These regulators are supplied to Fergie tractors through a dealer here. I don't think they are up to car use.

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  I seem to recall a thread a couple of months ago had a similar fault which it turned out to be just bad contacts in a brand new regulator. Maybe there is a bad batch of the new ones out there which have poor materials in the contacts..  

 

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Your always advised to clean the contacts before using new regulators and use a strip of card pulled through the contacts, that doesnt leave any abrasive residue.

Stuart.

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22 hours ago, stuart said:

Your always advised to clean the contacts before using new regulators and use a strip of card pulled through the contacts, that doesnt leave any abrasive residue.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart. Yep, did that on installation. I did it again yesterday morning and the regulator started regulating.

It failed again today and a pull through of a bit if thin cardboard got it going again.

This is the 2nd one of these regulators in this car. The previous one had similar symptoms and finally failed completely.

My other daily driver TR2 had similar problems and I had to use 2 or 3 regulators to get a reliable one. However, at 20 pds each compared to 162 pds to get a solid state one I can carry a spare easily enough.

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I have an overhauled RB106 which is in a sealed plastic bag from Cox Automotive. It has the correct copper used originally for the coil and connectors. I would be willing to pas it on to an owner looking for a real unit and not rubbish made from recycled copper in India.

If you are interested send me a pm.

Thanks

Richard and Bruno

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