Ocheye Posted October 5, 2019 Report Share Posted October 5, 2019 My wiper was making a clonking noise and, checking it out, the nut on the end of the rack has come undone.The ferrule in the motor casing has almost no thread and will need replacing. I can't see what the thread is like on the rack nut (female) at the moment. I would like to know what is involved in replacing this ferrule and whether or not the rack has to be removed (I hope not as it is working well otherwise). I assume ther should also be a rubber grommet where the rack enters the bulkhead. Typically this has become apparent the day before our Autumn Leaves Run in the Yorkshire Dales which would have been my first TR event. There is a 99% chance of rain all day so I can't take a chance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 5, 2019 Report Share Posted October 5, 2019 (edited) The ferrule is available https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/electrical-system/wipers-washers/windscreen-wiper-system-tr2-4a-1953-67.html Remove the wiper bladea Undo the wiper motor mounting bolts. Remove the wiper motor lid. Pull out the rack The ferrule should come off. Use a wire brush to clean the thread. TRial fit the ferrule and nut. If everything was otherwise working fine then simply refit. Joking apart - if you have a passenger tomorrow, then consider fitting the wiper blades with NO rack and using bootlaces tie the blades together and back kinto the cabin - the passenger can then operate the blades. It does work - last year I got home form Scotland using this method. Roger Edited October 5, 2019 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted October 5, 2019 Report Share Posted October 5, 2019 You have a very understanding wife Roger. The grommet you need is 600395 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 5, 2019 Report Share Posted October 5, 2019 Hi John, she did very well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted October 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2019 I have ordered a grommet and ferrule from Revington plus an emergency bonnet release. I decided not to do the run as I would be on my own. I did 1500 miles in my 1927 Morris in pretty much constant rain with no working wiper a coupe of years ago. I could do sweeps by hand but the wiper only clears an area the size of a small postcard. It was actually much better to open the top half of the window and wipe my glasses occasionally! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted October 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2019 17 hours ago, RogerH said: Remove the wiper bladea Undo the wiper motor mounting bolts. Remove the wiper motor lid. Pull out the rack The ferrule should come off. Use a wire brush to clean the thread. TRial fit the ferrule and nut. If everything was otherwise working fine then simply refit. Is it tricky to get the rack back into the right position afterwards? Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted October 6, 2019 Report Share Posted October 6, 2019 Very nice indeed.....looks superb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 6, 2019 Report Share Posted October 6, 2019 Hi Andy, if you do not take the guide tubes out then the rack simply pushes into the guide tubes. If you consider either the wheel boxes or the rack to be worn then do the following Remove the rack. Draw a vertical line across the wheel box wiper spindles. Rotate the spindles 120 degrees When you remove the rack turn it over 180 degrees. This should then give unworn wheels and rack. UNLESS some devil got there first. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted October 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2019 37 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Andy, if you do not take the guide tubes out then the rack simply pushes into the guide tubes. If you consider either the wheel boxes or the rack to be worn then do the following Remove the rack. Draw a vertical line across the wheel box wiper spindles. Rotate the spindles 120 degrees When you remove the rack turn it over 180 degrees. This should then give unworn wheels and rack. UNLESS some devil got there first. Roger Thanks Roger. I was aware of the 'rack turn' trick (I think you mentioned it on another thread). Other than the noise my wipers seem to work ok so I'll pass on that for the moment.However in your earlier reply you said 'Remove the wiper blades' - Is there a particular reason for this? Pull out the rack - At first I assumed you meant to pull it out from under the dash but now I think you mean to pull it out from the motor. Is that correct? The ferrule should come off. - Does the clevis? pull through the ferrule? Cheers Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 6, 2019 Report Share Posted October 6, 2019 Hi Andy, to replace the ferrule I think you need to take the rack out of its guide tubes from under the dash. This is done by undoing the motor mounting bolts and pulling out. . To do this the wiper blades need to come off. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted October 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2019 (edited) Thanks Roger. I'll let you know how I get on once the parts have arrived Andy Edited October 6, 2019 by Ocheye Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted October 6, 2019 Report Share Posted October 6, 2019 1 hour ago, Ocheye said: 'Remove the wiper blades' - Is there a particular reason for this? When you pull the rack out the wiper spindles will rotate, so if the wipers are still fitted your paintwork will suffer! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted October 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 On 10/5/2019 at 4:39 PM, RogerH said: Joking apart - if you have a passenger tomorrow, then consider fitting the wiper blades with NO rack and using bootlaces tie the blades together and back kinto the cabin - the passenger can then operate the blades. It does work - last year I got home form Scotland using this method. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerowen Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 On 10/5/2019 at 4:39 PM, RogerH said: Joking apart - if you have a passenger tomorrow, then consider fitting the wiper blades with NO rack and using bootlaces tie the blades together and back kinto the cabin - the passenger can then operate the blades. It does work - last year I got home form Scotland using this method. Roger Ha ha, Would have love to have witnessed that. Had a fan belt go blasting down the A1 in the early 70's, Wife's tights came off like a shot (was the 70's after all). No one was more surprised than me when it actually worked and got us home! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 (edited) One of the things I often have to repair is body castings that have been split, by turning the rack nut with the cover-plate removed. This Mazak casting makes a poor spanner! Align the rack-tube carefully or you will cross-thread the ferrule. Another common thing is crank-arms that were bent by levering them up and out of the rack-end. You should pull the horse-shoe clip and just work the crank-arm out gently. This is not an area for clumsy mechanics. Easy to damage things while working here. Edited October 9, 2019 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted October 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 11 hours ago, AlanT said: One of the things I often have to repair is body castings that have been split, by turning the rack nut with the cover-plate removed. This Mazak casting makes a poor spanner! Align the rack-tube carefully or you will cross-thread the ferrule. Another common thing is crank-arms that were bent by levering them up and out of the rack-end. You should pull the horse-shoe clip and just work the crank-arm out gently. This is not an area for clumsy mechanics. Easy to damage things while working here. Thanks Alan. I will proceed with care Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted November 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 I'm now ready to thread the steering rack back into the tubes. Do I need to remove the glove box in order to do this? I can't see any other way Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 23 minutes ago, Ocheye said: I'm now ready to thread the steering rack back into the tubes. Do I need to remove the glove box in order to do this? I can't see any other way Andy Presumably you mean wiper rack? the tubes between the motor and the wheel boxes should mean the rack will go through without any problem, as long as youve removed the wiper arms. you may need to turn the first wheelbox as the rack comes to it just to help it through. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted November 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Stupid boy! Yes, I did mean the wiper rack. Senior moment. My problem is finding the tube leading into the first wheel box through the hole in the bulkhead. The rack is attached to the motor at the moment and I'd rather not separate them if I can avoid it Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Hi Andy, in you photo at the start f the thread you can see the nut and that holds the tube. Are you suggesting the other end of the tubes has come adrift from the wheel box = bad news !!! If you have to get t the tubes then yes- the glove box comes out. There is a a small square panel behind that with 4 screws (probaby rusted in) It is all doable but rather tedious. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Hi Andy, removing the glovebox will only give you access to the wheel boxes not the tube as it's passing through the void that makes up the plenum, the end of the tube and the ferrel nut (passing through the grommet) should be outside of the plenum and with a bit of rack bending you can thread it through the tubes and wheel boxes while it's attached to the wiper motor, just get everything carefully aligned before doing up the nut. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted November 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 16 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Andy, in you photo at the start f the thread you can see the nut and that holds the tube. Are you suggesting the other end of the tubes has come adrift from the wheel box = bad news !!! If you have to get t the tubes then yes- the glove box comes out. There is a a small square panel behind that with 4 screws (probaby rusted in) It is all doable but rather tedious. Roger The tube that the ferrule nut is attached to (the one that passes through the grommet) is in place. It has a bend in it which is not shown in the workshop manual. Locating the rack into the tube on the first wheelbox is definitely where my problem lies. If I can locate this then I feel sure it will pass through easily as it came out quite easily Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted November 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 17 minutes ago, Rob Salisbury said: Hi Andy, removing the glovebox will only give you access to the wheel boxes not the tube as it's passing through the void that makes up the plenum, the end of the tube and the ferrel nut (passing through the grommet) should be outside of the plenum and with a bit of rack bending you can thread it through the tubes and wheel boxes while it's attached to the wiper motor, just get everything carefully aligned before doing up the nut. Cheers Rob I am assuming that the tube that is attached to the ferrule nut should be removed with the rack and not stay in place in the bulkhead. part of this is shown on 6-122 in the workshop manual (19 Rigid tubing - left hand side). I can't find where to poke the end of the rack into the passenger side wheelbox though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted November 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 (edited) I am assuming that the rack pokes straight into the first wheel box not (as I first thought) into another tube (the exploded drawings were a bit confusing). This is where I am finding it difficult to locate. I'm assuming from what has been said that there is no real advantage in removing the plate under the wheelbox. Edited November 22, 2019 by Ocheye Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 So long as the rigid tube is in place at the wheel box end then the rack simply feeds through and engages with the drive wheel (a bit of twiddling may be needed) and then passes on to the driver side wheel box (wiper arms off while you are doing this) ..... of course, for future access, you can take the plates off, but no need at this stage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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