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John L

Diff inner axle bearing

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How big a press is needed to get the drive shaft flange off the axle shaft to change the bearing?  Is it going to be the same sort of issue as the outer wheel bearing flange?

Does anybody have a Timken bearing number for this bearing?  Moss part number 134465.

John

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Hi John,

there are posts on here that cover the separation of the flange/bearing. Steve TR6 explained a process using the two bearing assemblies back to back.

I used a friends home made puller and it simply popped off with no force or fuss.

Roger

 

 

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19 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi John,

there are posts on here that cover the separation of the flange/bearing. Steve TR6 explained a process using the two bearing assemblies back to back.

I used a friends home made puller and it simply popped off with no force or fuss.

Roger

 

 

I have done this job 3 or 4 times in the past and use a Sykes Pickavant hub puller which can exert 10 tons! + an alum drift and a big hammer. They have never come off easierly and have always shown to have partially to have cold welded on the tapers. I have never tried the back to back method?

Bruce.

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Any consolation one of mine came off easily bolting the flanges together the other needed about 20t and went with a bang while we drunk a cup of tea. 

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I have done loads of these over the last 25 years using a 10 ton 3 leg puller.

Generally I wind it up as tight as I can get it without distorting the flange.

I then place the whole assembly on the floor and hold a large hammer/axe head against one side of the assembly between the flange and the oil seal cover, then whack the opposite side hard with another hammer. Sometimes it takes several whacks but I have not been defeated yet.

Don't point the shaft end at anything breakable as sometimes they will fly a few yards!

Neil

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Thanks for the replies, I have a friend with a 20 ton press will give that a go this week.

Does anybody have a reference for a Timken bearing, the Moss one looks too cheap?

John

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Having got the housing out of the diff, I thought that I would see some play in the bearing, but it seems to be good.

The reason I took it out,  I could lift the flange a very small amount, but now out I'm not convinced that this bearing is the problem.

I'm trying to locate a wheer wheer from the rear, I have replaced the rear hubs with some brand new ones some  time ago 17,000 miles, I cannot believe these can be the problem yet, any ideas would be helpful?

John

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23 hours ago, John L said:

Thanks for the replies, I have a friend with a 20 ton press will give that a go this week.

Does anybody have a reference for a Timken bearing, the Moss one looks too cheap?

John

The correct bearing is not a Timken taper roller item. So not an heart stopping price.

Now you have the stub axle out you should be able to read the bearing makers specification/pt no.

 

Peter W

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23 hours ago, John L said:

Thanks for the replies, I have a friend with a 20 ton press will give that a go this week.

Does anybody have a reference for a Timken bearing, the Moss one looks too cheap?

John

My advice is do not buy bearings from Moss, I expect that it is made in China? It will save you a lot of heart ache. Go to a proper industrial bearing distributor! Like BRT, in the SKF cat it quotes part number RLS9 for that application?

Bruce.

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I get my gearings from my local industrial bearing supplier (CBC). I just take the old one in and ask for alternatives from the world recognized suppliers. Because of the consequences of failure, industrial suppliers around here won't sell rubbish and they're generally cheaper than the retail car parts suppliers.

And the blokes behind the counter seem to love the challenge of sourcing parts for old cars.

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15 hours ago, John L said:

I'm trying to locate a wheer wheer from the rear, I have replaced the rear hubs with some brand new ones some  time ago 17,000 miles, I cannot believe these can be the problem yet, any ideas would be helpful?

Hi John,

don't rule out the rear hubs yet, depending where you bought them from. I fitted new rear hubs from Moss a couple of months ago

and one only lasted 1 month and 150 miles before developing excessive play and had to be replaced.

One of the previously fitted rebuilt rear hubs only lasted 5-6000 miles before becoming very noisy and notchy when turned.

Unfortunately the quality of some parts these days leaves a lot to be desired.

Dave

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