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I wish I hadn't started!


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I utterly failed to consider my appalling lack of skills when I decided to do the EFI conversion, the plumbing has been a pig but at least is almost complete, only six more hose ends to be swaged. The wiring on the other hand has been a nightmare, I bought some correct pliers from Clarke but screwed up every terminal I tried to fit, unable to find a local mobile electrician I bought some more expensive Laser pliers and have had a much better experience, still not 100% though and I'm left with little confidence in what I've done and I still have the injector loom to mate with the Emerald one with very different wire gauges involved. My advice to anyone considering this conversion, seriously consider if it's within your capabilities, I wish I'd never started!

 

 

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Better to have loved tried and lost than never to have loved tried at all.

Whatever the result you will be coming out of the experience a better, more skilled man than you went in. You will also know your car and the components and functions and so much better equipped to diagnose any future problems.

If you had simply paid to have it done how much poorer you would have been in both meanings of the word.  If it was easy we would all be doing it.

Alan

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1 hour ago, barkerwilliams said:

<snip>

Better to have loved tried and lost than never to have loved tried at all.

</snip>

Just had enough of it today Alan, I should have waited until the Winter to start this, I've lost the Summer with having the car off the road. I'm hoping to get some assistance with the wiring, one day's effort should see that finished then it's just putting the radiator & fan back in and seeing how it goes. 

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2 hours ago, barkerwilliams said:

Better to have loved tried and lost than never to have loved tried at all.

Whatever the result you will be coming out of the experience a better, more skilled man than you went in. You will also know your car and the components and functions and so much better equipped to diagnose any future problems.

If you had simply paid to have it done how much poorer you would have been in both meanings of the word.  If it was easy we would all be doing it.

Alan

Excellent advice but, If you think that's difficult try a V12 XJS; I have to sort that out before I can restart on the 6.

Jon.

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Hi Ian

Don't give up!

Better you have wired it up yourself as you will know where every wire goes and what it does. If you were closer I'd give you a hand I've done a few custom looms using Adaptronic  ecu's on various cars over the years. 

Have to agree having the best tools, ratchet crimping plyers (usually need a couple of pairs to cope with individual types) and using the best connectors you can get along terminating any wires using heat/resin spades/bullet connectors etc will save you much grief down the line as 95% of problems have their basis is duff wiring. Run the loom through plastic ducting and keep it well away from anything hot. 

Have a beer, walk away for a few days and review the situation. 

Andy

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16 minutes ago, 15eren said:

To me it looks like a 3 weber carb installation?

Cheers Tage

Jenny Heritage Throttle bodies Tage, they are meant to look like Weber DCOE's

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14 minutes ago, PodOne said:

Hi Ian

Don't give up!

Better you have wired it up yourself as you will know where every wire goes and what it does. If you were closer I'd give you a hand I've done a few custom looms using Adaptronic  ecu's on various cars over the years. 

Have to agree having the best tools, ratchet crimping plyers (usually need a couple of pairs to cope with individual types) and using the best connectors you can get along terminating any wires using heat/resin spades/bullet connectors etc will save you much grief down the line as 95% of problems have their basis is duff wiring. Run the loom through plastic ducting and keep it well away from anything hot. 

Have a beer, walk away for a few days and review the situation. 

Andy

I won't be giving up Andy, just had enough of it for today, I only have weekends to do anything on the car and that hasn't left any time to do anything else for a couple of months now. I wish having a beer was an option, I'm on some medication that has taken away my appetite for alcohol completely, last beer was 16 months ago.

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Hi Ian,

Sorry to hear from the beer.

Regarding your EFI challenge: cut the big pie in smaller pieces. Commission then one by one, if possible, it makes a better completion.

And keep them coming.

Waldi

 

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The mechanics is one thing. The wiring the next. You need to have a plan. I installed a separate fuse box. Several wirings I redid. Crimping, shrink sleeve till it was perfect. One of the advantages with Ecumaster is the Pin dedication. Very understandable. Where lies your main problem? Wiring? 

Jochem

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52 minutes ago, JochemsTR said:

The mechanics is one thing. The wiring the next. You need to have a plan. I installed a separate fuse box. Several wirings I redid. Crimping, shrink sleeve till it was perfect. One of the advantages with Ecumaster is the Pin dedication. Very understandable. Where lies your main problem? Wiring? 

Jochem

Wiring Jochem, Emerald sell a partially terminated loom, it's pre-terminated at the ECU end and all the wires are around 3m for you to cut to length. My original crimps were mangling every connection I tried to make, the second set are much better. I'm stalled at trying to mate the Vauxhall V6 injector loom to the Emerald wires, I'm using a six way connector but not sure it's right for the gauge of wiring the Vauxhall loom comes with, it's much thicker than the Emerald supplied stuff. Then I need to work out what to do with the supply & earth wiring and I should be good to power it up. The fuel side is almost sorted, mostly hard ali pipework, just need a few flexi lines to join them up.

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You can do it. I did wasted spark around 2005? maybe earlier. I just redid that harness moving EDIS module into the engine bay.  That helped clean up some of my EFI wiring which will be redone whilst my engine gets rebuilt this winter.  The new EFI harness will have non spliced wires from pin to pin.  After 8.5 years of operation, vibration, and fatigue, this is my opportunity. I have personally seen only one other TR6 with port EFI (TR6 engine) in all the shows etc I have attended.  And I haven't seen it in a long time.  I know of 2 maybe 3 other cars,in the US.  There is one in Oz.  Having someone else's car and experience can help tremendously.  But, take everyone's advice with a grain of salt.  First question should always be, "And how many years have you operated this EFI system?" How do you eat an elephant? therein lies your answer.

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I did mine in 2010 and used all of Emeralds kit and it started up first turn of the key. They are used to numpty's like me and the wiring chart was very good.

I recently did  one on a TR6 using Jenvey Heritage kit look alike Webbers with all the kit from Emeralds. Yes the crimpers were expensive but work.My mate helped me and he is colour blind!

If I can do it so can anyone else. Emeralds has a huge back up for people like us.

Regards Harry.

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13 hours ago, iani said:

Wiring Jochem, Emerald sell a partially terminated loom, it's pre-terminated at the ECU end and all the wires are around 3m for you to cut to length. My original crimps were mangling every connection I tried to make, the second set are much better. I'm stalled at trying to mate the Vauxhall V6 injector loom to the Emerald wires, I'm using a six way connector but not sure it's right for the gauge of wiring the Vauxhall loom comes with, it's much thicker than the Emerald supplied stuff. Then I need to work out what to do with the supply & earth wiring and I should be good to power it up. The fuel side is almost sorted, mostly hard ali pipework, just need a few flexi lines to join them up.

Hi Ian

I'm not familiar with Emerald but have self taught and done a few cars with Adaptronic Universal 420e with the last Turbo MX5 with traction/geared boost control running for 10 years before I wrote it off! Yes it was a hard road at the time but I learned lot and I'd love to do the same with the 6 but I'm now banned by the wife from moding anything with wheels :( but she might soften with time.

Consider running the 12v heavy gauge supply to injectors direct from the ignition key as they will draw the most current hence the heavy gauge. This should also trigger the fuel pump via a relay wired direct from the battery to avoid voltage drop at start up. Link all the earths together and ground to a single point on the shell to avoid ground loops. There might be another set of grounds from the injectors that need to go to the block. Ground any other earths either to this point or back to the earth on the ecu especially sensors as the ecu will appreciate a clean 3-5v readings. The injector triggers should go back direct to the ECU pins. Use a separate 12v wire direct from the battery for the ecu which is better being inside the car passenger footwell but not on the floor behind a ali plate under the carpet.

If your concerned with regard to the crimps then solder them as well for added security. I know some will say don't but if you heat shrink them they will be fine. I had more issues with wires rubbing through due to poor routing so take time to secure the loom well away from anything that might rub.

No beer feel sorry for you! Plenty of tea and biscuits it is. Keep at it and up dating look forward to hearing she has started up which was a great feeing for me believe me.

Andy 

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2 hours ago, harrytr5 said:

Ian you are quite welcome to look at my installation and i am just off of junction 8 M1.

Regards Harry

Thanks Harry, you have been more than helpful already. Other than splicing in the injector wiring which is only an issue of how to connect them, my remaining uncertainty is over where is best to connect the 12v supplies to, the direct one and the ignition controlled one, the latter I will likely take from my auxiliary fusebox, likewise terminating the earths needs to be decided. Today I wired up the crank & TPS sensors, MAP & IACV were already done, almost there.

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1 hour ago, PodOne said:

Hi Ian

I'm not familiar with Emerald but have self taught and done a few cars with Adaptronic Universal 420e with the last Turbo MX5 with traction/geared boost control running for 10 years before I wrote it off! Yes it was a hard road at the time but I learned lot and I'd love to do the same with the 6 but I'm now banned by the wife from moding anything with wheels :( but she might soften with time.

Consider running the 12v heavy gauge supply to injectors direct from the ignition key as they will draw the most current hence the heavy gauge. This should also trigger the fuel pump via a relay wired direct from the battery to avoid voltage drop at start up. Link all the earths together and ground to a single point on the shell to avoid ground loops. There might be another set of grounds from the injectors that need to go to the block. Ground any other earths either to this point or back to the earth on the ecu especially sensors as the ecu will appreciate a clean 3-5v readings. The injector triggers should go back direct to the ECU pins. Use a separate 12v wire direct from the battery for the ecu which is better being inside the car passenger footwell but not on the floor behind a ali plate under the carpet.

If your concerned with regard to the crimps then solder them as well for added security. I know some will say don't but if you heat shrink them they will be fine. I had more issues with wires rubbing through due to poor routing so take time to secure the loom well away from anything that might rub.

No beer feel sorry for you! Plenty of tea and biscuits it is. Keep at it and up dating look forward to hearing she has started up which was a great feeing for me believe me.

Andy 

I already power my fuel pump via a relay Andy so that's covered. I've already connected a heavy gauge supply wire to the injector loom, I just need to decide where to connect it to, I have an auxiliary fusebox which gives both permanent & ignition controlled feeds, alternatively, I have a more modern fusebox I could replace the original with which would give me more options, just need to work out how to fit that!

Ian

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I fitted an additional fuse box in the RHS footwell. The “power” is directly from the battery +ve pole, but switched via a relais. The relais is switched via the ignition.

Waldi

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Hi Ian

With regards to joining different the looms of different wire thickness these AMP connectors give you the flexibility you need.

Select Yellow/red/green  for different wire thicknesses but they use the same connectors of whichever size required 1 - 6.Note the terminals and coloured seals make the difference.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-AMP-Tyco-Superseal-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Box-Set-1-to-6-Way/132080540628?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

So it is possible to buy a 6 way 1.5-2.5 connector and a 6 way .5 to 1.5   - that would give you 2 x 6 way connections.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Way-Genuine-AMP-Superseal-Waterproof-Electrical-Wiring-Multi-Connector-/140938481537?hash=item20d0968f81

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Way-Genuine-AMP-Superseal-Electrical-Connector-Wire-Size-1-5mm-2-5mmsq-/140938481489?hash=item20d0968f51

 

NB - back to where you started you need the correct crimp tool!

Keep going though - I had so many issues with my installation, the throttle bodies had to go back, I blew a fuse in the Megasquirt unit, Head gasket went,Gearbox fork pin broke etc etc the wiring was mostly the easy bit :-)

 

Regards Paul

 

 

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2 hours ago, pheaney said:

<snip>

Keep going though - I had so many issues with my installation, the throttle bodies had to go back, I blew a fuse in the Megasquirt unit, Head gasket went,Gearbox fork pin broke etc etc the wiring was mostly the easy bit :-)

 

Regards Paul

 

 

Thanks Paul, this job started when I found corrosion in the block when I went to change the head & cam, I've ended up with a new engine, EFI system and am changing all the brake lines & servo whilst I'm at it. I've ordered one of the connectors you listed, it looks better than the 6-way one I have, it doesn't work too well with the larger wiring gauge I have.

Ian

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