Jump to content

Front mud guard T-seal alternative


Recommended Posts

I’m in the process of final fitment of the front wings. The rubber T-shape seal between the mud guard and the front wing has a very poor fit, in fact it does not seal at all, here is a link to the seal:

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/seal-baffle-plate-650172.html

I feel this part is pretty useless.

Has anyone tried a different seal, like rubber cell foam?

Thanks,

Waldi

Link to post
Share on other sites

I tend to use the type of seal found on boot lids and the like with the U shaped bottom that fits over the lip of the plate between inner and outer wing, and the soft circular rubber top bit presses against the outer wing. These are really soft and seal well, but you might need to trim the edge of the plate back a bit if the gap is too small

Neil

Link to post
Share on other sites

Having fitted loads of these over they years I dont see that they are a problem, you may need to trim the splash panel slightly or elongate the holes a bit depending on the shape of the wings but fill the outer section of the "H" with non setting seam sealer before fitting, apply screen sealer down the inside where it fits to the inner wing and then squeeze them up tight against the wing when bolting them up then smooth the excess off and round the plate job done. When I have taken wings off years after there no sign of any water ingress using that method. Its messy but it works. You usually have to trim the bottom of the seal where it meets to the sill to get it to sit right. Dont forget that you also need to make provision for the wing and plenum drains to come out of the bottom of the splash panel too. I fit a rubber flap to the bottom fixing bolt to prevent back pressure blowing back up the drains.

Stuart.

Marks TR5 788.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Stuart.

The rubber profile bulges out at the upper part. I will give it a second try.

 

Good point about the rubber drain flap too

Regards,

Waldi

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Just to let you know the end result:

I did as Stuart instructed :)

I first measured the gap between the mud guard and the front wing (without the seal installed), and had to trim the panels as it was quitte narrow, especially at the top. If the gap is too small, the mud guard will push against the front wing resulting in bending/deformation. Think I needed 10 mm gap for the T-seal I had ordered from Moss. I then glued the T-seal on the mud guard  with Polymax adhesive and 10 small C-clamps (clips). I wax-oiled the cavity behind the mud guard a couple of times, making sure all crevices were fully filled / sealed with wax oil.
After that, installation was easy.

So thank you again Stuart.

Regards,
Waldi

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Guy's

This thread does make me think about a different but linked question.

So firstly i've fitted the T seal and they are ok and the wheel arch is all stone chipped and then body colours topcoated and looks very nice after its body off repaint.

So the question is what about wheel arch liners?

In some ways will they be that important as i'm sure my car as in common with most 50 year old soft tops will be driven mainly in the dry so wet mud getting stuck in all of those 1970's rust trap crevices may be not something to worry to much about.

Thoughts or recomendations.

Cheers  Keith

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Keith,

if the TR would be driven in winter conditions, they are a good idea I think but like you I’m not planning to go driving in wet conditions often, and certainly not with salt on the road, so I will save the weight, money and effort.

Cheers,

Waldi

Link to post
Share on other sites

I made a set for the rear of my TR250 about 25 years ago by cutting up a polythene 25 litre chemical drum. I riveted it to the inner arch and used rubber seal similar to the boot seal against the outer wing.

The aluminium rivets seemed to act as a sacrificial anode and back in the days it was my daily driver used regardless of weather, the rivets used to corrode off annualy.

Don't use it in when the roads are salted any more and the rivets last quite a few years!

Neil

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've put a set of 'made to measure' fibreglass wheel arch liners in mine. Once painted with black underseal they disappear visually, and because they cover the big void between the rear wing and the rear chassis / boot floor they make the car look more of a piece.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...

Having picked up on this thread whilst in the process of underbody and wheel arch treatment.

I can see the baffle plates and seal currently fitted to my car are a very poor fit. The intention is to remove and see if the issue can be resolved with Stuarts method of a seam sealer prior to purchasing new parts.

In respect of the void at the back of the headlight is there a baffle plate for this area, can't seem to see one in the moss catalogue or is it just reliance on a coating such as Dinitrol 4941.

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites

No baffle plates other than the one that Waldi srtarted this thread about, which is why fitting wheelarch liners is so important.

Even if you only intend to drive on dry days it is far better to prevent the build up of rubbish under the wings and forcing itself into all those small crevices. And you can dispense with the baffle plates.

Jerry

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.