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Clutch Slave Cylinder - replacing rubbers


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Hi 

Just wondering how to separate the piston from the filler block. See photo.

Started to change the fluid in the Clutch realised there was loads of crud  in the master reservoir, replacing the master and stripped the slave to see if any had found its way down, but none had.

Slave cylinder looks like its been replaced at some stage.  

20190914_182212.jpg

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I just put a new one on yesterday £30 from TR Shop 

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Dave,

you can lift it of carefully with a small blunt screwdriver. Make sure not to scratch the piston. Note the orientation of the seal, the “open side” should face inwards.

The new seal can be installed with some “brake grease”. Do not use normal grease.

First check the bore of the cylinder, they often have local corrosion where the water/moist “meets the oil”. If so, reject it or have it re-sleeved.

Waldi

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Hi Dave,

bleeding can be a bit difficult. I bled mine before I installed it on the GB, pushed the piston fully in, opened the vent nipple, and it was fine.

Waldi

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

Following on from above, just fitting a new clutch master cylinder, i'm not convinced the thread for the male pipe fitting is correct.  I'm sure the existing male union thread is 7/16 UNF,  which is not fitting into the new MC.  Could the MC have a metric thread.

MC is from Rimmers  TRW PMC133, cannot find anywhere where the type of thread is specified.

 

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I bought  sets of thread gauges largely because my TR and old Holden were built around the time industry converted to metric components and they are a mix of imperial and metric threaded parts. Even if a member gives you an answer you can't be sure it applies to your car, especially after 50 odd years of owner's fiddling.

My  recommendation would be get some thread gauges and check the threads yourself. Given that Triumph switched brake components from imperial to metric during the TR6's lifecycle it's quite on the cards you have a metric threaded MC.

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Given that the "dust seal" on the slave cylinder is not that effective at protecting the slave bore, I would have thought it a false economy to recycle a clutch slave.

When it fails replace and keep a set of seals (for emergency use) in the car in case i fails when you are away from home.

It's probably different for the master cylinder as they are less exposed to the elements and the cylinder less prone to wear and abrasion and when tey fail it's usually the seals that have degenerated.

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Thanks for your replies.

Perhaps investing in some thread gauges will confirm the new M/C spec.  I'm surprised that neither the supplier or manufacturer states what thread its female thread is?  Especially if Triumph changed to metric during TR6 production. I did buy a 10mm male union yesterday from a local motor factor, and that is far too loose.

The male union on the pipe measures .438 (major diameter) with a micrometer, which confirm its 7/16 inch.  

I think I will have the existing M/C resleeved as its a Girling, most likely the original.

I'm happy that replacing the seal on the slave cylinder is ok, the bore is in A1 condition, the dust cap in good condition and was still attached etc.  I don't think its that old it has 2009 stamped on it, although 10 years ago but its mileage is very low in this period.

 

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