rvwp Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 Hi Guys, Just started working on my boot lid and found some dodgy brazed in lower section covered by about 1/4 inch + filler!!. I could repair with a repro lower skin section but thinking maybe replace the boot lid? So, I'm looking for a possible replacement boot lid, either 4 or 4a, with or without support frame, no previous similar repairs, as a preferred option to fitting a repro panel which may or may not fit and end up still needing filler. Obviously all 50 year old boot lids will need some remedial work which is fine. Appreciate it if any body can help then PM me and we can take it from there. Regards Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 8, 2019 Report Share Posted September 8, 2019 Hi Rich, you will be lucky to find a very good lid with no rust and if you do you will then be very poor. 'If' the inner rib on your lid is still in reasonable condition then it is not too difficult to cut the rusty skin away and let in a new section. The Moss repair section is expensive and comes with the rib - haven;t a clue about its quality etc. if you do let in a new skin section try and make it as thin as possible (top to bottom height) as it is a curved section and large repair sections will need a lot more filler than thinner sections. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted September 8, 2019 Report Share Posted September 8, 2019 (edited) . Edited April 15, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 9, 2019 Report Share Posted September 9, 2019 Unless you can find a Californian/Arizona imported panel then theyre all going to be as bad as each other so repair what you have if possible, like Roger says try not to lose the curve. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted September 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2019 Thanks all for the advise. Will repair the original boot., that is what I expected to have to do anyway. Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted September 10, 2019 Report Share Posted September 10, 2019 Hi Rich ~ If you lived nearer to me I'd gladly do the repairs for you. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JPD Posted September 11, 2019 Report Share Posted September 11, 2019 Hi Rich, I went through the same thought process when I restored my 4A. My original boot lid was sort of ok, but had bad rust on the lower lip. I bought an original Stanpart repair panel (from Walter Petchey) to replace the lower section. When it actually came to it though, the guy who did my respray advised me to get a replacement boot lid as there were rust spots elsewhere too. I couldn't find an original so I bought a new one from Bastuck in Germany. This fitted really well, but the downside is that it is a thinner gauge steel than original. I do still have the unused Stanpart repair section which I was planning to sell - you can DM me if you're interested in going down that route. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted September 11, 2019 Report Share Posted September 11, 2019 Jeff, Check out your PMs sent message 2 hours ago Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted September 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2019 OK, nothing received so far, will check later. Off to Greece in the morning so will not be able to respond until after the 25th Sept. thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 11, 2019 Report Share Posted September 11, 2019 I've rebuilt three of these using beautiful repair panels made by a fellow forumite. The problem is that the repair area has very little curvature and what there is is mostly just in one direction. This makes the metal somewhat unstable and liable to warp when welded. Without the inner tube support the whole thing goes wobbly. I had mine clamped between two layers of steel strip but still got some ripples. Fortunately I could dolly these out OK. You could easily make a mess of this and finish up like the ocean waves. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 12, 2019 Report Share Posted September 12, 2019 (edited) 14 hours ago, AlanT said: I've rebuilt three of these using beautiful repair panels made by a fellow forumite. The problem is that the repair area has very little curvature and what there is is mostly just in one direction. This makes the metal somewhat unstable and liable to warp when welded. Without the inner tube support the whole thing goes wobbly. I had mine clamped between two layers of steel strip but still got some ripples. Fortunately I could dolly these out OK. You could easily make a mess of this and finish up like the ocean waves. Which is when you come across ones like this where they have tried to filler their way out of trouble! Stuart. Edited September 12, 2019 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted September 12, 2019 Report Share Posted September 12, 2019 ...Nice! Must of been a full can of easy 1 & a plaster's trowel for that load..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 12, 2019 Report Share Posted September 12, 2019 4 hours ago, Chilliman said: ...Nice! Must of been a full can of easy 1 & a plaster's trowel for that load..... It was deep enough to trip over! The boot lid weighed about the same as a 6 boot lid! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 And this was only spot-welded. I think the original pressing left a lot of stress in these. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 (edited) I have an new, original, unused Spanpart TR5 Bootlid, part no. 813650, still in brown primer, but the paper labels have gone. There is no damage but has a few light areas of surface rust. Any clue as to what price I could sell it for ? I tried to attach 3 photos but this page "paperclip" does not work. Thanks for advice Jack Wensum TR Group Edited November 27, 2019 by Jack Added 3 photos Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 19 minutes ago, Jack said: I have an new, original, unused Spanpart TR5 Bootlid, part no. 813650, still in brown primer, but the paper labels have gone. There is no damage but has a few light areas of surface rust. Any clue as to what price I could sell it for ? I tried to attach 3 photos but this page "paperclip" does not work. Thanks for advice Jack Wensum TR Group Funnily enough I was just discussing TR5 bootlids with Jeff Marks from Moss, when I rebuilt his 5 12 yrs ago his bootlid had been badly repaired and was essentially flat across the back and I managed to get an absolutely mint ex Californian boot lid from Walter Petchey and at the time I paid £325 for that. So draw your own conclusions from that. Moss current price for a repro is £860 or so. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 Hi Jack, if you are out to make a profit then why not go a little over the top and see what happens. £860 for a repro - then go for £1000 or even more. Most lids can be repaired and look very good externally. If somebody is desperate for a concourse lid then bingo you have a sale. A couple pf interesting things with your pics. I see that the ends of the internal rib is square cut. On many samples that I have seen these have an extended quarter round end piece to support the corners of the lid. There appears to be a a great deal pf surface rust on the internal rib. I would consider cleaning and re-primer. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 certainly more than the price written on it.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 David Ferry has been bringing TRs back from the USA - worth contacting him to see whether he has a reasonable secondhand lid. You can find him on this Forum. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 If " like new " is the objective, a couple of thou would be less than the cost of a metal finish repair. I've got one repair with waves on my driver, and when it goes in for a repaint it will be corrected but I won't want to know the cost specific to it. My concourse car has a rust/damage free lid which I snagged back in the last century. The discriminating viewer will always scrutinize the boot lid - maybe it's a gender thing! As it happens, my favourite body panel on the Michelotti TR is the rear valence . Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 With the depth of filler shown on those photos Stuart, would the boot lock actually offer much security?. If I recall, it's security is based around two pins on the boot handle slotting into the skin of the door. If that skin is soft filler then a slight pressure on opening the boot will force the lock to spin and the boot to open even when locked with the key. Or am I wrong? Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 40 minutes ago, PaulAnderson said: With the depth of filler shown on those photos Stuart, would the boot lock actually offer much security?. If I recall, it's security is based around two pins on the boot handle slotting into the skin of the door. If that skin is soft filler then a slight pressure on opening the boot will force the lock to spin and the boot to open even when locked with the key. Or am I wrong? Paul It locked OK as the filler was of the rock hard type! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 Brand new boot lid on classifieds and open to an offer. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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