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ChrisP

belt trouble

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Hi Chris and Waldi

I can absolutly see the issue on your car Chris and it's interesting that Waldi is aware its a common problem as I did not know about it at all cuz mine is not a problem.

I can get my fanbelt on and off without doing anything. It is tight and the tollerance is close but no prob.

But of course mine is no problem because i planned it all that way, lol. I was fully aware (not) that the reason engine mounts and gearbox are slotted was so the engine could be in the corrcet position to allow the fanbelt to be removed without moving the engine/GB combo.

Don't ya just love those designers thinking about long term maintenance issues.:D

Cheers

Keith

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I used a linked belt on a Fordson Major  E27N water pump decades ago because it was impossible to get a continuous belt past the fan blades/radiator but I'd have to question a linked belts ability to take load reversals in an engine going up and down from 750 to 6000 rpm through the gears.

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A friend down the road with a 6 has put new engine mounts on not long ago sounds like I need to do so as well and reset the engine position accordingly.

might have a compare with his to see how much my engine has dropped/ moved forward.

Add it to the to do list. 

Chris

 

 

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Just for reference, I took some dimensions:

My toothed belt measures: 10 mm width and 8 mm  height (crossection)

The smallest gap between rack and front engine pulley (at the inner part of the pulley) measures 8.0 mm (measured with a drill as caliper).

Do with the belt moved in sidewards, it was just doable on my car.

The engine/GB is installed backwards as much as possible. This is with new rubbers, with older engine rubbers, the gap will narrow a bit.

There may be differences between individual cars, since the gap is a resultant dimension from several fabrication tolerances.

Waldi

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Tom,

"The linked belts are for emergency 'get you home' use only"

Why do you say that? A genuine question  from me.  I have heard many times temporary only but I have used Fenner power twist without problems.

Is there a problem?

Regards,

Alan

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Hi Alan ~

Thank you for that.  I've never used the linked belt, only to fit it for measuring purposes. I doubt if there would be any problems with running it full time.

I just  wonder why Moss no longer list it?

Regards ~

Tom.

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Hi Waldi 

just checked mine, new belt measures same as yours but only 5mm clearance between rack and pulley. Job to get in there because of electric fan behind rad. 

Meeting up with our group tomorrow a few have 6s so can compare state of engine mount.

As I already have the new belt it will be fitted the old one looks ok but obviously been on a long time.

Chris.

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Another option to facilitate changing the belt is to put a jack under the main frame cross member at the front and lift the car slightly which will allow for removal of two of the bolts on either side of the tubular brace that is situated in front of the engine.  With two bolts removed and the weight on the jack it can then be rotated to create the clearance to either change the belt or position one in “storage” for later use.

of course, this wont correct worn mounts or anything like that... ;) .

c74

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Hi Chris,

it will be interesting to know the gap size in other cars. It is pretty easy with a set of drills. 

The best fix I think is to push the engine and GB as much rearwards as possible after releasing all bolts from the 3 supports, both on the chassis side and the engine/GB side.

I bought a good quality belt from my local automotive shop, not an unbranded one. 

If the alignment is ok, this should last for many years.

Waldi

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