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ChrisP

belt trouble

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Hi guys

Thought I would treat the 6 to a new belt bought at the show, silly me thought it would be an easy swop but the crank pulley is really tight to the cross member and steering rack below         it, not sure it will come off and new one on without damage to the belt. Anyone know if it will squeeze past before I get physical with it.

Thanks Chris.

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Hi ChrisP ~

It looks to me that you'll have to move the steering rack over!  I must say that this is a very bad design!

What does one do by the roadside??

Tom.

 

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Exactly Tom 

There was me thinking it would be an easily done service item but it will have to wait now.

Tightened up the old one and will tackle it another day.

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Hi Chris,

not too sure what the 6 looks like down there but it doesn't look right.

has the engine moved forward etc etc.

If all is as it should be then you will have to move the rack forwards. Not too difficult at home.

When you fit the new belt install another belt virtually n place but tie-wrap it around the rack - this is often done with the wide belt TR2 -4A engines.

Roger

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This is a known issue, and yes, poor design.

If you search this forum you will find more info.

During my rebuilt I loosened the engine and GB mounts a bit and pushed the engine rearwards, that did the trick.

Also, the belt has a high and low side and it is pretty robust so a pry bar between pulley and rack may be enough to push it through. Do not use excessive force, the pulley is rubber sandwiched.

Regards,

Waldi

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Jack and a piece of wood under the sump. Raise very gently until you can slip the belt through the gap. There should be enough give in the engine mountings which are probably due for renewal. 

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Thanks for suggestions and tips I will try Pete's idea first could well get enough movement on engine mounts but it will be after the weekend now .

I appreciate your help.

Chris

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Google for photos of "Gliederkeilriemen" , don't know the english word

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Both the engine mounts and gearbox are slotted for this reason,move them back and leave them there.

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2 hours ago, peejay4A said:

Jack and a piece of wood under the sump. Raise very gently until you can slip the belt through the gap. There should be enough give in the engine mountings which are probably due for renewal. 

+1

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39 minutes ago, ntc said:

Both the engine mounts and gearbox are slotted for this reason,move them back and leave them there.

That’s what I did Neil.

Cheers,

Waldi

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Who thought changing a belt could be so involved , moving the engine and gearbox back  :o . If it won’t go by jacking up the engine it will have to wait till later in the year when I investigate the gearbox oil leak. 

Chris.

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12 minutes ago, ChrisP said:

Who thought changing a belt could be so involved , moving the engine and gearbox back  :o . If it won’t go by jacking up the engine it will have to wait till later in the year when I investigate the gearbox oil leak. 

Chris.

It is a five minute job,your gearbox mount will be shot down to oil leak.Jack it up a then you may kill the engine mounts as well but what do I know :P  

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3 hours ago, ChrisP said:

Who thought changing a belt could be so involved , moving the engine and gearbox back  :o . If it won’t go by jacking up the engine it will have to wait till later in the year when I investigate the gearbox oil leak. 

Chris.

That's not what NTC is saying. Either the engine/gearbox mounts are shot or the power unit was installed incorrectly. It is not normally a problem to change the belt.

Check the mounts and replace as required, then move the engine/gearbox assembly to the correct position.

Jerry

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Loosening engine mounts to change a fan belt? Thats the sort of thing you would expect to have to do on a modern honda car along with needing a special tool...but surely not on a 50 year old Triumph?

 

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13 hours ago, Z320 said:

Google for photos of "Gliederkeilriemen" , don't know the english word

Yes, I agree that these are a great idea .....and for the roadside in the dark (when it is probably raining!) would be very very handy - Although they are a bit more expensive than a regular spare.

Unfortunately we havnt managed to come up with an explicit word for them, just the description!

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=356005&vat_inc=true&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0fqNzPaa5AIVA7DtCh0oXAQqEAQYASABEgKaCPD_BwE

I havn’t seen them offered at more general places, which may be why fewer people are aware that they are available.

........ Andy 

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It is the price why I never bought one and

because I use a Flennor 20X900 "teethed" and very elastic which never fails.

 

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Just now, Z320 said:

It is the price why I never bought one and

because I use a Flennor 20X900 "teethed" and very elastic which never fails.

 

you should not have said that   !!!!!!!

 

Roger

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Indeed I'm a rich man, own one,

and perhaps will test it as another "good morning test".

:rolleyes:

But it is some mm too wide, like a "22", if this is existing.

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Hi Chris ~

Moss used to sell these belts at one time but no longer it appears. I've got one which is really handy.

The belt can be fitted without having to undo any bolts etc. as it will stretch over the pulleys.

In your case, you can undo the belt and fit it around the pulleys easily.

Tom.

X - Copy.png

X.. - Copy.png

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Here is a place where you can get link belts (and other sorts) made to order.

https://store.lathes.co.uk/belts

Expensive, but I guess if ever they break (and you don't loose the belt flying off) you could replace the broken link with a new one. (ie order longer than you need in the first place.

(As a side note, the main site  http://www.lathes.co.uk/ lists interesting details of about every lathe ever made  going back to the days of Noah’s Ark.)

Charlie

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