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TwinCamJohn

Oil leak timing chain cover

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I'd love to read that the leak isn't related to a bent front engine plate 

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40 minutes ago, TwinCamJohn said:

How would that be bent?

Ive seen a few bent ones. Usually due to a front end collision. My 4a had one when I first had it and it always leaked a little oil until the engine was rebuilt a few years ago when it was discovered (it was only very slightly bent so not visually obvious and only discovered by using a straight edge) It had had a hard clump on the front before I bought it.

Stuart.

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Hi John,

Don't be fooled by the lack of oil around the pulley seal system as the air flow and fan make the oil go anywhere it likes. If you are having the apron off to get access to remove the radiator.

Don't ask about torquing up the crankshaft bolt and the nightmares of the shims no shims debate. i wish yoyu luck sorting it out but get in touch if you want the definitive seal.

Rod

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Rod, I cleaned everything up and with the car on the stands I ran the engine and saw the oil coming out of the bottom of the timing case gasket.

 I haven't seen the shims debate as up till now as that was someone else's problem. I'll take it all slowly over the winter. Well hopefully not all of the winter as that is a great time to be driving.

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13 hours ago, stuart said:

Ive seen a few bent ones. Usually due to a front end collision. My 4a had one when I first had it and it always leaked a little oil until the engine was rebuilt a few years ago when it was discovered (it was only very slightly bent so not visually obvious and only discovered by using a straight edge) It had had a hard clump on the front before I bought it.

Stuart.

Here's mine, bent a good 10 degrees. I drove it for ten years that way. The oil leak never seemed excessive.

post-7421-094786600%201286045422_thumb.jpg

Tom

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Well, the work has begun. the apron is off.

 

48865703687_1d04da064a_b.jpgP1050661 by john curtis, sur Flickr

 

Top tip. make sure all the bolts are out. It's a lot easier :rolleyes:

 

First thng is to get the radiator off for a repair. The bodge I did has lasted well, but this is an opportunity for getting it done properly.

48865508936_d1fcda8b36_b.jpgP1050672 by john curtis, sur Flickr

 

Access to the crankshaft nut was restricted so I loosened off the engine mounts and jacked it up.

I used the socket and bar against the chassis and flicked the starter and the nut was loose.

48864992543_b4a6bd5342_b.jpgP1050670 by john curtis, sur Flickr

The pulley is resisting and I can't get a three leg puller in. Have just ordered a two leg version and that will be here shortly

Have ordered another fitting kit for the electric fan as these had to be cut  to take it off the radiator.

https://www.revotec.com/acatalog/Fan-Pull-Through-Kit.html#aFPK01

More later

Edited by TwinCamJohn

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Hi john,

Did you get the details of the double lip seal I sent you, Highly recommend that you go for the Viton version.

I note that you have not removed the steering rack, I am sure that you will need to do this the allow the crankshaft bolt to be withdrawn and get access to the pulley. I am surprised that you need a puller but they are a little tight.

As regards the Easi sleeve issue these are available from different sources under different names and are at least half the cost of the GKN item or through Moss etc.

Try to check out agricultural suppliers or Engineer supplies, The Hayley group are the ones I used and they have outlets over the UK. Take the item in and they can supply. They come with the fitting collar and work exactly the same as GKN one.

Even if the pulley looks OK it is worth while fitting a sleeve as a belt and braces solution. used on Half shaft and crankshaft pulley to great effect. About £12.00 each.

Rod

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hello Rod. No details received; You asked me to contact you when I had removed the pulley and measured the shaft.

The crankshaft bolt came out with no problem. However, the pulley is resisting even with a puller.

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Does the LH foot of the engine mounting plate where it fits to the mount by the steering shaft look bent to any one else?

The crank pulley looks like it has two theraded holes in it for a pair of extractor bolts to fit into.  -  Be careful with a legged puller for fear of pulling the outer rim off the inner.

Like this thing that will also do a classic Mini clutch/flywheel.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27019/overview/

 

 

Peter W

balancer remover.jpg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT

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Firstly, there is no bend ! The steering mounts have been loosened to allow for jacking the front of the engine up.

Yes there are threaded holes but as you can see from this picture they are covered by the centre "piece" in the pulley. Thing is, it won't come off and I'm not sure what it is. If it's a thick washer then I should have been able to prise it off and I can't. Is it separate ? If not then I can't access the bolt holes.

I do have one of those "duck's foot devices but it is too big.

48872398131_8ea4f5aede_b.jpgP1050673 by john curtis, sur Flickr

48872452596_ab89e0d62f_b.jpgP1050675 by john curtis, sur Flickr

Edited by TwinCamJohn

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I have spoken to Moss and they say it is a flat washer. I really don't think it is, although they should know their parts !  In the second picture you can see that the internal depth of the "washer" is greater than the thickness you can see on the extérieure. So maybe it goes in side the pulley a little way. In any case it won't come off.

Any thoughts ?

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Hello John

Suggest you heat up the pulley with a blow lamp and as it cools run penetrating oil around the washer. Repeat this a few times. Also tap the washer with a hammer as it cools to try to shock the joint between the parts to help the oil get in there. I am told that diesel is also a good penetrating fluid but not tried it myself. It will most likely then suddenly come free and you will be left wondering why it was so hard to move in the first place.

Keith

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My 3A came with the Thin Belt conversion already fitted and what I believe to be an MGB crankshaft damper.

There was no washer as you have fitted except for a flat 'locking' washer.

I fitted a Racetorations crank damper and this came without any 'washer'. 

The damper on the right is the MGB one and the 'spacer' fits behind the damper.

Is your 'washer' a locking washer which has become distorted by over tightening?

See photo. of both my dampers showing all parts.

Tom.

DSCF0365.JPG

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I have tried tapping the washer round anti clockwise and also bent an old screwdriver to get in behind it. Still nothing. have retired for the night now having given all a good soaking with WD40.

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Just as a matter of interest - whereabouts are you locating the centre pin of your new two leg puller?

I would have thought that if you re-fitted the main bolt & screwed it in all the way & then back it off a few mm, put the centre pin of your puller against the head of the bolt & tighten a little the whole lot - pulley & washer (or whatever it is) would slide off together without any great effort?

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When I did this operation a few years back I moved the rack, not hard, and removed the cross member so I could get good access. I used a three leg puller with the centre against the previously loosened crank bolt. Tightened up the puller bolt as much as I dared, then hit the end of the puller bolt with a lump hammer, pop, the pulley came off. 

Hope you get it off one way or another.

Mick

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